No Start / No Crank With Clunking Sound (Page 1/2)
Noah3.0 MAR 15, 11:35 PM
Hi all,

I have an '88 GT 5 speed that I finished a flywheel + clutch job on, along with replacing the starter with a CarQuest remanufactured unit. After getting everything back together, I tried starting it, but no dice. Pushing in the clutch and turning the key to crank causes a single "clunk" sound, and then another "clunk" when I release the key.

Not sure if this is relevant, but if I turn the key without the clutch pedal depressed, the two clunks are quieter.

-Battery is brand new
-Neutral safety switch is connected
-Starter shims were measured out using Ogre's 1/8" drill bit trick, so I don't think I'm running into clearance issues between the pinion and flywheel

If anyone has any ideas it would be greatly appreciated
Patrick MAR 16, 12:38 AM

quote
Originally posted by Noah3.0:

Not sure if this is relevant, but if I turn the key without the clutch pedal depressed, the two clunks are quieter.

-Neutral safety switch is connected



There shouldn't be any "clunks" at all coming from the engine/transmission in this situation if the safety switch is functioning... (but you should hear the fuel pump prime for two seconds when the ignition key is turned to Run).

Has the shifter been adjusted properly, and is the transmission actually in Neutral when you're trying to start the engine?

From your description... I would guess that your clutch isn't being disengaged, and your transmission is still in gear.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-16-2025).]

cartercarbaficionado MAR 16, 01:22 AM

quote
Originally posted by Noah3.0:

Hi all,

I have an '88 GT 5 speed that I finished a flywheel + clutch job on, along with replacing the starter with a CarQuest remanufactured unit. After getting everything back together, I tried starting it, but no dice. Pushing in the clutch and turning the key to crank causes a single "clunk" sound, and then another "clunk" when I release the key.

Not sure if this is relevant, but if I turn the key without the clutch pedal depressed, the two clunks are quieter.

-Battery is brand new
-Neutral safety switch is connected
-Starter shims were measured out using Ogre's 1/8" drill bit trick, so I don't think I'm running into clearance issues between the pinion and flywheel

If anyone has any ideas it would be greatly appreciated


try the old starter. it sounds to me like the starter motor isn't working but the bendix is
marc-alan MAR 16, 07:06 AM
New starter may need to be shimmed
Filben MAR 16, 10:01 AM
Sounds like the starter doesn't work. Or your engine/flywheel/trans combo is binding and locked. See if you can rotate the engine by hand with a wrench. If you can't you messed up the clutch somehow or the trans is in gear and the linkage is messed up. If the engine turns freely then I would pull the starter and test to make sure it actually works. Reman starters/alternators from parts stores are notorious for not working. Last alternator I bought didn't work, had to buy a brand new one and returned the dead reman.
Noah3.0 MAR 17, 10:23 PM
I did some probing and it does in fact look like the starter is dead, I couldn't get it to spin even when I manually put 12V across it. At least it's got a warranty Thank you for the replies!
Patrick MAR 17, 11:14 PM

quote
Originally posted by Noah3.0:

I did some probing and it does in fact look like the starter is dead...



That doesn't explain why you're hearing "clunks" when the key is turned without the clutch pedal being depressed.
82-T/A [At Work] MAR 18, 08:19 AM
The big concern I have is that (as Filben said) your clutch might be binding. I've seen situations where the clutch pack (clutch disc and clutch carrier?) are too big for the engine / transmission combination, yet are still being advertised as working for a Fiero. I don't have time to search for the thread here, but the culprit ended up being that the rivets that hold the clutch pack together were huge, and they rubbed against the transmission bell-housing on the inside, basically destroying it and the transmission aluminum webbing inside the casing.

I would replace the starter, but then I'd try to crank the engine with the fuel pump disabled... just to see how the engine turns. It should be smooth, and you shouldn't hear ANY clunking at all, as Patrick said.
Dennis LaGrua MAR 18, 10:55 AM

quote
Originally posted by marc-alan:

New starter may need to be shimmed



A new starter that doesn't have the correct shims when replaced with make a grinding noise and it some cases will lock up. You can buy a package of starter shims at your local auto store. Dorman makes them. If you replaced the clutch and you are not in gear the transmission should free wheel with no binding when starting,
You can check for starter bind by painting the starter gear before you install the starter. Prussian blue fitting compound by Permatix is recommended.. Its nondrying and can be wiped clean after the test. Ordinary latex paint can work but may be harder to remove. This will show how the starter gear is engaging.

------------------
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Patrick MAR 18, 12:57 PM

quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:

It should be smooth, and you shouldn't hear ANY clunking at all, as Patrick said.



The point I've been trying to make (with apparently no success) is that other than the fuel pump priming for two seconds, there should not be any other sound at all (clunking or otherwise) when the key is turned with the clutch not depressed. The clutch safety switch should be preventing any power from getting to the solenoid/starter.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-18-2025).]