Trunk mounted battery fusable link size (Page 2/3)
gatorfrey JAN 18, 09:39 AM
There is a junction block,from what I remember, for the positive side.
In other words, battery terminal at the battery end, and the other end ties in where the original battery did.
pmbrunelle JAN 18, 11:56 AM
Normally there is a difference of 4 AWG between a fusible link and the wire it protects.

So, if you have a 2 AWG wire, the fusible link that protects it would be 6 AWG.
gatorfrey JAN 18, 01:15 PM
I saw that.
Essentially, you are right.
When I got all up in Amazon, looking at fusible links, I found some cool housings that hold "fusible links", that are high amp fuses. I kinda like that idea, and it is an industry standard sizes, so amp size can be interchanged.

I will start with 150 amp, and go to 200 amp if that does not get it.
I also decided to go heavy duty, like I did the first GT, and go with 0/1 welding cable.
eti engineer JAN 18, 01:44 PM

quote
Originally posted by gatorfrey:

There is a junction block,from what I remember, for the positive side.
In other words, battery terminal at the battery end, and the other end ties in where the original battery did.



Yeah, I was in that area not very long ago. I will see if I have some pix of it and get back to you. Are you asking about the stud size where the conductor connects so you can get the right ring terminal?
eti engineer JAN 18, 02:06 PM

quote
Originally posted by gatorfrey:

I think I will try 150 amp for now, on the link.And keep spare 200 amp, if I upgrade the alternator,
Anybody remember what size terminal rings go on the cable at the back of the car ?
I see 3/8, 5/16, and 1/2 inch. I would like to attach at the same point the old cable went to.



I looked at mine, as I have no available pictures for that area. My positive cable is a molded terminal with the large conductor going to the starter, and the #8AWG wire both, coming out of the battery connection terminal. The other end of the smaller wire goes to a terminal block as you say. Since the battery is a side terminal type, it's not like a post battery where they make connectors that allow for connecting other conductors. This is the first side terminal car I have owned, so I don't know what is available. I am sure they make one that is like the Fiero original, though, where the positive terminal has one or more extra smaller wires connected in the molding and they already have ring terminals on the other end.
gatorfrey JAN 18, 03:32 PM
Yes, the ring terminals.
I cannot be down long once I raise it up on stands.
Appreciate it.
Spoon JAN 22, 09:42 PM

quote
Originally posted by gatorfrey:

I mounted another V8 Archie battery tray in the front of my second GT Fiero.
Last time, I ran two #2 welding cables all the way to the back. Never had an issue. But, in the back of my mind, I could see a short going badly wrong if the cables were compromised.
So, this time, I would like to do a fusible link at the battery. But I am not sure what size link to use.
Anyone out there know?
Thanks

Wayne



Why not run the cables from the front and thru the car interior under the carpet. Pontiac Bonneville did it that way and they even had the battery under the rear passenger seat driver side. You could just continue thru the rear firewall to the engine. As far as fuses I used a resettable circuit breaker of the appropriate rating up front near the battery. It can be used to protect against short circuits and overloads and as an manual on-off switch by simply pushing a button.. The one I installed is the type used for boaters so it can handle the environment just in case. They come in various trip ratings too and are inexpensive. I don't have a pic handy or I'd post it.

ps: Looking at whats available now makes the concept of a Fuseable Link breath-taking. The last thing a Fiero owner needs is the sign of smoke bellowing from the engine compartment due to a F/L. That could be a frightening experience followed by a sigh of relief.

Spoon

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"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

theogre JAN 23, 12:43 AM
⚠️ Warning: Do not use a Breaker as a Switch.
Most Breakers will have problems because is Not Made to be a Switch. More so w/ DC circuits.
Even with no load, most wear out faster as you move them.

Plus Most Switch, Breaker and Relay Label Ratings are AC rating. DC at same Amps can burn or weld contacts Fast. Faster if loads are Inductive controlling motors etc.

Install outside of cabin means needs to handle a low of dirt and water. Finding a "water proof" breaker cost more.

Car Stater relays, on the starter like OE GM or "Ford Type" above, are have very big heavy contacts and still burn some as normal operation. Is why many use a disk that moves to prevent major burning.

Even on AC, fools use Breakers as Switches and wonder why have to replace them often at minimum.
Most use standard wall light switches at home and small business to control motors, light ballast, and burn the switches and have to replace then often too.

Fusible Links done right won't blow w/o an overload.
If you don't want links, use big fuses made for automotive use. But this adds more joints and often done wrong means problems cause Nuisance blown fuse, low volts to fires.
Spoon JAN 23, 10:08 PM
theorge, I knew you'd chime in with interesting points which are always welcome. I'm familiar with the do's and don't's and with Fiero's we're always tempted to alter the factory design hopefully for the better.
The link below show a similar breaker that I'm using. They come in various amp ratings and are advertised as water-proof however I installed mine in the front compartment which is dry. Designed for marine use I'd expect they can handle brackish waters, etc.
My experience with home circuit breakers is they all seem to fail-safe or open. I believe these fail the same.

https://images-na.ssl-image...dVaL._AC_SL1000_.jpg

Getting late, gotta go,

Spoon


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"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

gatorfrey JAN 26, 11:52 AM
So,
On the engine end of running cables from the trunk to the back,as I remember it (20 years ago I did the first one), the main cable went straight to the starter. I seem to recall I used a heavy, but lesser cable, from the same starter mounting point, to a spot the factory had originally tied into the vehicle for everything else.
As I said, when I lift her up to put all this on, it needs to be with the surprises that will keep me down. It is my daily.
So I will clamp and solder a connector on that end of the cable, and run it, tie and dress it off, and cut the battery end to fit,
What size ring/loop connector fits the starter ?? Is it 3/8?, or smaller? Anybody with a factory positive cable laying around that could check the sizes of the little cable,and the starter cable ends that fit the car ?

[This message has been edited by gatorfrey (edited 01-26-2022).]