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bbelly
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APR 03, 08:37 PM
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Hello. I'm new to the group and want to first thank Cliff for access. I also want to apologize because I know this question has probably been asked many times but here goes: 86 Gen 1 headlamps Problem - battery has a constant drain, and there is a clicking noise every 30 seconds or so at the driver side headlamp. I've replaced every relay including the isolation relay I paid $125 for. I have taken the driver side HL assembly out and rebuilt the motor as well as pulled the limit switch, cleaned the armature on the motor and cleaned the brushes as well as checked wire connection at the brush. This stopped the drain for a few weeks but the clicking and battery drain came back. I found another used motor and replaced to no avail. Question - is there something else that can cause this issue other than the motor, limit switch, or relays? Both motors operate fine up or down. Other than replacing the motor relay, I have NOT attempted to remove anything on passenger side motor because there has been no noise on that side. Suggestions anyone? Go!! Thanks in advance  ------------------
Craig
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Gall757
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APR 03, 09:07 PM
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Welcome to the forum!
There are many threads to read on this issue, but Fierofool should be along shortly with the help you need.
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Patrick
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APR 03, 10:06 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by bbelly:
I know this question has probably been asked many times...
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It has. 
The PFF search function will turn up a ton of info. Here are 77 threads to start with.
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CSM842M4
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APR 03, 10:06 PM
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Had this issue with my wife's 84. Disconnected the single-wire connector at the headlights that provide power to close them, and the overnight battery drain has disappeared. Next step is to wire in relays and a momentary switch to restore being able to close the headlights for sunny days... [This message has been edited by CSM842M4 (edited 04-03-2019).]
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JMTUT
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APR 04, 12:26 AM
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The clicking means the down limit switch isn't closing completely and bouncing back. Check the rubber washer/grommet on the motor shaft and make sure it is seated completely. The other option is to upgrade to gen 2 headlight motor and harness. I changed my motors to linear actuator with modern limit switches.
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fierofool
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APR 04, 08:14 AM
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I rebuild Gen 1 motors as a service and I think JMTUT has got it pegged. Hopefully you used one of the rebuild kits on the market along with their bumpstops. Other material used as bumpstops can cause various problems, including the clicking you're experiencing.
The rubber D seal that JMTUT refers to is often left outside the case at the top. When the motor torques and pulls downward, the seal cushions against the bottom of the knob and prevents the limiter switch from staying open. The seal should fit into a cavity in the very top of the case, just like the brass oilite bushings on the motor shaft inside the case.
Welcome to Pennocks and the Fiero world. Look up the North Texas Fiero Club (NTFC). blakeinspace is a member here.[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 04-04-2019).]
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theogre
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APR 04, 09:32 AM
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Several things allow the limit switches not staying off or not work at all and then the thermal breaker can activate because motor(s) draws way more amps to stall out.
If a Motor draws ~ 4 amps running (Gen2 is so. Never check Gen1 system.) then stall amps at End of Travel are 2 to 5 times that. If the Gen1 breaker fails too then will burn out relay(s), the motor, or worse and never blow the Fusible Links. Most Relay burning is because the motor have problems or low volts. (See my Cave, Electric Motors )
Some examples:
Not staying off can be a "rebuilt" motor w/ problems like too much lube or no/wrong buffer/bumper in the output gear. Motors need to load the output shaft and stay loaded to keep limit switches off.
Limit(s) Not working then will heat the breaker to shut off the motor.
Both are big problems because only takes seconds to minutes to repeatedly "wind up" the motor to shut off or repeatedly trip then auto reset that breaker. Either/both happening will easily kill the battery fast.
Gen 2 system is much better but not perfect. Is "Easy" upgrade and if motor(s) are bad you can get New motors thru AZ or anyone carrying Cardone w/ a lifetime warranty.
See my Cave, Gen 2 HL Motor------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
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bbelly
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APR 07, 04:17 PM
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Thanks for all the replies. Sunday afternoon now and finally getting time to take a look. Will start by getting the assemblies out this afternoon to take a look at the motors/ bump stops again. Good news is I'm getting reel good at taking those assemblies out. Takes me less than 15 mins to get 'em both out now.
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