Brake Hose Rivet - Retainer (Page 1/2)
lurtz JUN 15, 02:28 PM
Hello Everyone,

Working on my '84 and rebuilding the calipers, new pads, rotors, bearings, shocks, and hoses on the front end this weekend. I am fortunate that everything has come apart very quickly, and this refresh has gone over pretty well.

The only thing I am looking for guidance on is in regards to the rubber brake hose retaining clip. The original hoses were riveted to the upper control arm. Removal was no problem with a cutoff tool, but now I am a bit perplexed as to how I should replace this rivet. It appears that I do not have any room behind the control arm to fit a new rivet in, due to the spring and front cross-member components being in the way. Do I need to remove the upper control arm to secure this hose properly?

Also, I do not own a rivet gun. I can probably source one, but I would love to hear any other suggestions as to how to secure this hose properly.

Thanks!
rubyredfiero JUN 15, 07:38 PM
Just did mine. I used a 1/4" x 3/4" hex head bolt, lock washer on the nut side and a hex nut. When the suspension is hanging down, there's no room for a tool or fingers, so you must jack the car up by the control arm but leave the jack stands in place. Use a needle nose vise grip to install the bolt from the inside and install the bracket, washer and nut. Tighten it down and your done. If you want to loose your fingers in the event the jack slips, don't use the vice grip. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THE VICE GRIPS. Good luck.
theogre JUN 15, 09:59 PM
Can use small bolt and nut...

Best put bolt thru upper CA hole from "backward" then hose bracket then nut.
Use LT Blue or lock washer on nut side.

May "look bad" seeing threads etc but if put on other way the bolt can hit upper spring mount and cause problems.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Blacktree JUN 15, 10:14 PM
Like mentioned above, you can install a short bolt from the backside. If you're worried about looks, you can put an acorn nut on it.
pmbrunelle JUN 15, 11:16 PM
I inserted a short bolt from behind, but I still had to grind the bolt head shorter to avoid interference with the crossmember and/or spring. I left enough of the hex to be able to grab it with a wrench.

I checked for clearance by sliding a piece of paper in the gap.

I found that M6x1.0 worked. Since the car is mostly metric, I preferred to stick with metric.

At some later date, when I take apart the suspension for restoration, I will grind the bolt heads even flatter, and tack-weld the heads in place. The hex won't be needed anymore.

[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 06-15-2020).]

lurtz JUN 16, 11:20 AM
Thanks All!!!

I think i am going to go the route with using a bolt and nut with some locktite. I sourced a rivet gun, but I am not able to find any rivets that will fit the size hole at home depot. This appears to be a larger than normal rivet I guess.

I would like the ease and peace of mind of the proper rivet, but the nut and bolt will have to do..

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1984 Base Coupe Red Stock MY8

2002 Grand Prix GTP 40th Anniv. Stock (Now Donor Material)

Frenchrafe JUN 16, 11:39 AM
Yes, as said before a small 6mm nut and bolt do the job, with a P-clip to hold the brake line.
I used a M6x15 bolt fed through from underneath the A-arm, two washers and a nylox nut.
Never had any problems with the bolt hitting the spring - my car is lowered however.
And never ever had an issue with the nut undoing, even on track!

Regards,
Rafe

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"Turbo Slug" - '87 Fiero GT. 3800 turbo. Sticky tyres. Driven hard!
https://www.youtube.com/cha...1wZvWQlkYxTjivW_0XNg

[This message has been edited by Frenchrafe (edited 06-16-2020).]

theogre JUN 16, 12:00 PM
Often threads etc will rust and tack weld then often can cause bigger problems.

Install or remove bolts is easy w/ magnets, clay, even Al foil to "shim" the wrench so it's tight on the bolt.
If bolt breaks don't care and get another.

Most times you don't take the nut off for many years. Most never take them off at all.

Example: I took off the hose brackets to replace the UCA bushings then ~ 10 years later to replace the hoses. Likely never again since used SAE-J1401 hose that Much better then OE hose but have all of the rest to fit right. (Often sold as "Pro Grade" hose kits but may be standard now. Hose rubber has normal DOT mark and SAE-J1401 if have better "rubber." See http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/129208.html )

Grinding bolt head is often not needed for 84-87 cars. Maybe for 88.
The OE Rivets take up ~ same space as many bolt heads. Might depend on bolt source. Some bolts just have a thinner heads. I think the bolts I used was from a old AT valve body.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 06-16-2020).]

lurtz JUN 17, 01:12 PM
lurtz JUN 17, 01:17 PM
Ended up using stainless 1/4 bolts, nylocks, as well as lock washers with a little dab of locktite.

The only thing I would have changed would be to go with a shorter bolt, but it will work!

New rotors, bearings, hoses, rebuilt calipers, pins/slides, caliper o-rings, pads, and shocks. Complete flush from all four corners, and now she is good for the next 120k miles.

It is so much quieter now as the brakes don’t make a rattling noise any longer.


Thank you all for all of your suggestions and help!

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1984 Base Coupe Red Stock MY8

2002 Grand Prix GTP 40th Anniv. Stock (Now Donor Material)

[This message has been edited by lurtz (edited 06-17-2020).]