Best durable paint substitute for powder coating? (Page 1/1)
Threedog JUN 07, 06:26 PM
I have a bunch of metal brackets I want to touch up now that they are off the car. I have the ability to get them down to bare metal(with a wire wheel from a drill), but I don't think I necessarily want to powdercoat them. I don't have the equipment and I don't want to pay for it. They are not high use, mostly they hold bumpers on or hold relays in the 'frunk' area or are minor mounting brackets. Almost none are visible 99% of the time but they had a bunch of surface rust(New Mexico car, the pieces are all intact).

I powdercoated the suspension and was super happy with it, but I want an alternative for these brackets. I would greatly prefer something that can be brushed/spray painted(I do not want to use a gun). That being said, I also want something durable that will last. Color doesn't matter.

Any recommendations? I was thinking POR-15 but that stuff is super expensive and REALLY messy, but that is my #1 option right now. Painting is by far my biggest weakness when it comes to restoration, so any ideas help.

[This message has been edited by Threedog (edited 06-07-2019).]

IMSA GT JUN 07, 07:53 PM
Any of the brush on brake caliper paint kits. They dry extremely hard and are resistant to all chemicals. Also the paint is self-leveling which ensures a super smooth finish. Do NOT use the spray paint style caliper paint. It will just chip off of your brackets.

[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 06-07-2019).]

theogre JUN 07, 07:55 PM
Doesn't POR15 like many others like/need some rust on whatever to work right?
Read the product directions before removing the rust.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Dennis LaGrua JUN 07, 09:25 PM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Doesn't POR15 like many others like/need some rust on whatever to work right?
Read the product directions before removing the rust.



I've used POR -15 many times. It in fact needs a rough metal surface to adhere properly. Another tough paint is the black epoxy roll cage paints.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Threedog JUN 07, 11:33 PM

quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:

I've used POR -15 many times. It in fact needs a rough metal surface to adhere properly. Another tough paint is the black epoxy roll cage paints.





The roll cage paints seem like the best bet. However I like the caliper paint suggestion..

I might do both on different brackets just to see which one lasts longer.

pmbrunelle JUN 08, 12:09 AM
Go with POR-15. It's "expensive", but it's not expensive for what you get. A little covers a lot of surface. Yes, it's messy (stays on skin for a few days after the fact), but it wouldn't do that if it didn't stick well. No mixing required (single-component paint), so that simplifies the job setup.

The paint cures with exposure to humidity in the air... at first, I was just dipping the brush in the can and painting my parts. However, while I was painting, the paint in the can was being exposed to the air, and therefore hardening. So the can would be scrap before I used up all the paint.

Now, I have a better system. When I open a new can of POR-15, I empty it into a dozen small Mason jars. I then only open one small jar at a time... this way the old unopened paint stays fresh and uncontaminated from crap that clings to the brush.

I buy el-cheapo paint brushes. They're one-time use only, since the paint doesn't come off the brush.

All paints need a rough surface for adhesion. I sandblast most of my various engine brackets to give the paint a "tooth" to bite into.

If you don't have access to a sandblaster (wire wheel on a drill as you mentioned), then it is recommended to use the "Metal Prep" product to etch the metal, so the paint has something to bite into.

[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 06-08-2019).]

olejoedad JUN 08, 05:52 AM
Eastwood Chassis Black.
Dragonfish JUN 10, 11:38 AM
I also dabble in rebuilding old bikes and one of the options for painting parts is Appliance Epoxy. Cheap and cures hard as a rock.
2.5 JUN 11, 02:00 PM

quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:

Go with POR-15. It's "expensive", but it's not expensive for what you get. A little covers a lot of surface. Yes, it's messy (stays on skin for a few days after the fact), but it wouldn't do that if it didn't stick well. No mixing required (single-component paint), so that simplifies the job setup.

The paint cures with exposure to humidity in the air... at first, I was just dipping the brush in the can and painting my parts. However, while I was painting, the paint in the can was being exposed to the air, and therefore hardening. So the can would be scrap before I used up all the paint.

Now, I have a better system. When I open a new can of POR-15, I empty it into a dozen small Mason jars. I then only open one small jar at a time... this way the old unopened paint stays fresh and uncontaminated from crap that clings to the brush.

I buy el-cheapo paint brushes. They're one-time use only, since the paint doesn't come off the brush.

All paints need a rough surface for adhesion. I sandblast most of my various engine brackets to give the paint a "tooth" to bite into.

If you don't have access to a sandblaster (wire wheel on a drill as you mentioned), then it is recommended to use the "Metal Prep" product to etch the metal, so the paint has something to bite into.




I get the POR15 six packs, six small cans instead of one large one. Also I have successfully resealed a half can of POR15 with a layer of saran wrap under the lid, then I put the small can in a sandwich baggie for extra protection from the air. It worked fine a year later when I used up the can.... or was it 2 years.