Headlight issue - ‘85 (Page 1/2)
Mmpete0131 AUG 25, 09:10 AM
Hello everyone,
I’m learning more and more daily! Previously I had posted that the right headlight is slow to raise. Yesterday I went out to start the car after about 10 days and the battery was deader than Elvis...reached out to previous owner who has now informed me that I need to disconnect the main plug on the right headlight or the battery will drain...once I did this and jumped/ran, the battery is fine. So, I plugged the headlight back in AND, I get a clicking noise which happens every 3-5 seconds. So I know SOMETHING is wrong, I’m guessing electrical Like a relay??? Any thoughts on what would cause the headlight to drain the battery? I’m assuming related to the ‘slow operation’?? Thanks in advance for your feedback!

[This message has been edited by Mmpete0131 (edited 08-25-2019).]

Gall757 AUG 25, 10:01 AM
If you search for Headlight Click (be sure to include the archives), you will find out what is wrong. Not an easy fix, but headlight experts like Fierofool should post advice here soon.

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 08-25-2019).]

fierofool AUG 25, 03:15 PM
In all likelihood, the rubber bump stops in the motor have disintegrated. That is if the motor hasn't been rebuilt. If it has screws holding the case together it has been rebuilt. In that event, a common cause of the 'ticking' is that the rubber weather seal that should be in a recess in the top of the case is actually on top of the case between the case and knob. The single blue wire is the one you need to unplug, just in case you're struggling to unplug the harness from the relay. The blue one is easily accessible.
Mike in Sydney AUG 26, 01:00 AM
Sound like the bump-stops. You can get repair kits from Rodney Dickman's or the Fiero Store. Rebuild them both. It will take 3-4 hours if you've never done it before. I found disassembly to be the hardest bit the first time. If you can find an '87 or '88 headlight harness, module and motors, do that instead of rebuilding the motor. Both of my '86 GTs have '87 light systems. Such a great improvement and it takes about the same amount of time as rebuilding two pre-'87 motors.

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Mike in Sydney

Mmpete0131 AUG 30, 05:18 PM
Thanks guys for your help! Rebuild kit ordered.
Mmpete0131 AUG 31, 09:04 AM
UPDATE - I went out to look at the headlight, and I can see it’s already been rebuilt (it has the rivets replaced)...should I just assume the rebuild is no good and rebuild again? I’ve already purchased the kit from Fiero Store. Other thoughts?
FX AUG 31, 10:10 AM
I agree with Fierofool on the top D-ring seal. This happens often when an inexperienced guy/gal rebuilds the gen one motors. I would take it apart, check things out, and make sure that top D-ring is sandwiched within the housing, and not on top under the turn-knob...
fierofool AUG 31, 02:18 PM
Hope you got the plastic gear kit from TFS. Their metal gear set doesn't use bump stops and that can put undesirable stress on other headlight components.

If this is your first time opening up a headlight motor, when you remove the small half of the motor case, use a scribe or Sharpee pen to mark the windings of the motor as it faces you. The windings must go back into the case in the same orientation. If you turn the windings around, the motor will run backward from what you desire.

There's usually no need to disassemble the internals of the motor, itself. After thoroughly cleaning the inside, use a dental pick to get all deposits and buildup out of the intermediate gear's teeth. Then brush the teeth with a wire brush. Fill the teeth of both gears with a synthetic brake slider grease. The synthetic grease won't harm the plastic gear if you use one. There is no need to put lube on the motor screw gear. It will be lubed by the primary gear.

Use a piece of fine emery cloth or fine sandpaper to burnish the commutator where the brushes ride.
Mmpete0131 SEP 14, 06:40 PM
Hey guys! Update...
I pulled the motor apart, and it has a heavy metal gear, where the replacement one from the Fiero store is plastic. The parts in the motor look to be in great shape. Should I still replace with the new plastic gear and bump stops?

AND...Can I hammer out this shaft from the metal gear, similar to the way done in YouTube videos?

[This message has been edited by Mmpete0131 (edited 09-14-2019).]

Mmpete0131 SEP 15, 01:38 PM
UPDATE - help!

Ok so I replaced the metal gear and bump stops, reinstalled everything making sure the D seals are properly seated. Reinstalled, and still have the same exact issue where the motor is clicking every few seconds, just as before. I’m not sure what to do from here...is motor replacement the next step? Any other thoughts? Thanks in advance for any help!