What i hate about the 2.8 60degree V6 motor (Page 1/3)
longjonsilver MAY 03, 12:41 PM
i have a 2.8 V6 in my 1992 S10, and i currently have 8 degrees of advance. The book says 10 degrees and some guys say 11 degrees, but i can't find anywhere that tells me how to adjust the distributor. i can find no hold down bolt, and i can't find anywhere on the internet that will tell me. Its soooo easy on the Duke, but the 60 degree V6 has the distributor just in front of the firewall.

WHERE IS THE HOLD DOWN BOLT?

thanks

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Astronomy says we will find a coded signal from outer space. Then we'll KNOW that life exists there, for coded signals aren't by chance.

Biology says there are coded genetic signals in every cell, but we KNOW that no intelligence created life.

I'm the original owner of a white ' 84 2M4 purchased Dec 10, 1983 from Pontiac. Always garaged, no rust, 4-wheel drifts are fun!

NW-Fiero MAY 03, 01:33 PM
Best I can find on You Tube...



Begin with the #1 piston at top dead center on the compression stroke. Position your distributor and rotor to match up to the #1 plug wire. If you look under the glove box under the carpet there is a single wire with a disconnect in it; locate the tan wire with black stripe under the dash on the passenger side it should be taped to the harness unplug the inline connector and esc will be disabled for setting the timing. If you do not unplug this wire it will never time correctly. With this wire unplugged time is just like a normal vehicle. Just remember to turn the engine off re-plug the wire and then let it idle for a few minutes. Turn the engine off, restart it and then you should be good to go. Cranking it and letting it idle gives the computer time to reset itself.

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Mark
' 85 2m6 3.4PR
In the Great Northwest!

[This message has been edited by NW-Fiero (edited 05-03-2020).]

Blacktree MAY 03, 01:36 PM
At the base of the distributer, there's a V-shaped metal piece (the distributer hold-down). The bolt is in the middle of it.
cvxjet MAY 03, 01:41 PM
I have never had any problem finding the distributor mounting bolt- It is right at the base of the distributor.....But there are a lot of things in the way.

Here are some pictures to help........



[This message has been edited by cvxjet (edited 05-03-2020).]

Dennis LaGrua MAY 05, 02:57 PM
Don't hate these engines too much. Some of them are still running fine after 32-35 years and 200K miles.
Patrick MAY 05, 03:03 PM

quote
Originally posted by cvxjet:

I have never had any problem finding the distributor mounting bolt- It is right at the base of the distributor.....But there are a lot of things in the way.





One of the reasons I removed the coolant lines to the TB was to facilitate easier access to the distributor.
cvxjet MAY 05, 03:34 PM
The engine does LOOK better also without those lines- but in colder climes they might be necesary......
css9450 MAY 05, 05:22 PM

quote
Originally posted by longjonsilver:

i have a 2.8 V6 in my 1992 S10.... the 60 degree V6 has the distributor just in front of the firewall.




Now imagine doing the same job on a full size car with a V8.... You'd probably have to climb up on the engine to reach all the way back there!
Will MAY 06, 10:02 AM

quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:

Don't hate these engines too much. Some of them are still running fine after 32-35 years and 200K miles.



After replacing rod bearings and a broken timing chain and removing a waterpump seized to the block and replacing the valve cover gaskets 14 times, carrying an extra ignition module and exhaust manifold bolts and gaskets in the car the entire time--and USING them.
Dennis LaGrua MAY 06, 02:00 PM

quote
Originally posted by Will:


After replacing rod bearings and a broken timing chain and removing a water pump seized to the block and replacing the valve cover gaskets 14 times, carrying an extra ignition module and exhaust manifold bolts and gaskets in the car the entire time--and USING them.



Sorry to hear that you've had a bad experience. Sounds like you were just unlucky. I've owned many Fieros and while I'm not thrilled with the 2.8L's performance, they all proved reliable. Last I read you are doing a Northstar build. Not to rag on your work, but that engine, pre-2005 has a terrible reputation for head gasket failures and reliability. Apparently the problem was that GM used faulty fine threaded headbolts that pulled out of the aluminum block. That was later remedied using longer course thread head small block bolts and threadserts. While that engine has plenty of power potential I am hesitant to use as the 4T80 is huge, heavy and a very difficult fit

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "