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Real, PROPER clutch adjustment? (Page 1/1) |
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CSM842M4
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NOV 27, 12:15 PM
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Every time I have to do anything to any of our Fiero's for the first time and have to refer to my Chilton's manual, I am reminded of just how inadequate it really is. This time, it's the clutch on my wife's '86 4-cylinder 5-speed. Master and slave cylinders are new, bled to within an inch of their lives, and I have twisted all the slack out of both pushrods. However, it still seems as though there should be a more complete disengagement of the clutch when the pedal is down, especially when shifting into 5th or Reverse. And that cursed book says, more or less, that since the clutch is hydraulically actuated, there is no adjustment necessary or possible. To which I say "Balderdash!", whatever that means. So, what is the actual correct adjustment procedure to ensure a complete disengagement? Any and all input... Thanks in advance - Chris
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fierosound
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NOV 27, 04:49 PM
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Skybax
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NOV 27, 06:28 PM
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Dennis LaGrua
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NOV 28, 05:01 PM
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If your Fiero has the aluminum clutch pedal assembly chances are that it has bent. Also the bleeding process on the manual cars is very critical. I've had good luck using the Performance Tool brake bleeder. There is no adjustment on the factory setup. ------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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theogre
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NOV 28, 10:48 PM
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Unless have system defects like bent pedal problem above...
Hydraulic Clutches for 90+% cars and most trunks are Not adjustable. System will self adjust sim to Brake systems.
Another common defect is bent arm between slave and pivot rod. Some were weak from GM but others can bend if pivot rod, throw-out bearing and/or other parts are binding.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 11-28-2021).]
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Blacktree
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NOV 29, 10:48 AM
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In this regard, the Chilton's manual is actually correct. The clutch hydraulic system is not adjustable. It should be able to self-adjust, to an extent. But it's a very small extent. Worn or damaged parts can easily take it beyond its ability to self-adjust. That includes the clutch pedal arm, and the slave cylinder actuator arm, as mentioned above. Those are both common failure points.
For many of us, those parts started failing back in the 1990s. So if your car hung in there until 2021, you're pretty lucky.
Some Fieros came with a clutch pedal arm made of aluminum. Those are notorious for bending, and causing clutch issues. Later models had steel pedal arms. IIRC there are also aftermarket parts available. Also, some Fieros came with a slave cylinder actuator arm made from stamped sheet metal. Those are notorious for cracking or bending. The stamped part was replaced with a solid cast metal part. Those are also available OEM or aftermarket.
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ZaraSpOOk
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NOV 29, 05:50 PM
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quote | Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:
If your Fiero has the aluminum clutch pedal assembly chances are that it has bent.
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if the system is properly bled and you aren't getting enough movement, I'd put my effort (and money) on the peddle before the adjustable banjo I've now owned my 88 highly desirable (sic) Getrag 33 years, bled it countless times, the only new part has been a new clutch peddle (why do you suppose the Fiero Store sells those things and not a brake peddle?) there is a reason
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Will
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NOV 29, 08:17 PM
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quote | Originally posted by CSM842M4: And that cursed book says, more or less, that since the clutch is hydraulically actuated, there is no adjustment necessary or possible. To which I say "Balderdash!", whatever that means. |
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As noted above, if the hydraulics are in good order and all the metal is straight, the book is exactly right about that.
Are your master cylinder & slave/follower cylinder anything other than Rodney Dickman's cast aluminum units or GM NOS fabbed steel units? A few years back, anything other than these two is hot garbage and will fail and cause problems within tens of miles... not joking. Looking at RockAuto... *maybe* that's gotten better, but I'm not holding my breath.
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skywurz
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NOV 29, 08:37 PM
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Did you by chance do a v6 clutch? I ask because i started having this similar issue after swapping my l4 to a v6 clutch.
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