Still having a few issues (Page 1/4)
Bruschi54 NOV 03, 03:57 PM
Hi folks,
I hope you are all staying safe?
I’m still working through my barn find 86 GT. After the head gaskets nightmare the car is back together. I am still having issues with it by now I was hoping it would be running good enough so I can move on to the good stuff of restoring it.
The car still idles very high 2500rpm if the gauge is to be believed And when it is put into gear it dies unless you put your foot on the accelerator and brake pedal. When I moved it off the drive tempting fate I tried to drive it There was zero power and the car could merely creep
Now what I’ve replaced to date ...distributor ( it was missing when I bought it ) leads plugs and coil and associated looms. Replaced earth wire and positive cable unbolted and cleaned block connectors by the battery. Fuel pump ( original one was gunged up ). Fuel filter as well as all other service items. Water pump ( what a pain in the arse ) vac lines checked and egr pipe replaced. Idle vale removed and cleaned ditto throttle body ( water pipes removed to aide access and given cleaner look ) throttle pot checked, timing checked, TCC disconnected ( for now ). The cat is removed ( not required on a car in the UK for this year ) last but not least head gaskets and associated gaskets replaced.
Any thoughts . ( I have a 88 scrap GT to swap parts ) I was thinking perhaps the ecu May have fault ?

Patrick NOV 03, 04:12 PM

quote
Originally posted by Bruschi54:

The car still idles very high 2500rpm if the gauge is to be believed...



Well, 900 rpm should sound considerably different than 2500. You've obviously got a huge vacuum leak. Make sure the relatively large tube that plugs into the back of the TB is properly connected at both ends. It supplies air from the IAC valve. Of course, the IAC valve itself could be faulty. Hopefully the throttle-stop screw hasn't been messed with, as that is set at the factory and there's no need to alter it.

Put your finger over the IAC port at the front of the TB. The engine should stall (with the throttle closed).

cvxjet NOV 03, 10:06 PM
Vacuum leaks will cause a high idle- one of the most likely areas for leaks is the "Flex" tube from the EGR to the intake...NEVER flex it- it WILL break and leak. You can look for leaks/damage, but you an also use carb cleaner- spray it around and when you hit the leak area the engine will change sound.
Patrick NOV 03, 10:57 PM

quote
Originally posted by cvxjet:

Vacuum leaks will cause a high idle- one of the most likely areas for leaks is the "Flex" tube from the EGR to the intake...



I think the OP has covered that, not to say though that there might not still be an issue with it.


quote
Originally posted by Bruschi54:

vac lines checked and egr pipe replaced.


Iain NOV 06, 08:36 AM

quote
Originally posted by Bruschi54:

ditto throttle body ( water pipes removed to aide access and given cleaner look ) throttle pot checked, timing checked, TCC disconnected ( for now ). The cat is removed ( not required on a car in the UK for this year ) last but not least head gaskets and associated gaskets replaced.
Any thoughts . ( I have a 88 scrap GT to swap parts ) I was thinking perhaps the ecu May have fault ?



Gary, are you sure those were water pipes? May be an idea to reconnect them until you get it running right.

Also, did you skim the heads? No idea about the Fiero V6, but I know some V motors can then leak at the inlet manifolds unless double gaskets are fitted.

If it were me I'd let it run until hot, then chase along/round all the joints with a water sprayer/plant spray. Soon as you find the leak the engine note will change and you'll get a little steam out the exhaust. Most folk will tell you use WD-40/TT etc ,other brands of penetrating fluid/maintenace spray are available. The problem with some of those is the waxy residue left behind, though they do give more smoke. Water just evaporates.

iain
Bruschi54 NOV 06, 01:22 PM
Hi Iain,
The heads were tested and cleaned up while they were off. I had my mate who has been a Ford Mechanic put it back together whilst I was recuperating after an accident.
Yep the pipes to the throttle housing are merely there to flow hot water around to prevent throttle flap freezing. As this Fiero won’t be a daily driver I removed them ( as quite a few have on the forum ) The access to the distributor is fantastic now once out the way and it help access round by the stat housing once the two outlets are blocked off.
The vac pipes aren’t causing the idle issue I’ve checked them and I’ve swapped items off the 88 to discount items (TPS MAP and egr solenoid ) I’ve even bridged the solenoid wires to by pass the egr system with no difference. I’m missing something electrical somewhere.....possibly the ECU.
TXGOOD NOV 06, 02:19 PM
Have you checked the hose to the brake booster?
Patrick NOV 06, 02:36 PM

quote
Originally posted by Bruschi54:

I’m missing something...



Yes, you are. What was the result?


quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Put your finger over the IAC port at the front of the TB. The engine should stall (with the throttle closed).

CLICK FOR FULL SIZE


Iain NOV 11, 11:24 AM
Righto Gary, long time since I've played with a 2.8, couldn't remember all the hoses.

If Patrick's suggestion doesn't do it, I'll be in Airdrie a couple evenings next week if an extra pair of hands would help.

iain
Bruschi54 NOV 11, 12:24 PM
Cheers Iain,
Unfortunately a sudden family berevement has put everything up in the air. I’m in Hartshill in North Warwickshire..... so it’s a jaunt to Airdrie plus old Nicola Sturgeon would have me shot trying to enter Scotland at the moment......