any way of checking-3800 (thats out of car?) (Page 1/1)
Lou6t4gto MAY 05, 06:57 PM
got a 3800sc here on a stand that was given to me. Is there any way to check it for good bearings without pulling the caps ? Turning the crank back and forth with a breaker bar, it has just a hair of "play", but couldn't that just be the timing chain slack ?
I Know I'm going to" tear it down" in the end, just hate the $200 tag for New "BOLTS". LOL .... And what is the TRUTH about (if you use Studs for the Mains, that it must be align bored) doesn't make alot of sense, those "Caps" don't move.
viperine MAY 06, 02:44 AM
Keep it simple. Drain the oil and see what the condition is. Clean, used oil? Take your chances! Metal particles? Time for a rebuild!

Old timers always say "if it ain't broken, don't fix it".

As far as TTY bolts, mechanics DO reuse them. It's not the pretty truth, but an observation. I myself like the peace of mind and will replace any I remove, but the look I get when I ask that question in person tells me otherwise. I bet some folks here might scold me for saying so much, but there is a very big gap between the folks who have done this for so long. Success without overkill, versus strict adherence to technical data. I've personally had the best results with the old timer's mentalities.

YMMV!
Neils88 MAY 06, 08:00 AM
Before draining the oil, you could do a wet/ dry compression test. You can manually hook up the starter motor to the battery for a few seconds... just make sure the engine is properly supported.

Edit... you would likely have to take it off the stand to do the test... and I'm not sure where the starter motor is located... may have to bolt it to the transaxle

[This message has been edited by Neils88 (edited 05-06-2019).]

Lou6t4gto MAY 06, 12:48 PM
Maybe I should add, the #1 injector was Left Out, out in the Rain (for who knows how long), the oil was a BLOPPY mix (water/ oil), water came out of #1 cylinder ! drained and flushed it, new oil, turns over nice, no stuck valves or noises. but I will never feel secure enough to just try and "fire it" with out opening it up.
Dennis LaGrua MAY 08, 09:03 PM
On low mileage engnes that I have purchased and didn't hear running,the cylinder leakdown test is what we prefer. IMO, its a more accurate indicator of cylinder condition. On older engines we might drop the pan and jiggle all the con rods. If in doubt we will detach the caps and use Plastigauge to check the clearances.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Lou6t4gto MAY 08, 11:48 PM
I pulled the caps, perfect. it doesn't have a starter right now so I can't spin it yet. LOL
fieroguru MAY 09, 12:07 AM

quote
Originally posted by Lou6t4gto:

Maybe I should add, the #1 injector was Left Out, out in the Rain (for who knows how long), the oil was a BLOPPY mix (water/ oil), water came out of #1 cylinder ! drained and flushed it, new oil, turns over nice, no stuck valves or noises. but I will never feel secure enough to just try and "fire it" with out opening it up.



I would run a bore scope in that cylinder to see how much rust/pitting there is. If there is rust/debris in that cylinder, rotating the engine could be scoring the cylinder walls, which would cause an oil burning/consumption issue. Bore scope or pull the intake and heads before doing much more...
Lou6t4gto MAY 09, 12:29 AM
IF I "DO" use this engine, it WILL get torn down anyway, just to make sure it's worth building up. Thanks