Starter Upgrade....Very Worth It (Page 1/2)
Spadesluck APR 09, 12:49 AM
I decided to replace my (slow) working starter with a better one. My biggest reason to do this was because how long it took to start the car. Many times I had to do it twice. The motor is a fresh rebuilt 2.8 that is modified some.

I used a TYC 106472 from RockAuto. This is for a 3800SC Regal 97-2004 or Grand Prix 97-2007. There are other applications that it will fit but you get the idea. This particular model is 1.6KW. The difference between the old and new starters is amazing. The new starter will start the car is about a second.This is very much worth doing for anyone I believe. I did have to trim the metal shielding some that goes around the starter. No big deal. This model was only $69 with no core charge. Also should add I didn't use and shims.

Picture to show the difference:

[This message has been edited by Spadesluck (edited 04-09-2019).]

cvxjet APR 09, 01:28 AM
I want one of the later model light-weight starters- they save approx' 10 lbs........From a 3.5 or 3.9........But my starter is original....34 years and approx' 200,000 miles....Maybe it needs a rest.......
Spadesluck APR 09, 01:35 AM
I was less concerned about the weight as I was more concerned about fixing the slow start. It is lighter because it was easier to hold it with one hand while installing it but I couldn't not tell you how much lighter. Being smaller does make it easier to work with.
viperine APR 09, 02:05 AM
Gear reduction starters offer amazing torque for the quicker starts, and oftentimes, better exhaust clearance to reduce hot starting issues.

The tradeoff? Plastic planetary gears. They blow up at the first sign of trouble.

I stick with the design because it is so easy to install, but have rebuilt a bunch for the weakness in plastic. A quality rebuilt OE wins in this category.
Patrick APR 09, 02:49 AM

quote
Originally posted by viperine:

The tradeoff? Plastic planetary gears. They blow up at the first sign of trouble.



Were the plastic planetary gears also used in the original OEM gear-reduction starters... or is this just a cheaply made aftermarket issue?
theogre APR 09, 06:02 PM
https://www.carid.com/tyc/s...tor-mpn-1-06472.html

TYC claim they have a warranty but Most part makers don't dealing w/ individuals so getting RA and other online dealers to honor it can be hard. Plus you have to paid for ship it to them, sometimes ship back to you too, and wait for shipping both ways and often days to process on their end. This is why I go to AZ that test and when fails get new right then or next day if out of stock in my local store.

Typical ways out for Warranty not only to TYC...

quote
TYC Corporation warrants its products to be free from defects in material and workmanship for as long as they remain installed on the vehicle for which they were originally purchased. Any TYC product found to be defective shall be repaired or replaced.

This warranty is non-transferable and will be voided under any of the following conditions:

  • Use in commercial or fleet, governmental, off-road, or racing applications.
  • Failure due to natural/environmental forces; either external or internal erosion, including effects of salt-air corrosion and electrolysis from internal cooling system fluids.
  • If TYC determines alteration, improper use, incorrect installation, or negligence.
  • A faulty vehicle engine temperature warning system.
  • Improper installation, which caused the damage to connection threads.
  • Removal of any stamp, label, or manufacturer’s identification.

    This warranty applies only to those products that have been installed in accordance with accepted industry standards by a certified technician.

  • ------------------
    Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
    (Jurassic Park)


    The Ogre's Fiero Cave

    pmbrunelle APR 09, 09:32 PM
    I did this mod, for weight reasons. Here are my old notes:

    Stock starter: 14 lbs
    Reduction Starter: 8 lbs

    I measured that both the stock starter and reduction starter turned over my 2.8 at 180 to 190 RPM; no difference in cranking speed.

    Jason, if you noticed a difference, maybe your stock starter was already on its last legs. Or maybe my reduction unit sucked?
    Spoon APR 09, 11:38 PM
    I find it odd that the NA 3800 starters show 1.5 kw power and the SC version shows as much as 1.7 kw. I was under the impression that the SC engine has a "lower compression ratio" than the NA, hence "less kw power" would be needed for cranking. Can't just be for the SC since it can be turned freely by hand. Am I missing something?

    Spoon


    ------------------
    "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

    Spadesluck APR 10, 12:37 AM

    quote
    Originally posted by pmbrunelle:

    I did this mod, for weight reasons. Here are my old notes:

    Stock starter: 14 lbs
    Reduction Starter: 8 lbs

    I measured that both the stock starter and reduction starter turned over my 2.8 at 180 to 190 RPM; no difference in cranking speed.

    Jason, if you noticed a difference, maybe your stock starter was already on its last legs. Or maybe my reduction unit sucked?



    Patrick, I can guarantee my stock unit was probably close to the end of its life for sure. There is a huge difference in the starting power of the two for sure.
    Spadesluck APR 10, 12:39 AM
    Spoon, when I was shopping the different starters I just took the middle ground at picked out the best price 1.6KW. Which is how I ended up getting the TYC unit. RockAuto has a lot of options, albeit some of them did not show the KW power so I didn't pay them any attention.