 
     |
| Alternator cooling fan (Page 1/3) |
|
damittron
|
MAY 22, 09:36 PM
|
|
|
How can you tell if the cooling fan for the alternator and coil area are working? I haven't ever noticed mine working, and I have blown two ICMs in the last month.
|
|
|
|
Gall757
|
MAY 22, 09:47 PM
|
|
|
Got A/C? If you turn it on, the radiator fan and the trunk cooling fan should operate. Blown ICMs may indicate high resistance in the plug wires.
|
|
|
|
cvxjet
|
MAY 22, 10:29 PM
|
|
I looked at mine after years...Could not see any proof it ever ran; A few people have stated that it will only run when the A/C is turned on.....and I haven't any A/C! But looking at the wiring diagram, it appears it should run at the same time the Radiator fan comes on.
I took mine out, but I am planning on installing it behind the right IMSA scoop, and then ducting it along the firewall...I could also blow some of it at the front of the alternator....
If you want a long-lasting ICM, buy the GM AC/Delco one- they last. And use the proper heat conductive grease...Arctic silver is good and comes in a small tube...I carry a spare ICM and a tube of Arctic silver in a small box up front, along with a small tool kit......And I had to change mine on a backroad when the (Non-AC/Delco) ICM died......
Another suggestion; Change your rad-fan switch to one that comes on slightly cooler- The original would only turn on the fan as I was pulling over from overheating! So I went to a much colder one and the fan was on 100% of the time....Now I have the proper one....between 220 and 225 degrees.... (the original is at 237 degrees)...On hot days in stop'n'go traffic it comes on, but otherwise stays off.
|
|
|
|
damittron
|
MAY 23, 07:03 AM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by Gall757:
Got A/C? If you turn it on, the radiator fan and the trunk cooling fan should operate. Blown ICMs may indicate high resistance in the plug wires. |
|
I have A/C, thanks for the info! I put new plug wires on it about 6 months ago, and have only put about 100 miles on it since, so I am pretty sure they are ok, but worth checking. Thanks!
|
|
|
|
damittron
|
MAY 23, 07:04 AM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by cvxjet:
I looked at mine after years...Could not see any proof it ever ran; A few people have stated that it will only run when the A/C is turned on.....and I haven't any A/C! But looking at the wiring diagram, it appears it should run at the same time the Radiator fan comes on.
I took mine out, but I am planning on installing it behind the right IMSA scoop, and then ducting it along the firewall...I could also blow some of it at the front of the alternator....
If you want a long-lasting ICM, buy the GM AC/Delco one- they last. And use the proper heat conductive grease...Arctic silver is good and comes in a small tube...I carry a spare ICM and a tube of Arctic silver in a small box up front, along with a small tool kit......And I had to change mine on a backroad when the (Non-AC/Delco) ICM died......
Another suggestion; Change your rad-fan switch to one that comes on slightly cooler- The original would only turn on the fan as I was pulling over from overheating! So I went to a much colder one and the fan was on 100% of the time....Now I have the proper one....between 220 and 225 degrees.... (the original is at 237 degrees)...On hot days in stop'n'go traffic it comes on, but otherwise stays off. |
|
Good info, thanks! I bought a new thermostat and fan switch from Rodney Dickman, but haven't changed them out yet. That sounds like a good project for this weekend! I replaced my distributor with a Cardone, the ICM that came with it lasted about 30 miles. I put my origianl AC Delco back on, because it was still good, that lasted about 90 miles. The car only has 1100 miles on it at this point, so, even the origianl EOM ICM didn't have much time on it.
D.[This message has been edited by damittron (edited 05-23-2019).]
|
|
|
|
olejoedad
|
MAY 23, 07:58 AM
|
|
|
Check and clean the grounds between the engine and spaceframe, and engine and battery, and battery and spaceframe. You might even add an additional grounding point, as many have done.
|
|
|
|
cvxjet
|
MAY 23, 11:51 AM
|
|
Make sure you put that conductive grease down under your ICM....It is absolutely necessary!
As far as grounds, here is an interesting story; My 99 Firebird Formula's instrument panel starting acting up....went to the JY and picked up another panel...did not fix the problem. I did notice that the battery post was having corrosion problems, but almost immediately sold the car to a co-worker, who then transferred down to LA.....a year later he called and told me that he had been stranded on the freeway- the cable had simply rotted and then fallen off the battery. He replaced it and the car started right up and drove fine....and the instrument panel started working right. Lesson learned; Grounds and your battery connections are critical to how your electronics work.....It doesn't take much to mess up that crap!
|
|
|
|
damittron
|
MAY 23, 12:27 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by cvxjet:
Make sure you put that conductive grease down under your ICM....It is absolutely necessary!
As far as grounds, here is an interesting story; My 99 Firebird Formula's instrument panel starting acting up....went to the JY and picked up another panel...did not fix the problem. I did notice that the battery post was having corrosion problems, but almost immediately sold the car to a co-worker, who then transferred down to LA.....a year later he called and told me that he had been stranded on the freeway- the cable had simply rotted and then fallen off the battery. He replaced it and the car started right up and drove fine....and the instrument panel started working right. Lesson learned; Grounds and your battery connections are critical to how your electronics work.....It doesn't take much to mess up that crap! |
|
Much newer vehicle, but same story... I had a 2014 Nissan Titan. It blew through a couple of speed sensors. I found out that there really wasn't any other ground other than the neg battery terminal. I added 4 ground points to it and never blew another speed sensor. It also make the truck idle much better and my gas mileage went up by about 1.5 MPG...which isn't that significant, except the damn thing only got about 13-14 MPG before I did it. Anyway - Yep! I actually have purchased a couple of nice chubby ground cables to add to the Fiero, just haven't had time to install them, but I believe I will FIND time now! 
D.
|
|
|
|
FX
|
MAY 23, 12:30 PM
|
|
|
Wait---What??? There's supposed to be a fan in my engine bay on my 86 GT 2.8? I see the two pipes going to the coil, and the alt. I just thought they got air from the side intake, and ducting. Where may this mystery device be hiding? Never mind, I just found where it is in 'search', but I couldn't delete this post...Anyway, Knowing where it is now, I'll check it out... [This message has been edited by FX (edited 05-23-2019).]
|
|
|
|
olejoedad
|
MAY 23, 01:28 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by cvxjet:
Make sure you put that conductive grease down under your ICM....It is absolutely necessary!
|
|
The paste is a thermal transfer material. Conductivity is immaterial, the grounding is via the mounting screws....
|
|
|
|