Getrag reverse shift rail bushing/splitting the case (Page 1/1)
FieroJimmy MAR 02, 08:59 PM
So, in my 25+ years working on Fieros I've done just about everything there is to do on stock drivelines. Except for splitting a Getrag.

I'm trying to split the case on my spare to rebuild it as a replacement for my '87 GT, and I can't get the reverse rail bushing out. I've tried "working it out with Allen wrenches" as the book and every write up I've read say to, but it won't move.

I tried to separate the case halves anyway and it seems to be hung up on the shift rails, so I assume I actually need to pull it out. Though logic would say if I can pull the bushing up off the end of the rail, I should be able to slide the rail down through the bushing.

Does anybody have any tips, other than work it out with Allen wrenches? I'm about ready to try heating the case with a torch, or drilling and tapping it to use a small slide hammer, but I'd rather avoid drastic measures, if possible.
Blacktree MAR 03, 12:44 AM
Unfortunately, you need to remove that bushing to separate the case halves. They won't come apart any other way (not without breaking something).

If the two allen wrench trick isn't working, you may need to get inventive.
Will MAR 03, 08:44 AM
I've had good success with a pair of *small* "rolling head" pry bars. You may have to grind the business end narrower to fit in the slots on either side of the bushing.

Whatever implement you use, the real trick to removal is in using TWO tools and SYNCHRONIZING them so that you're not cocking the bushing either in its bore or on the shaft. IOW, even with the "right" tools, successful removal is still very strongly dependent on technique. "It's all in the wrist".

I agree that the fact that the case won't come apart without removing that bushing doesn't make any damned sense, but that's the way it works.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 03-03-2020).]

FieroJimmy MAR 03, 12:37 PM

quote
Originally posted by Will:

I've had good success with a pair of *small* "rolling head" pry bars. You may have to grind the business end narrower to fit in the slots on either side of the bushing.



I was thinking that type of pry bar might work. Unfortunately all the ones I have are way too big. I guess it's time to go tool shopping.
Blacktree MAR 03, 01:22 PM
What Will said about even application of pressure is very important. That bushing doesn't just pop out effortlessly, or at least it shouldn't. It's a tight fit.
FieroJimmy MAR 03, 05:27 PM

quote
Originally posted by Blacktree:

What Will said about even application of pressure is very important. That bushing doesn't just pop out effortlessly, or at least it shouldn't. It's a tight fit.



I figured as much. Plus this trans has been sitting without fluid for over a decade, so there may be a bit of galvanic corrosion going on as well.

Unfortunately, two of the four tool guys who come to my shop had problems with their trucks. Matco had a truck fire, and Gearwrench blew his engine, and I won't see Snap On or Mac until Friday. So I guess I'm left with Harbor Freight.
Will MAR 05, 01:42 PM

quote
Originally posted by FieroJimmy:

I figured as much. Plus this trans has been sitting without fluid for over a decade, so there may be a bit of galvanic corrosion going on as well.

Unfortunately, two of the four tool guys who come to my shop had problems with their trucks. Matco had a truck fire, and Gearwrench blew his engine, and I won't see Snap On or Mac until Friday. So I guess I'm left with Harbor Freight.



Keeping it wet with PB Blaster or other penetrating oil over a period of days or even weeks does wonders for seized components.
FieroJimmy MAR 05, 10:07 PM
Well, the Harbor Freight lady's foot prybars needed some recontouring, but then...

Victory!



Then the case halves split without any further issues.

Thanks.
Blacktree MAR 05, 10:29 PM
Nice!
Will MAR 06, 11:46 AM
Congrats!