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| Fiero Headlamp Gen 1 - help with test results (Page 1/1) |
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HamiltonLambo
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JUN 22, 06:32 PM
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Hello –
I have posted this on one of the other sites and also posting here to see if i can get some insight on 1st gen headlight troubleshooting that i did.
I went through the troubleshooting video (Buddy's video in below link) and need to confirm if my isolation switch is bad or the test motor relay.
I have posted two questions below. I put the summary of the steps that Buddy put in his video so you can follow what i did.
1) Test for headlight switch.
- I connected the White wire (with headlight switch OFF): my multimeter measures 12V and also tested with test light and it comes on.
- When I test the Yellow wire (with headlight switch ON): it measures 10.5V (instead of 12V). However, when I use the test light, it comes on.
Question1 – is the 10.5V an issue? The reason why I ask will be obvious in step 2b.
2) Testing motor – isolation switch
a)Test motor - make it go up
White wire – plug it into pink wire – both sides of motors go up - PASS
b)Test motor - make it go down
Plug White wire to blue white stripe - this should make passenger side go down - PASS
Plug White wire to solid blue wire - this should make driver side go down - FAIL (it did not make it go down)
3) Test motor relays:
I tested the driver side that failed.
Test to make motor go up: Green wire on motor side and link with red wire: PASS
Test to make motor go down: Black to Green and Blue wire with Red: PASS
Question 2: If the motor goes up when I bypass motor relay switch, does that mean the motor relay is bad or the isolation switch is bad?
This is the link to Buddy’s video that I followed:
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...s/A...-2-088553.html------------------
fp
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FX
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JUN 24, 06:38 PM
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I would lean toward the isolation relay. Rodney makes one that Fixed similar problem. Color coded, easy to install...
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HamiltonLambo
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JUN 26, 09:55 PM
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k - will check it out. I did email Rodney.
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theogre
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JUN 27, 12:17 AM
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Low volts from HL switch is a problem to everything on the low volt circuit. To the point Motors and other parts down stream can burn out.
See my Cave, Electric Motors
Check both power lines in to HL Switch w/ HL On and Off. Neg probe to frame not a ground wire because they can be a problem too.
Red wire gets power from Fuse link B then out via yellow wire to HL bulbs etc.
Orange wire gets power from taillight fuse.
Note that using hot HL bulbs, even street legal bulbs like SilverStar, draws more amps. If you have any crap wiring to them including cooked C100, HL Switch and HL dimmer switch then you will have problems and they will get worst and can cause a fire.
You can add relays but you need to wire properly to handle high amp loads or can still have problems and light won't work at worse times, like fail a night in rain/snow.
See my Cave, Headlights------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
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HamiltonLambo
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JUN 27, 06:42 AM
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That is a very good read and added to my favs. I will go through the ground and wiring checks.
Copied from the site in-case someone in the future has same issue and reading through this "Low Volt means High Current."
This would explain why there were so many burnt out fuses laying on the foot area when i purchased the car.
Learning everyday - thank you for that!!
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