New Logs for Old (Page 2/2)
Notorio AUG 15, 04:14 PM

quote
Originally posted by thesameguy:
The manifold were crap to start with and couldn't even survive a couple decades in California. Definitely a Top 5 Worst Component on a Fiero.



I can well imagine your disappointment at that moment ... yikes!

In my case at some point I will put these cracked ones up for sale in The Mall ... now I am wondering if a non-leaking set of manifolds will change anything in the sound (I really like the little rumble it has now.) But onward to spark plug removal, tonight I hope, so I can see if the plug deposits read like the port deposits. Just dropped my injectors in the mail for cleaning and flow testing, etc.
Notorio AUG 15, 09:50 PM
So the plugs are out and the verdict is in: the appearance of the port looks nothing like the plugs. All six plug electrodes and insulators look exactly the same (and what I would call 'normal' ). All six plug bases were also covered in oil from the leaky valve cover gaskets. I hope that will soon be at an end.

Interestingly, this car has never seen rain in the few years since I've had it and the new plugs I put in still rusted up along the firewall. All that just from giving it a bath now and then (??).



I still have two studs (#2 and #6) against the firewall that won't back out. I am hitting them with PB Blaster and tapping on them every day. Is there anything more I can do to encourage them to back out instead of shear off?? When I apply torque it is with two wrenches, the box-end wrench you see here and a vice grip in that open gap.

[This message has been edited by Notorio (edited 08-15-2018).]

thesameguy AUG 16, 11:13 AM
Re: rust, I suspect yes. Whenever I wash the car I immediately take it for a drive to dry off the front bank of plugs.... otherwise they have a tendency to rust.

Re: studs - I'd try Kroil. I'm a fan of PBB, but I've found Kroil to generally be a better performer. You can also try tapping on the end of the stud (in, towards the head) to try and break any corrosion or rust on the threads. A few good inwards raps followed by Kroil does wonders.

[This message has been edited by thesameguy (edited 08-16-2018).]

Notorio AUG 23, 11:52 PM
After researching on line here are the following methods I was trying to get the last stud out (with the results, did it work??):

0) Soak stud twice daily with PB blaster (nope)
1) Turn the stud slightly 'in' then back out (nope)
2) Tap on stud end while trying to turn with 3 lb. mini sledge hammer (nope)
3) Switch to trans fluid mixed w/solvent b/c trans fluid has great creep properties (nope)
4) Switch to Kroil (nope)
5) Heat up the stud and surrounding area w/torch then quench with ice cubes, repeat cycle (nope, tried probably 4 or 5 x over a few days)
6) Heat up the stud w/torch and apply a candle to the threads which will wick the wax into the thread and heat the bolt more (not tried)

Never got to Method 6 b/c the bolt sheared off on my last attempt at Method 5. Looks like at least 3/8" of the stud is broken off in the hole

Next stop, local machine shop to get a Valve Job and the stud extracted.