Replace front cradle bushings in the car? (Page 1/1)
ag9123 JUN 25, 11:04 PM
Regarding the front cradle bushings, I'm looking to replace them in the car (not wanting to drop the whole cradle).
I have access to a lift. It looks like I can loosen the rear cradle bushing bolts ( aluminum bushings already installed) and remove the front cradle bolts while supporting the cradle.
Will this allow the cradle to drop enough to remove the old bushings and install the aluminum ones?
The whole works would be "hanging" from the strut mounts I assume...


------------------
1984 Indy Fiero

[This message has been edited by ag9123 (edited 07-05-2020).]

theogre JUN 25, 11:31 PM
Loosen back bolts w/ metal may not be enough. Better if front was done first.
May move but may also bend/break rear parts.

lift car some. Don't lift for you to get under the car.
Use floor jack and jack stands to support the cradle.

Most need to save outer shell so...
Heat the core until rubber starts to melt so you Very Carefully Pull/push the core out. (Propane thru the core works.)
Wait for rubber to cool.
Pry/Cut out the rubber.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Dennis LaGrua JUN 28, 08:16 AM
Must echo theogre's sentiment that loosening the rear cradle bolts will probably not allow the cradle to drop down and give you the necessary clearance to get the bushings out. Remember you cannot tilt the cradle on the back bolts as they go straight up. Leaving all weight on those might cause the cradle to bend. If you have a lift a possible way to do it would be to use a hydraulic table where you can support the cradle then remove all four cradle bolts and lower it down just enough to clear

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Spoon JUN 28, 07:37 PM
I punched out the metal core and used a hole saw of appropriate diameter to drill out the rubber bushing. My cradle was on the floor.
Same canoe different river.



Spoon

------------------
"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

ag9123 JUL 05, 08:08 PM
I was able to loosen up the rear cradle bushings with the lift supporting the front of the cradle. I lowered the cradle a couple inches, just enough to get the old rubber bushings out and the new aluminum ones in. Was not as bad as I thought it would be. It turns out that dropping the cradle a few inches in the front caused minimal movement at the rear cradle mounts due to the distance apart. I made sure that there was no excessive angle at the rear mounts. Seems to this is the way to go given that I already had the rear aluminum bushings installed. Regardless, major headache out of the way.
Now I need to get it aligned after replacing the following:

Cradle bushings (Aluminum)
Front upper ball joints (adjustable)
Front upper and lower control arm bushings (poly)
Inner and outer tierod ends
Front camber ( used 3mm washer in front, 9 mm washer at rear)
Front shocks (KYB Gas-A-Just)
Rear struts (KYB)
Rear control arm bushings (poly)
Rear balljoints
Rear tierods inner and outer

I didn't replace the front lower balljoints. They seemed tight. probably tackle those next.


------------------
1984 Indy Fiero

[This message has been edited by ag9123 (edited 07-05-2020).]