Stomp! Car quits when its up to running temp. Need help (Page 1/3)
alex de jorge JUN 21, 03:31 PM
I am having a particular issue that I am hoping you guys can help me with. I recently changed the fuel pump and sender on the stock 2.8. The vehicle starts perfectly and runs perfectly for a while then it quits. I noticed that when the vehicle is cold, no issues are present but once the vehicle is up to temp and running for a bit, it will stop running and literally leave me on the side of the road. Once it cools down, it will fire up and run again and the cycle repeats itself. Besides changing the fuel pump and sender, nothing else has been changed on the engine. The gas on the tank is in good condition so no bad gas. Before changing the mentioned items, the vehicle was running perfectly and was extremely reliable. The fuel pump was changed as matter of precaution and the sender due to the fuel gauge not working. I would greatly love some input.
Skybax JUN 21, 05:24 PM
Most likely Ignition Control Module inside distributor is failing, just coincidence after fuel pump repair.

I would recommend rebuilding entire distributor (not hard) with new quality module, pickup coil, and o-ring seal.

[This message has been edited by Skybax (edited 06-21-2021).]

Patrick JUN 21, 06:44 PM

quote
Originally posted by alex de jorge:

Before changing the mentioned items, the vehicle was running perfectly and was extremely reliable. The fuel pump was changed as matter of precaution...



No guarantee that the new fuel pump (and wiring/hose connections) are all good, or that you didn't goof at some point in the process. I agree that it's quite possibly the ignition module, but it's so easy to test the fuel pressure on a 2.8... so check it!

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 06-21-2021).]

fierobear JUN 21, 07:20 PM
I had this same problem on two Fieros that sat for several years. The gas tanks had rust on the inner surfaces, and some of the rust came off and settled into the bottom of the tank. The cars started and ran fine, but under power the sediment evidently gets sucked up to the filter sock and caused the engine to stall. I did a chemical restoration on the inside of the tank on one car, and the problem went away.
I used the three step system of treating, sealing and coating the inside of the tank from KBS Coatings, but there are several companies that sell a kit.
Skybax JUN 21, 07:50 PM
Or, if you have a spare ICM laying around, install it and drive local to see if same problem occurs.
alex de jorge JUN 21, 08:41 PM
Thank you all for the replies. ok, fuel pressure with old fuel pump prior to changing it was 35. Fuel pressure with new pump is the same and holds that pressure. When I replaced the pump and fuel sender, I verified the tank and there was no sediment at the bottom of the tank of any kind. I do have a new ignition module so I will change that and see what happens.
fierobear JUN 21, 08:45 PM

quote
Originally posted by alex de jorge:

Thank you all for the replies. ok, fuel pressure with old fuel pump prior to changing it was 35. Fuel pressure with new pump is the same and holds that pressure. When I replaced the pump and fuel sender, I verified the tank and there was no sediment at the bottom of the tank of any kind. I do have a new ignition module so I will change that and see what happens.



Cool, then ignition module is most likely as the others suggested. Let us know the results!
Spoon JUN 21, 09:46 PM

quote
Originally posted by alex de jorge:

Thank you all for the replies. ok, fuel pressure with old fuel pump prior to changing it was 35. Fuel pressure with new pump is the same and holds that pressure. When I replaced the pump and fuel sender, I verified the tank and there was no sediment at the bottom of the tank of any kind. I do have a new ignition module so I will change that and see what happens.



You should be up around 42 psi!!. Try another gauge. You can also pinch off the rubber portion of the fuel return line near the tank and retest. Vise grips with a piece of cardboard on the jaws to keep from damaging the hose. If you don't get 42 psi or better you have problem in tank. If no pulsator present the ONLY HOSE that will survive the ethanol is SAE J30R10. The interior as well as the exterior of this type hose is protected from ethanol. Dig deep in your wallet cause a foot of it will be worth the cost of a steak dinner.

Spoon

------------------
"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

Patrick JUN 22, 12:42 AM

quote
Originally posted by Spoon:

If no pulsator present the ONLY HOSE that will survive the ethanol is SAE J30R10. The interior as well as the exterior of this type hose is protected from ethanol. Dig deep in your wallet cause a foot of it will be worth the cost of a steak dinner.



The best price I could find when I needed it relatively recently was $16.70 (USD) at RockAuto for a foot of the stuff. (Only actually need about three inches.) Not a bad price compared to the ripoff prices charged by some vendors.
alex de jorge JUL 29, 03:44 PM
Guys,

Sorry about the delayed responses. Family issues came up. I have changed the Cap and rotor as well as the ignition module. Car starts fine and runs stationary with no issues. Car warms up to operating temperature and at no point does it ever stall. The issue still is when driven for a while. Next steps, recheck the fuel pressure.