Removing Front Rotors on 86GT (Page 1/2)
Brent7088 JUN 29, 07:22 PM
I'm trying to get the front rotors off of my 86GT and can't seem to get it free. Does anyone know for sure if the large nut in the center has to come off first before the rotor slides off? It seems as though it could be holding it on but can't tell for sure. Hammering it from behind after spraying all the studs did't do anything.

Thank you in advance.
Patrick JUN 29, 07:28 PM
The spindle nut has nothing to do with retaining the rotor.

I suspect it's rusted around the center bore, not the studs.

You've removed the caliper, right?

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 06-29-2020).]

Brent7088 JUN 29, 07:32 PM
Patrick - Yes, everything is off with the caliper tied up and off to the side -- just can't get the stupid rotor to budge. I suppose I just need to spray and hammer some more then.
dremu JUN 29, 07:37 PM
Umm, Patrick, are you thinking of the rears?

The stock fronts on 84-87, anyway, are one piece, hub and rotor. [Various upgrade options have separate rotors, but the stock ones are one piece.]



So, yeah, you gotta remove the cotter pin, undo the spindle nut, and then the whole thing comes out.

-- A
hunter29 JUN 29, 08:39 PM
Do all new rotors like above come with the bearing race installed ?

[This message has been edited by hunter29 (edited 06-29-2020).]

Patrick JUN 29, 09:32 PM

quote
Originally posted by dremu:

Umm, Patrick, are you thinking of the rears?

The stock fronts on 84-87, anyway, are one piece, hub and rotor. [Various upgrade options have separate rotors, but the stock ones are one piece.]



Damn, am I thinking of the front rotors on my '88 Formula?

Sorry Brent.
dremu JUN 29, 10:40 PM

quote
Originally posted by hunter29:

Do all new rotors like above come with the bearing race installed ?




Should do, yeah. Now whether that race matches your bearings is another matter. When I redid mine I just hammered out the new ones with a brass drift and put in the matching ones that came with my new bearings because they were there. All the books tell you not to mix old and new.

Oh yeah, and be damn sure the bearing grease is spec'd for disc brake, as they get toasty. General duty grease is no bueno.

-- A
hunter29 JUN 29, 11:10 PM

quote
Originally posted by dremu:


Should do, yeah. Now whether that race matches your bearings is another matter. When I redid mine I just hammered out the new ones with a brass drift and put in the matching ones that came with my new bearings because they were there. All the books tell you not to mix old and new.

Oh yeah, and be damn sure the bearing grease is spec'd for disc brake, as they get toasty. General duty grease is no bueno.

-- A



Right, thats what I was thinking..
theogre JUN 30, 01:11 AM
Yes, need to pull the nut and bearings...

Clean old grease out.
Pack bearings w/ Wheel Bearing grease for Disk Brake cars.
This grease won't leak or cause other problems.

Do Not stuff grease in/on anything else. Lightly coat middle on spindle and inside of hub between bearings, maybe inside of cap, just to protect rust on them.

Yes hubs often have new outer races.
Because of Tolerance between makers and questionable quality I rarely use them and replace w/ match outers w/ the new bearings.

Drive out... Often is 2 notches inside of hub so bigger area to drive them. feel inside quickly shows up. Hit 1 side 1-2 x then other side.
Drive in... Get Bearing Driver Kit! Often as "free tools" at AZ etc. (free if return before 30 - 90 days.) The tool save time and prevent damage. Coat the cone w/ a thin coat of grease.

⚠️ Warning: Front (and back) wheel bearing are Not Pre Loaded and some play is Normal.
See my Cave, Front Bearings

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Brent7088 JUN 30, 05:42 AM
Thank you to all who have offered their input about this...

The whole purpose of wanting to remove the rotor was to simply get the rust removed and clean it up. While this is obviously the original rotor, there is actually nothing wrong with it to my knowledge; I had just planned on doing this while in the process of replacing my upper ball joint.

Taking a look at the pics here, does anyone think it would even be necessary to clean it up or would it be a waste of time? I understand if I do, I would need to remove the bearing assembly first, since it would be submerged in a rust remover (planned on vinegar).