Front Camber on 86 2m4 (Page 1/1)
Yorgle JUN 22, 10:30 AM
The front passenger wheel on my daughter's 86 2m4 had some extreme positive camber (ruined the tire in short order) which I had attributed to bad ball joints. But after replacing upper and lower joints on both sides, things still aren't right. Specifically, even with the upper ball joints moved as far inboard as possible (I'm using slotted ball joints) I can't get less than a .5 deg positive camber. That's a lot less than it was before, but I like to run 0 or even a wee bit neg camber. Looking at the original upper ball joints, which had even less adjustment potential than the replacements, that doesn't seem possible. Is there something I'm missing here?
theogre JUN 22, 01:30 PM
0.5° Caster is the Desired Spec for your car.
See my Cave, Alignment Spec's

Caster and Camber often won't wreck a tire unless way out.
Toe Will wreck a tire and often fast. Toe may look good on an alignment machine but driving w/ an iffy rack, iffy CA bushing(s), etc. can allow dynamic toe to be way out vs static toe on a machine.

Right side problems is often a result of hitting curbs and potholes on shoulders.
IOW likely have bent UCA LCA or Both and/or bent/damage the frame of car.

Many bushing have rotten outer shells. And may not see the rot easy. Use mirror(s), bore scope, or even probe hidden areas of shells.

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(Jurassic Park)

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