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| Sparkly oil. (Page 1/1) |
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LS4FieroGuy
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FEB 18, 06:31 PM
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So I've got a 1988 2.5 automatic. And just today when I opened up the engine I found A LOT of aluminum shavings. My main question is what are the possible culprits of the sparkles? ------------------
Joshua Seeger
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olejoedad
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FEB 18, 06:33 PM
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Patrick
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FEB 18, 07:58 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by LS4FieroGuy:
I found A LOT of aluminum shavings
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Aluminum? So they don't stick to a magnet? 
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LS4FieroGuy
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FEB 18, 08:00 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
Aluminum? So they don't stick to a magnet?
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Yes. Even putting a magnet in the very sparkly oil it comes out with no magnetic material on it.
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82-T/A [At Work]
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FEB 18, 08:08 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by LS4FieroGuy:
So I've got a 1988 2.5 automatic. And just today when I opened up the engine I found A LOT of aluminum shavings. My main question is what are the possible culprits of the sparkles?
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Like he said, the only thing in the Iron Duke engine that's aluminized that I'm aware of... are the crank and rod bearings. Do you have a picture? How does the engine sound?
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LS4FieroGuy
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FEB 18, 08:17 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:
Like he said, the only thing in the Iron Duke engine that's aluminized that I'm aware of... are the crank and rod bearings. Do you have a picture? How does the engine sound? |
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I don't have any pics but I did find a few small chunks among the sparkles. It sounded like grinding gears over 3k rpm under load. And aren't the pistons aluminum?
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sleek fiero
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FEB 18, 09:02 PM
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Good chance of it coming from pistons destroying themselves.
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LS4FieroGuy
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FEB 18, 09:38 PM
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So it sounds like I might need to remove the engine. Should I go from the top or the rusty bottom? It's an 88 2.5 Auto.
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cartercarbaficionado
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FEB 18, 11:47 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by LS4FieroGuy:
So it sounds like I might need to remove the engine. Should I go from the top or the rusty bottom? It's an 88 2.5 Auto. |
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either works honestly. top means you remove the decklid and unbolt the engine and trans and just pull em both out at a angle just like a 80s celica. you can leave the transmission in with a automatic at least since we've done it 4 times (i broke the nut off in the body for the subframe so we are kinda forced to)
be careful of the plastic oil pan (insert? the filter is there and if you break it its expensive)
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82-T/A [At Work]
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FEB 19, 07:49 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by LS4FieroGuy:
So it sounds like I might need to remove the engine. Should I go from the top or the rusty bottom? It's an 88 2.5 Auto. |
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I've removed a V6 from the top before... it wasn't impossible, but the only problem is that it's kind of a pain in the butt. Before you pull the motor out, you have to disconnect everything from the engine with it still in the car before you can pull it out (in order to get the clearance). And then... when you want to re-install the motor, you generally have to (again) re-install everything back onto the motor with the motor already in the car.
It's much, MUCH easier to build up the motor and re-attach everything onto the engine with the motor out of the car, and then being installed from the bottom. With the motor installed in the bottom, you can literally have the entire engine assembled with everything on it except (dog bone, transmission cables, main harness to firewall, air cleaner).
My daughter recently did this in her Fiero. If it helps, you can watch the entire engine tear down, planning, and rebuild in this playlist: https://www.youtube.com/wat...XZGhm5HAEHnepUeZxR5K
This is the specific video where she removed the engine from the car. Note, she used an engine hoist on the rear bumper (she removed the bumper cover), which allowed her to get a lot of clearance for the engine hoist's legs, and she was able to easily roll the engine cradle out the back.
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