Fuel Tank, Pump and sender (Page 1/1)
FormulaGT OCT 31, 06:30 PM
Relatively NEW to me Project '88 GT. Purchased over the Summer and has not ran in about 13 years. Pulled the fuel tank last weekend. Cut all or most of the rubber hoses to drop the tank as all seemed original and replacement would be wise while exposed at little cost. What fuel is left in the tank (about 3-4 gallons) smells disgusting. Inside fuel tank is tons of debris, sediment and a touch of rust. The fuel sender/pump assembly is pretty disgusting as well. I already have a new fuel pump on the way but it looks like I might be in for a new sender too (see pic). My question is, How do I clean the fuel tank and can I salvage my sender assembly or is the Fiero Store replacement necessary? Thanks
FormulaGT OCT 31, 06:34 PM
BTW, the float arm is super stiff but will move under pressure.
Mike in Sydney OCT 31, 07:11 PM
Omitted - double post.

[This message has been edited by Mike in Sydney (edited 10-31-2021).]

Mike in Sydney OCT 31, 07:23 PM
IMO, the best way to completely remove rust from a fuel tank is to do it by electrolysis. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTKHZSKuJtQ) It gets rid of the rust in the seams as well as the rust on the sides. Watch the you tube video. I've used it on several motorcycle tanks and they come out brilliantly. You can use it on larger tanks, too. Keep cleaning the displaced rust from the electrode every 12 hours or so (watch the video). You can also use electrolysis to remove rust from metal tools, brackets, etc.

On a badly rusted tank you may want to do several days. On one not badly rusted, one day should be enough time.

After you remove the rust you need to get rid of all the moisture left over from rinsing out the electrolyte. I've used at times acetone or methylated spirits. Dump in a quart or so in the tank and slosh it around. It will pick up the water. Then dump the acetone or methylated spirits in a responsible manner and dry the inside of the tank. I use the exhaust from my shop vac to dry my tanks. Change out or clean the filter, put in a new bag in the canister, and put the hose in the tank opening. Turn on the vac and let it run for a hour or so. Maybe 2 for a Fiero tank.)

I can say this enough, DO NOT USE A HEAT GUN TO DRY THE TANK. Also, DO NOT USE ACETONE, METHYLATED SPIRITS OR OTHER COMBUSTIBLE FLUIDS NEAR OPEN FLAMES OR ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT THAT MAY IGNITE THE FUMES.

When the tank is dry you can reinstall it. The chances are it will rust again unless you treat it. The best thing I've found for treating rust is Red-Kote (http://damonq.com/red-kote.html). It is not affected by ethanol fuels like most other tank liners. It forms a flexible membrane that will never crack or flake. The tank does have to be completely dry for it to work properly so make sure the tank is dry before using it.

Also, an extra benefit is that Red-Kote will seal pinholes. I use two or three coats depending on the condition of the tank with at least 12-hours between coats. The Red-Kote that drains out after coating the tank can reused. I position the can under the tank opening and let it drain back into the Red-Kote can for an hour or so before resealing the Red-Kote can.

Good luck.
Warlordsix OCT 31, 08:50 PM
Use phosphoric acid. You can buy gallons of it at Lowes/HomeDepot....sold as Metal Prep. Just follow the instructions on the container. I've used it on many rusty tanks. Eats the rust and chemically phosphates the resulting surface of the metal...if you've seen Parkerizing on firearms, you've essentially seen this. The phosphate surface is rust-resistant.

Ernie

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'87 Fiero 4.9 5-speed