Rear axle nuts stuck (Page 1/1)
saving_rossi FEB 13, 08:48 PM
Important context: the cradle is separated from the car, sitting on rolling dollys. I am trying to get my CV axles off. I do not need to preserve the CV axles or the transmission.

The axle nuts both look new. The stud it sits on also looks new. No rust. I have used cheater bars, attempted to use a dremel (the bit wasn’t small enough to cut through it), and used some heat from a torch (but not enough to weld it). I have an impact but it doesn’t do much.

I’m not sure what to do here. When I used the cheater bar I had to stand on the spindle assembly to keep it from moving, and I just ate **** . Does anyone have any ideas?
cartercarbaficionado FEB 13, 10:17 PM

quote
Originally posted by saving_rossi:

Important context: the cradle is separated from the car, sitting on rolling dollys. I am trying to get my CV axles off. I do not need to preserve the CV axles or the transmission.

The axle nuts both look new. The stud it sits on also looks new. No rust. I have used cheater bars, attempted to use a dremel (the bit wasn’t small enough to cut through it), and used some heat from a torch (but not enough to weld it). I have an impact but it doesn’t do much.

I’m not sure what to do here. When I used the cheater bar I had to stand on the spindle assembly to keep it from moving, and I just ate **** . Does anyone have any ideas?


its torqued to over 200 ftlbs. when it sits for a week it becomes more like 500. you need a high torque dewalt or a earthquake extreme at 150 psi with 3/8s hose.
best advice is to jam the transmission in reverse and let the impact sit on there after 5 heat cycles of the nut (smoking not redhot). if that works for a completely rusted and round axle nut in a field you should be able to get thst off.
saving_rossi FEB 14, 01:03 AM

quote
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:

its torqued to over 200 ftlbs. when it sits for a week it becomes more like 500. you need a high torque dewalt or a earthquake extreme at 150 psi with 3/8s hose.
best advice is to jam the transmission in reverse and let the impact sit on there after 5 heat cycles of the nut (smoking not redhot). if that works for a completely rusted and round axle nut in a field you should be able to get thst off.



It’s been sitting for about 3 months now. (Not lazy just in college)

Thank you, I will try this. For now I’m trying to get the engine detached without moving the transmission. Not sure it will work but I might as well try
cartercarbaficionado FEB 14, 03:59 AM

quote
Originally posted by saving_rossi:


It’s been sitting for about 3 months now. (Not lazy just in college)

Thank you, I will try this. For now I’m trying to get the engine detached without moving the transmission. Not sure it will work but I might as well try


i havent touched mine for the last 4 so im not gonna get you on about it. if you just want the engine and trans off just pry the axles out of the trans (undo the tie rods on the rear) and the whole assembly will come off after the 4 nuts are removed
saving_rossi FEB 14, 04:26 PM

quote
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:

i havent touched mine for the last 4 so im not gonna get you on about it. if you just want the engine and trans off just pry the axles out of the trans (undo the tie rods on the rear) and the whole assembly will come off after the 4 nuts are removed



I thought about that, I’m just trying not to get tranny fluid all over the driveway. Last time I tried to change the fluid I discovered I do not have a pan big enough for all that.

They overfilled it by about 4 quarts and ..no drain bolt. My idea was to just have the transmission with its axles still in it and that way the fluid draining could be more controlled. It’s also snowing out right now so I can’t discretely dump it in the dirt
cliffw FEB 16, 02:13 PM

quote
Originally posted by saving_rossi:
I thought about that, I’m just trying not to get tranny fluid all over the driveway. Last time I tried to change the fluid I discovered I do not have a pan big enough for all that.

They overfilled it by about 4 quarts and ..no drain bolt. My idea was to just have the transmission with its axles still in it and that way the fluid draining could be more controlled. It’s also snowing out right now so I can’t discretely dump it in the dirt



My 99 Ford P/U Super Duty with the 7.3 diesel takes 15 quarts of oil for an oil change. Auto Zone makes a good one which holds 16 quarts. Low profile and a carry handle.

https://www.autozone.com/sh...chText=oil+drain+pan

By the way, if you spray your driveway with a water hose, oil will not sink in or stain it. You might need a wet vac if you can't move the fluid to a lessor to a less important area.
Dennis LaGrua FEB 26, 05:30 AM
oil extractor

To drain a transmission or engine of oil you van do it with a oil change pump that has a tube that fits down the dip stick tube. You can get over 95% of the oil out that way.


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[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 02-26-2025).]