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Long time. No post. Installing Fiero Store exhaust on my 88 4 cyl. (Page 1/2) |
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Curlrup
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MAR 08, 08:38 AM
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I'm delving into changing out the original exhaust on my 88 4 cylinder with the Fiero Store replacement. I've never done this. I've done a lot of other work and including rebuilding this engine, but never exhaust work. Any tips? Anything I need to keep in mind with the Fiero Store replacement? The repair manual mentioned exhaust joint sealer? Never heard of this. Is it needed? I just thought it was fit it and clamp it.
Thanks in advance.
Bonus pic of my car.
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fieroguru
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MAR 08, 12:23 PM
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Wear safety glasses - exhaust work is probably the worst for knocking debris off the car and onto you. Especially since you will be under the car looking up as all the crap starts to come down.
Spray/soak any bolts you plan to remove - exhaust bolts are prone to snapping off, which will complicate the whole process. Depending if your car still has the stock cat, you might need to cut the old exhaust pipe - saws all works well.
I suspect the sealant they refer to is just in case you are attaching the new exhaust to a severely rusted metal that has rust flakes or pits. Those will make it harder to get a leak free seal and the sealant might help.
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theogre
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MAR 08, 02:56 PM
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Exactly what did you buy?
Because 88 L4 exhaust is different then older L4 exhaust and stronger because of that fact. 1 big example is down pipe from E-manifold to cat is split and adds support to upper section and joint near the cat to protect the manifold so less likely to break.
Unless the exhaust has Major problems, very unlikely where you live, better to Keep the original Stainless Steel exhaust. (Version of SS rust a little.)
PM sent------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
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theogre
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MAR 08, 03:38 PM
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quote | Originally posted by fieroguru: Wear safety glasses - exhaust work is probably the worst for knocking debris off the car and onto you. Especially since you will be under the car looking up as all the crap starts to come down.
Spray/soak any bolts you plan to remove - exhaust bolts are prone to snapping off, which will complicate the whole process. Depending if your car still has the stock cat, you might need to cut the old exhaust pipe - saws all works well.
I suspect the sealant they refer to is just in case you are attaching the new exhaust to a severely rusted metal that has rust flakes or pits. Those will make it harder to get a leak free seal and the sealant might help. |
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Besides manifold/head bolts, About the only bolts are joint to manifold and joint in down pipe for 88 to the cat. Nealy all will be bad even if doesn't break. The exposed threads and tip of them rusts no matter how installed most times.
So You often need to have new spring bolts etc every time if been used for 1 or more years.
Exhaust sealer is exactly that and Made by Permatex, VersaChem, etc. Seals joints when you use standard E-pipe clamps better then just clamping. More so when you slot the outside to clamp better as FSM says because OE SS metal won't crimp/crush like cheaper aftermarket aluminized pipe can. (I use 3 very thin slots 120° apart and even then SS is hard to clamp even w/ 2 clamps installed 180° apart.)
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Patrick
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MAR 08, 05:36 PM
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quote | Originally posted by theogre:
...better to Keep the original Stainless Steel exhaust.
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Agreed. Years ago when I wanted "dual" exhaust on my '84, I used the factory stainless steel exhaust from a wrecked GT which I modified to fit.
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Curlrup
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MAR 08, 05:40 PM
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Thanks guys. This is cat back. No manifold, no cat to replace. Bolts up where the cat dumps out. I think the Fiero Store exhaust fits fine and didn't change after the cat from 84 to 88......I think.
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Patrick
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MAR 08, 05:46 PM
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quote | Originally posted by Curlrup:
I think the Fiero Store exhaust fits fine...
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The concern is over its durability, as the factory exhaust has proven to be very long lasting.
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fieroguru
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MAR 08, 06:51 PM
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The factory exhaust routing is different around the engine mount pad area. The 88 pad is much larger, further forward as well as further inboard.
With some slight persuasion I was able to get an early 2.8 exhaust on an 88 cradle but it was still within 1/8".
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theogre
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MAR 08, 07:40 PM
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quote | Originally posted by Curlrup: Thanks guys. This is cat back. No manifold, no cat to replace. Bolts up where the cat dumps out. I think the Fiero Store exhaust fits fine and didn't change after the cat from 84 to 88......I think. |
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Installing a "cat back" properly for DIY isn't very easy. You have to carefully "split the weld" at the cat output to remove all of the pipe there. Then have to slot the cat outlet as I said above so clamps will work. (Splitting is likely means cutting the cat right next to the weld.)
TFS cat back does nothing except maybe make more noise to L4. Plus pipe at minimum is cheap and often won't last.
Even w/o road salt... Port D, Perryville etc are in or close to Susquehanna River Estuary and Chesapeake Bay that gets salt spray in bad weather. Clamping or Welding mild steel to SS cat out is likely to have problems too.
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Habanera Hal
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MAR 08, 07:51 PM
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Don't forget to install new muffler bearings, too.
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