Cradle R&R w/o drivetrain drop? (Page 1/1)
DaveB1701 DEC 03, 04:20 PM
'87 GT 5-speed. Rotting cradle front bushing mounts, as advised by the shop that replaced my exhaust and clutch. Purchased a relatively clean and solid cradle from a NV salvage yard and will be taking to a shop for media blasting and powder coating during the winter. New poly bushing set, bolts, and the monster washers on order. Q - can a well-equipped shop suspend the engine/tranny, pull the axles, disconnect the struts & brake cables, and replace the cradle, or must the whole pile be yanked?

Been tearing through Forum articles and can't find a definitive solution...

Thanks.
Mike in Sydney DEC 03, 04:30 PM
Almost anything is possible BUT I wouldn’t do it. Dropping the cradle is not that hard. The instructions and details can be found in the archives.
jelly2m8 DEC 03, 04:45 PM
Ya you can easily drop the cradle while leaving the drivetrain in place with a proper engine hanging rig, GM actually made a specific one for Fiero's back in the day for the dealerships. It basically spans from one side strut tower to the forward upper frame rail on the other side. Minimal parts removal to place the rig.

I built mine years ago with square tubing and flat plate.

https://www.fierostore.com/.../Default.aspx?Id=300

[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 12-03-2025).]

Dennis LaGrua DEC 03, 04:51 PM
Some owners that have replaced the automatic transmission have done so by firmly holding the powertrain in place with a engine support bar and then removing and replacing the cradle. Point is that it has been done and can be done but with the utmost care. That is how the transmission shops do it. I would only attempt this work if the powertrain is absolutely secured firmly in place with the proper support bar. There are most likely some posts in the archives that show this.
OOPs spoke too soon see above.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 12-03-2025).]

fieroguru DEC 03, 05:15 PM
That is my preferred method for transmission work. I built mine for the LS4/F40 application. The side plates lock into existing holes in the top of the strut tower, rests on the top of the frame rails, then when the bar is bolted in place, everything is locked into position.





cvxjet DEC 03, 06:24 PM
I have changed transmissions and clutches , and also swapped out cradle using an engine support...they can be unstable, if used improperly, so I did some mods and added some stuff....Here are some pics and diagrams;













[This message has been edited by cvxjet (edited 12-03-2025).]

cartercarbaficionado DEC 03, 07:11 PM

quote
Originally posted by DaveB1701:

'87 GT 5-speed. Rotting cradle front bushing mounts, as advised by the shop that replaced my exhaust and clutch. Purchased a relatively clean and solid cradle from a NV salvage yard and will be taking to a shop for media blasting and powder coating during the winter. New poly bushing set, bolts, and the monster washers on order. Q - can a well-equipped shop suspend the engine/tranny, pull the axles, disconnect the struts & brake cables, and replace the cradle, or must the whole pile be yanked?

Been tearing through Forum articles and can't find a definitive solution...

Thanks.


https://www.harborfreight.c...port-bar-96524.html, they need to make sure they dont crush the brake booster tube or break the dist cap with the chains on this. ive used it when i dropped my 88s cradle to swap my 86 4 speed muncie to a 5 speed getrag and to do some minor repairs to my cooling tubes, i didnt have to disconnect anything but the mounts and brake calipers and struts, i ran a bungie through the caliper and around it a few times before stuffing the hook into a bolt hole for the strut and it worked quite well.
also DO NOT trust them to use that tool correctly. show them it needs to be on the strut towers and the threads need to have rubber caps incase someone tries to close the decklid or attempts to set it on the vents, safer to be anal than having to find parts and spending money when it was fine before
82-T/A [At Work] DEC 03, 07:23 PM
I didn't see it mentioned, but I'd also replace the motor mount and transmission mount while it's being done.

You're having a shop do this? Is it just a normal repair shop, or is it something that specializes in older cars? Do you trust them? I only ask because I just don't trust most repair shops.