New PISA dash , new gauges, is an led engine light an issue? + Rotor Cap issue (Page 1/1)
jrr NOV 21, 04:50 PM

I have a 1988 Original MERA. Was running great until I got stuck, (first time in over 20+ years), and needed a tow. Turned out to be a bad distributor coil. After fighting to reassemble the old distributor I installed a new aftermarket complete distributor with new coil and ignition module. Jumped the OBD port and timed it @10 degrees. Starts and idles perfectly but runs poorly. Hesitates and stalls when stopped. New Cap Rotor Wires and plugs. There is an exhaust leak on the lower pipe from the head. This is in process of being replaced this weekend. I also just completed a full install of a PISA dash with aftermarket gauges. (Not VDO). I think I read somewhere the engine service light has to be incandescent and not LED? Is this true? Can the LED service light cause problems? Also I am eating the distributor cap contact on the inside top. I have tried to knock down the rotor as low as possible. After a few weeks I am noticing the contact inside on the top of the cap is worn down and shavings are inside the cap. I have a new cap on now and decided to use the old rotor. Any thoughts on this too would be greatly appreciated.. Thank you all.
cartercarbaficionado NOV 21, 05:16 PM

quote
Originally posted by jrr:


I have a 1988 Original MERA. Was running great until I got stuck, (first time in over 20+ years), and needed a tow. Turned out to be a bad distributor coil. After fighting to reassemble the old distributor I installed a new aftermarket complete distributor with new coil and ignition module. Jumped the OBD port and timed it @10 degrees. Starts and idles perfectly but runs poorly. Hesitates and stalls when stopped. New Cap Rotor Wires and plugs. There is an exhaust leak on the lower pipe from the head. This is in process of being replaced this weekend. I also just completed a full install of a PISA dash with aftermarket gauges. (Not VDO). I think I read somewhere the engine service light has to be incandescent and not LED? Is this true? Can the LED service light cause problems? Also I am eating the distributor cap contact on the inside top. I have tried to knock down the rotor as low as possible. After a few weeks I am noticing the contact inside on the top of the cap is worn down and shavings are inside the cap. I have a new cap on now and decided to use the old rotor. Any thoughts on this too would be greatly appreciated.. Thank you all.


1. very pretty car
2. the aftermarket distibutors are crap. ive been through a few and never got a good one, i would try the old ignition control module first and if it is eating the cap then you got a bad cap or its bolted on wrong (yes its possible to get it slightly **** -eyed on the dist)
3. yeah i wouldnt put leds in the check engine light but the rest of it sure. i dont know if it causes problems but better safe than sorry
Vintage-Nut NOV 21, 10:43 PM

quote
Turned out to be a bad distributor coil. After fighting to reassemble the old distributor I installed a new aftermarket complete distributor with new coil and ignition module. / Starts and idles perfectly but runs poorly. Hesitates and stalls when stopped.



I'm a genuine General Motors guy and rebuilt my Fiero V6 Distributor with 'the best' than an aftermarket unit...


I got RockAuto's last main shaft under a 'wholesaler closeout' which had been discontinued; they're on eBay now at around $50 and UP...

Many think that the 'star' aftermarket distributor is better; but to me, ditch the aftermarket ignition control module and pick-up coil.
Ignition Control Module / GM 19179578
Pick-Up Coil / GM 10495089

Perhaps a genuine GM rotor too / GM 10497452

On the Distributor Cap - look for brass terminals as they're more reliable and durable than aluminum terminals.

[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 11-23-2025).]

Patrick NOV 22, 01:14 AM

quote
Originally posted by jrr:

I think I read somewhere the engine service light has to be incandescent and not LED? Is this true? Can the LED service light cause problems?



No, it's the charging indicator light that needs to be incandescent.
Raydar NOV 22, 10:14 AM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

No, it's the charging indicator light that needs to be incandescent.




This! You beat me to it.
The bulb is used as part of the "turn-on" circuit.
Dennis LaGrua NOV 25, 10:20 AM

quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

This! You beat me to it.
The bulb is used as part of the "turn-on" circuit.



Specifically part of the alternator turn on circuit. If that bulb burns out the alternator stops charging the battery, ,

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