My first Clutch replacement, have a few questions. (Page 1/1)
Oregon88 JAN 02, 07:33 PM
I'm in the middle of a clutch job. Cradle is out, trans is out, the motor is hanging by that sketchy engine support tool.

I love my 88GT, but my wallet doesn't.

I have a short list here of what needs to be replaced and have some questions about specific parts.

So here it goes...

i will get a clutch kit from Fiero store which includes the throwout bearing, pressure plate, and clutch disc.
Should i order the heavy duty kit or is the stock replacement good enough?

i'm thinking on getting a brand new flywheel, and am wondering if I should get a lightweight version or a stock replacement?
Should i also replace the flywheel bolts?

I need a new front transmission mount, should i also replace the motor mount and the other transmission mount?

the sway bar bushings are shot. should i just replace the tie rod end or also where it bolts to the cradle?
and to follow that, I'm considering just replacing every bushing while the cradle is out. It seems like that would be unnecessary, because most of them look fine. what do you guys think?

I also need a clutch alignment tool. I'm very glad i read about that because i had never heard of one before.

What other tools may a novice not know about?

I do have the factory service manual and consult it quite a bit.

Has anyone done the leg work for torques on every bolt and put it in a list?

I saw a few bolts that had thread lock on it. Should i put new thread lock on them? or just clean off the old stuff?

This is my fun car, so it can sit in the garage for awhile while i order parts and replace them.

So this has all got me thinking. Should i just take the motor out? its just hanging there lol i could easily replace the distributor and EGR pipe that broke while its out.
Also, it looks like the exhaust was replaced at some point and the cat was deleted.

I know theres a lot of questions here, so any advice would be great. Thanks so much guys.
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Any Oregonians out there?

[This message has been edited by Oregon88 (edited 01-02-2020).]

Patrick JAN 02, 08:00 PM

quote
Originally posted by Oregon88:

i will get a clutch kit from Fiero store which includes the throwout bearing, pressure plate, and clutch disc.
Should i order the heavy duty kit or is the stock replacement good enough?

I also need a clutch alignment tool.



I got the LUK clutch kit 04088 (currently $62.79) for my Formula from RockAuto six years ago. Daily driver, three years of autocross... clutch is still excellent. And it comes with a clutch alignment tool.


quote
Originally posted by Oregon88:

i'm thinking on getting a brand new flywheel, and am wondering if I should get a lightweight version or a stock replacement?



A heavier flywheel makes the car easier to drive. For autocross, the lighter flywheel would be somewhat of an advantage. If you're thinking about getting an aluminum flywheel, make sure to do a search for "aluminum creep" here.


quote
Originally posted by Oregon88:

Should i just take the motor out? its just hanging there lol i could easily replace the distributor and EGR pipe that broke while its out.



IMO, you'd be nuts to pull the engine just to replace the distributor and EGR pipe. However, pulling it to replace broken exhaust manifold bolts would be a whole different story.
cvxjet JAN 02, 09:44 PM
Every clutch kit I have dealt with has included a clutch alignment tool (So now I have a couple of them as spares)......

I have changed my clutch twice with the engine support holding the engine- worked like a charm- but torquing bolts should wait until the engine is attached to the subframe. Snug them up but wait until everything is back in place and then start torquing. I have both a Haynes manual and the 1985 GM Fiero manual (1988s are available (Used) thru Amazon for $55)...The old Haynes was pretty good, but they de-contented it and it is not very good anymore- the Chiltons was never very good.

On the Haynes manual; You may be able to buy one used on Amazon- One has "1986, 1987, 1989" on the title page which has more complete wiring diagrams while the later one has "1986, 1987, 1988, 1999" on the title page and has better info on torque specs (84-87 vs 88) but the wiring diagrams are crap- neither is perfect tho.

Here are the Torque specs for the 1988 rear subframe/Suspension;

1988 REAR SUSPENSION & CRADLE

Front Cradle bolt/nut = 66 Lb/ft

Rear cradle Bolts = 76 lb/ft

Trailing arm forward = 37 lb/ft

Trailing arm rear bolt = 44 lb/ft + 90*

Lat' arms spindle bolt = 37 lb/ft + 90*

Lat' arm to frame bolt = 41 lb/ft

Strut to Spindle bolts = 140 lb/ft

Strut bracket-tower = 18 lb/ft

Strut top to bracket = 65 lb/ft

[This message has been edited by cvxjet (edited 01-02-2020).]

Kevin87FieroGT JAN 02, 09:45 PM
The FS Ram heavy duty clutch works very well with the V6 and Getrag trans. Great choice there! I’ve had the same over 6 yrs now, no issues, it grabs well and firm, feels factory new.

Resurface you’re flywheel if not heavily scored by old clutch. Only have them remove what’s absolutely needed to recondition.

Buying new flywheel bolts wouldn’t hurt, but many reuse the factory bolts. Be sure to use Locktite blue or red. I reused the factory bolts and red Locktite.

For sure while cradle is out refresh your cradle bushings. Poly cradle bushings, or RD metal, work well. Also a great time for new rubber engine mounts. Both of these will tighten things up. It’s just that it’s really easy with the cradle out.

Yep , rebush the rear sway bar. Might also consider doing the front as well.

Though I’m not familiar with the 88 suspension, replacing the factory controll arm bushings, ball joints, struts and strut mounts on our ‘86 and ‘87 made a huge difference in how the car felt and handled. Again while the cradle is out, why not! Those parts all get corroded, dry rotted, stiff over the years.

You might also look at the clutch master and slave. At the very least change the clutch master fluid and bleed the system.

Torque everything to factory specs.

What your doing is a great project. Have at it and enjoy your new ride when finished!
Oregon88 JAN 02, 09:56 PM
Thanks for the tips!

If i did pull the engine, i'm sure i'd find other things to replace too, Like the main seals or something. Just wanting to know if there is anything else i haven't thought of that i should look for.

I guess i would be real easy to replace the bushings. They look fine, but i didn't really think about how hard and rotted they are.

I've heard that poly bushings can squeak a lot. Is this true?

Also, When looking for new mounts, bushings, etc...Should it be poly or rubber?

Oh, and i do have the Chilton, Hanes, and Factory Service Manuals

Thanks again guys! Tremendously helpful

[This message has been edited by Oregon88 (edited 01-02-2020).]

Kevin87FieroGT JAN 02, 09:57 PM
Leave engine in for distributor and EGR work.

Clean all bolts before using new Locktite (thread lock). I used red for flywheel bolts. Blue for every thing else.

To create more work, you might want to coat the cradle with Por 15 or the like to prevent corrosion.

Cleaning the trans case with a soft wire brush on a drill makes the trans look new.

Check for oil leaks at the crank seal and cam cover seal while the trans is out.
Oregon88 JAN 02, 10:00 PM

quote
Originally posted by cvxjet:

Here are the Torque specs for the 1988 rear subframe/Suspension;

1988 REAR SUSPENSION & CRADLE

Front Cradle bolt/nut = 66 Lb/ft

Rear cradle Bolts = 76 lb/ft

Trailing arm forward = 37 lb/ft

Trailing arm rear bolt = 44 lb/ft + 90*

Lat' arms spindle bolt = 37 lb/ft + 90*

Lat' arm to frame bolt = 41 lb/ft

Strut to Spindle bolts = 140 lb/ft

Strut bracket-tower = 18 lb/ft

Strut top to bracket = 65 lb/ft




This is perfect, you're amazing!
Kevin87FieroGT JAN 02, 10:01 PM
Use poly for the cradle bushings. Rubber for suspension and engine and trans mounts. No squeaks.

The sway bars can use poly bushings without squeaking, just be sure to use poly lube during install. If later your not happy with the poly sway bushings tightening things up, they are easy to change. Mine have gone 7+ years, no squeaks. You can also buy them in black to look stock if it matters. Same for the cradle bushings.

[This message has been edited by Kevin87FieroGT (edited 01-02-2020).]

Oregon88 JAN 02, 10:02 PM

quote
Originally posted by Kevin87FieroGT:

Clean all bolts before using new Locktite (thread lock). I used red for flywheel bolts. Blue for every thing else.

To create more work, you might want to coat the cradle with Por 15 or the like to prevent corrosion.




To create more work haha i like that

So what the best way to clean the bolts.

The car is fantastically rust free, but some of the bolts have surface rust.

Is it just a quick clean and scrub down with brake parts cleaner?
Kevin87FieroGT JAN 02, 10:16 PM
Right. Use brake cleaner, light wire brush, shoot with some Rust-O-leum satin black on head. No real need to paint the flywheel bolts. Paint there will prob burn off anyway with some spirited driving.

If using the factory flywheel, mark it’s position with paint and replace to the same position after resurfacing. Keeps it all in factory balance.

FS Ram Heavy Duty kit has the clutch index tool.

Rodney Dickman has nice clutch masters and slaves if needed.

[This message has been edited by Kevin87FieroGT (edited 01-02-2020).]