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      | Ok to use heat on brake valves? (Page 1/1) | 
     
  
    
      
        
          
      
        
          
             
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              gregr75
            
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              JUN 03,  12:47 PM
            
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             I am in the middle of redoing all my brake lines with TFS stainless kit. The old nut fittings are coming apart nicely with a torch followed by a shock of pb blaster. But im not sure if its ok to use heat on the 3 way valve in back and the proportioning valve up front? or whatever you call it. i know the master cylinder you cant because there are o rings etc. i dont know if these valves have o rings too. 
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              pmbrunelle
            
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              JUN 03,  12:54 PM
            
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            The tee in the rear is just a block of metal, so you can use heat.
  The combination valve up front has rubber. Probably you should strip off the plastic/rubber components before applying heat to it.
  See Ogre's Cave for a section view of the combination valve.
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              gregr75
            
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              JUN 03,  01:01 PM
            
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            Thank you sir! I am was literally in my garage wondering what to do
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              theogre
            
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              JUN 03,  04:15 PM
            
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            ⚠️  Warning: Do Not heat the combi valve.
  That has plastic and rubber In It.------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.   (Jurassic Park)
  The Ogre's Fiero Cave 
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              jelly2m8
            
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              JUN 05,  02:47 PM
            
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             When replacing old brake tubing, just cut the tubing off flush with the flare nut, use a 6 point socket and a ratchet, support the Tee and / or the valve with a wrench of proper size or an adjustable wrench and it will all come apart fairly easily.
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              Dennis LaGrua
            
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              JUN 05,  06:32 PM
            
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            Good tips here but I'd like to add another. To remove the flare nut fitting I spray with PB Blaster and let it sit. If it wont come off with a flare nut wrench I'll grab onto it with a small adjustable Stilson wrench (adjustable pipe wrench). It may distort the flare nut just a bit but the fitting usually comes off and can be re-used and re-tightened but if the line breaks then Jelly2m8's technique may be the only option.    ------------------     " THE BLACK PARALYZER"   -87GT 3800SC Series III engine,  custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.             "THE COLUSSUS"  87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L  Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H  " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "  
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