86 2m4 ball joint questions (Page 1/2)
Yorgle FEB 04, 11:50 AM
I'm getting set up to change the lower ball joints on my daughter's 86 2m4 and from reading threads here and reading through the service manual, I think I have a pretty good idea of what's involved EXCEPT: 1) there's lots of references to chaining the spring before dropping the LCA, but nobody describes what I'm supposed to chain it to- so I'm looking for some suggestions there. 2) my service manual (albeit, for an 84 says the ball joints are welded to the LCA! If that's true, then how is it I was able to order just a lower ball joint?! Were welded ball joints only an 1984 thing, or does "welded" actually means only "tacked" so that a few good blows with ol' 10lb Bessy will bust it loose. Am I in for a surprise here? Thanks in advance for any guidance on this adventure.
theogre FEB 04, 01:04 PM
Basically...
Make or buy right tool to pop Fiero BJs.
Buy/Rent BJ press too. Can get this from "loaner tools" @ AZ etc.

Loosen bushing nuts so arm can move easy.
Loosen BJ nut. Do Not Remove.
Put floor jack under lower BJ w/ jack base 90° from car center.
Use the tool then remove it.
Make sure jack support low BJ then remove BJ nut.
Carefully lower jack and allow to move to car center as LCA end moves.

That releases nearly all spring pressure.
Spring can pop off LCA by "hand." Just by careful hand etc are not in pinch areas

Easier to remove LCA then but not required.
LCA might have tack welded BJ. Carefully Grind off that w/ dremel and heavy cutoff wheel #420
Press out old then press in new

Most New LBJ has a snap ring to prevent BJ moving. Use Them.

Reverse above to reinstall LCA.

BJ Bad likely Lower or all bushing have problems...
See my Cave, Bushings

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 02-04-2020).]

Yorgle FEB 04, 02:49 PM
Thanks, Ogre. I have the ball joint press and was planning to use a pickle fork to separate BJ from the spindle (I remember doing it that way on a Chevette years ago). I'm also hoping (perhaps too-optimistically) that I can leave the upper BJ attached to the spindle and just move the bottom of the spindle far enough to the side to get at the lower BJ.
ltlfrari FEB 04, 03:30 PM
Rodney does a neat tool for separating ball joints, well worth it, or make something similar, maybe a piece of steel tube and nut/bolt to expand but rodney's tool is well made, strong as heck and works very well.

http://rodneydickman.com/ca....php?products_id=176

Chaining the springs just means clamping a chain around them lengthwise to stop them from expolosivly expanding when you take the pressure off. They can force the lower control arm down with a LOT of force, keep your hands clear! I've used spring compressors but they can be a pain getting on wit hthe springs in place. You can rent from autozone etc.
When it comes to balljoint presses, I've found that the receiver rings sometime fit, sometime don't. I've uses hole saw in the past because nothing else fit.

------------------
Anything I might say is probably worth what you paid for it, so treat it accordingly!

Dave

www.ltlfrari.com

Patrick FEB 04, 03:36 PM

quote
Originally posted by Yorgle:

...was planning to use a pickle fork to separate BJ from the spindle



If you have the proper tool, you can use it to pop ball joints without destroying them and/or their rubber boots.

[EDIT] Where the heck did Dave's post come from?

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 02-04-2020).]

cvxjet FEB 04, 07:31 PM
The big mistake that can get you in trouble with the front springs is some people completely remove the BJ NUT and then pop the ball joint- with no jack under it! The A-arm then flips down explosively (All the way) and then the spring can come jumping out at you....Simply put, Jack just under the A-arm end/Ball Joint, leave the BJ nut threaded on but with a gap for the tool to "Pop" the BJ loose, and then use the tool- it will pop quite loudly. I have the RD tool and it is well made and works well (Recommended).

After the BJ is "popped" make sure the jack is fully supporting the end of the A-arm (Jack should oriented to roll towards the center of the car), then remove the nut, and then slowly (Carefully) lower the A-arm with the jack.....Spring should just stay put- I have shorter (Lowering) springs and they do not come out.

Make sure you have COTTER pin castellated nuts on your new BJs- Not the Nylock nuts!

[This message has been edited by cvxjet (edited 02-04-2020).]

Patrick FEB 04, 08:14 PM

quote
Originally posted by cvxjet:

...leave the BJ nut threaded on but with a gap for the tool to "Pop" the BJ loose, and then use the tool- it will pop quite loudly.



Yes, good point.... only have the nut loosened a couple of threads. And the first time you "pop" a ball joint in this manner, you're guaranteed to jump!
theogre FEB 04, 08:26 PM

quote
Originally posted by Yorgle:
Thanks, Ogre. I have the ball joint press and was planning to use a pickle fork to separate BJ from the spindle (I remember doing it that way on a Chevette years ago). I'm also hoping (perhaps too-optimistically) that I can leave the upper BJ attached to the spindle and just move the bottom of the spindle far enough to the side to get at the lower BJ.

A "pickle fork" Is Not the proper tool even if BJ or Tie rod ends are toast and you want to destroy them.
RD maybe other sell right BJ tool or can make "it" if have GM type Pulley press tool kit w/ 1/2" iron pipe joints. 1/2" joint for one, 1/2" to 3/4" joint for the other. Setuo so "nut" hits the stud for one to remove.

A pickle fork is not right tool and rarely works in most cars and trucks w/o damaging other things attach to the joint to be split.
Other might use same tool as Fiero front BJs.
Other joints like tie rods use different press tools.
If press tools won't release w/o force... tighten the press tool and hit joint w/ small hammer, ~ 16 - 24oz, to shake it to pop the joint easy.

Clean the stud to the ball and hole before install new one. The tappers must see clean metal to work right. The tappers do all the work. Nut just keep tappers engages when you hit a bump.
cvxjet FEB 04, 09:39 PM
Hey- There is a possibility that your local auto parts store can RENT you a BJ puller.....I have been able to thru O'Reilly's down the street a couple of times. It appears you have an O'Reilly's and a Napa near you....Call them and see what they have- If the local store doesn't have what you need they may be able to get it shipped there temporarily....
Yorgle FEB 05, 10:39 AM
Thanks for all of the input, folks. You've convinced me to abandon my pickle fork. One final question, though: if my lower BJ is, in fact, tack welded to the LCA, are the welds on the top or bottom? I ask because I'm not as inclined to tackle this job myself if I can't easily get at the welds.