Trouble bleeding the brakes after a brake upgrade.. (Page 1/3)
Threedog MAY 08, 02:42 PM
So I have C5 brakes on the front and the Lebarron/Deville upgrade in the rear. I have an S10 master cylinder and S10 booster.

I replaced everything at once, but unfortunately I had to leave one of the lines open for a few days and a ton of air got into the system. Problem is, I can not bleed them and neither can the two shops I have taken it to! The brakes work, but I have to nearly put the pedal to the floor to get them to kick in.


A couple things:
- E brake is disconnect
- The Master Cylinder did not get bench bled originally, it was put on, I bled the brakes, then removed it to bench bleed it.
- The bleed screws on the deville brakes seem to not be on the top, how do you properly bleed those?


What I have tried:
- Vacuum bleed (with a tool)
- Pressure bleed (partner in the driver seat. Open bleed screw --> push pedal --> close bleed screw --> slow release of the pedal --> fill MC --> repeat)

The brakes work, but the pedal goes to the floor before they actually kick in.

I always get fluid through, but there are ALWAYS bubbles. Any ideas?

[This message has been edited by Threedog (edited 05-08-2020).]

TheDuke MAY 08, 03:21 PM
I've always been taught to press the brake and then open the bleeder
otherwise you can get air in the lines
pump pump hold, open close, pump pump hold......... and so on
also it can take quite a while to get all the air out if you have opened both ends of the line
i ended up using and entire large bottle of brake fluid when i had to replace brake lines
cvxjet MAY 08, 05:13 PM
If your rear Deville brake calipers have their bleed screws on the bottom rather than the top, they are probably on the wrong sides......Could you swap them and would the screws then be on top? (That is the only way you get air out)
Dennis LaGrua MAY 08, 05:24 PM
After having tried all methods, I have had the best luck on Fieros with the Russell Speed Bleeders. Install the bleeders open 1 / 2 turn pump the brake pedal about times, then close it. Just use the proper sequence. Rr Rt , Rr Lft, Fnt Rt, Fr Lft Just check the fluid level after bleeding two calipers and refill again before you are done. 3o minute job-done.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Lambo nut MAY 08, 06:07 PM

quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:

After having tried all methods, I have had the best luck on Fieros with the Russell Speed Bleeders. Install the bleeders open 1 / 2 turn pump the brake pedal about times, then close it. Just use the proper sequence. Rr Rt , Rr Lft, Fnt Rt, Fr Lft Just check the fluid level after bleeding two calipers and refill again before you are done. 3o minute job-done.




If the lines are still in the stock configuration, longest to shortest and correct order is left rear, right rear, right front, left front
Patrick MAY 08, 06:15 PM

quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:

...pump the brake pedal about times



Seems to be a number missing.
Dennis LaGrua MAY 08, 06:35 PM

quote
Originally posted by Lambo nut:


If the lines are still in the stock configuration, longest to shortest and correct order is left rear, right rear, right front, left front



Explain to us how starting the bleeding process on the left rear could be recommended when the right rear wheel is on the exact opposite side of the master cylinder?

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Lambo nut MAY 09, 12:06 AM

quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:


Explain to us how starting the bleeding process on the left rear could be recommended when the right rear wheel is on the exact opposite side of the master cylinder?




Are you actually being serious and do you not know how the brake lines are ran on a Fiero? Do you know you bleed the farthest caliper first while bleeding the brakes? The left rear caliper is the farthest on a Fiero from the master cylinder the way the lines are routed.

[This message has been edited by Lambo nut (edited 05-09-2020).]

Lambo nut MAY 09, 12:30 AM

quote
Originally posted by Threedog:

- The bleed screws on the deville brakes seem to not be on the top, how do you properly bleed those?





I have these on my Lambo project and you need to remove the calipers from the rotors to flip them upright with the bleeder screws up and put something in there of similar thickness of the rotors if you go to pressure bleed in any way. I used gravity and a mighty vac combo and did it myself.
Mike in Sydney MAY 09, 01:07 AM

quote
Originally posted by Lambo nut:


I have these on my Lambo project and you need to remove the calipers from the rotors to flip them upright with the bleeder screws up and put something in there of similar thickness of the rotors if you go to pressure bleed in any way. I used gravity and a mighty vac combo and did it myself.



Lambo nut is correct. I did it the same way using a Mighty Vac. You have to flip the calipers and insert a shim of equal or marginally greater thickness as the rotors. Bleed the calipers starting from the one furthermost from the master cylinder. This is actually the RR because of the way the brakelines run. Then LR, RF, and LF. After bleeding, make sure the bleed screw is closed, remove the shim, flip the caliper upside down and install.

(A hint that works for for me: I use speed bleeders in my calipers. I know that some folks don't like them but I've had good luck with them in my Fieros and bikes. I just top up the master cylinder, connect the Mighty Vac to the speed bleeder, crack off the speed bleeder and pump away. It pulls fluid through the lines pretty quickly so you need to make sure the MC doesn't go dry and suck air. )

------------------
Mike in Sydney

[This message has been edited by Mike in Sydney (edited 05-09-2020).]