Clutch change by tilting the cradle (Page 1/2)
stevep914 JUL 06, 11:25 AM
Awhile back there was a wonderful step by step how to, on here, on a trans removal for clutch replacement by just tilting the cradle rather than dropping it. I can't seem to be able to find it. Can anyone help? I am aware of many opinions about doing the whole cradle drop, but am nervous about all the old connections, and risk of breaking some of them by totally disconnecting everything. I have the time, and am willing to deal with the extra hassle with the tilt cradle option . Any guidance here would be appreciated!! Steve
Raydar JUL 06, 11:33 AM
http://www.thefierofactory.com/qaeasyremoval.php

Note that the 88 is different, as the cradle won't "tip" due to its solid mounting.
fierosound JUL 06, 12:59 PM

quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

Note that the 88 is different, as the cradle won't "tip" due to its solid mounting.



Really? It may not have the rubber cradle-to-frame bushings (the "solid" mounting),
but the front cradle mounts are still horizontal bolts the same as earlier cradles.


------------------
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3.4L Supercharged 87 GT Click me
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[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 07-06-2015).]

Patrick JUL 06, 01:44 PM

quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

Note that the 88 is different, as the cradle won't "tip" due to its solid mounting.



Well damn, I must've defied modern physics when I "tipped" the cradle on my Formula and swapped out the clutch.

Don't worry Raydar, we all mess up occasionally.

[EDIT] Maybe it was me who "messed up". Sorry Raydar, I didn't realize the link was the particular method of lowering the cradle where basically three cradle bolts are removed and only the passenger side front one is still in place (but loose). I didn't like doing it that way when I tried it.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-06-2015).]

olejoedad JUL 06, 02:03 PM
We typically hang the drivetrain and drop the cradle completely out of the car. Its much easier to respline the input shaft/hub without the cradle in the way.
Doug85GT JUL 06, 04:45 PM
What Raydar is talking about is this:


quote

Then place floor jack under the rear of cradle and remove the cradle bolts on pass side rear, and drs side front and rear.



You have to leave the front driver's side bolt in place. If you try to remove it like it says in the instructions, it either will not work or you will damage the cradle or frame.

I just replaced the clutch on my 88 4cylinder. If I were to do it again I would also remove the entire throttle body. I ended up damaging my IAC since it was resting up against the trunk wall with a lot of weight on it.
Patrick JUL 06, 05:24 PM

quote
Originally posted by Doug85GT:

You have to leave the front driver's side bolt in place.



Nope. Passenger side front bolt.


quote
Originally posted by Doug85GT:

What Raydar is talking about is this...



Oh... I should've read the link.

I tried doing a clutch change many years ago in that manner to my first Fiero, an '87 coupe. It was a horrible experience. Much more recently I swapped out the clutch in my Formula by leaving the front two cradle bolts in place and "tipping" the cradle down. Worked like a charm.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-06-2015).]

stevep914 JUL 06, 11:20 PM
Thanks guys, I had looked at the Fierostore site already. There was a more detailed post done by a member of this forum, that I was trying to find. I dropped the whole thing out, when I stripped an 86 parts car I had. Seemed like a lot of hassle disconnecting everything.
Raydar JUL 07, 06:17 AM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:
...It was a horrible experience. Much more recently I swapped out the clutch in my Formula by leaving the front two cradle bolts in place and "tipping" the cradle down. Worked like a charm.




I did that in one of my 88s. I've also used the "drop the whole thing out" method. They're both a PITA, for different reasons.

I'm facing a clutch change in my 4.9 car, right after a show that's happening this weekend. Still trying to decide...
olejoedad JUL 07, 08:17 AM
Hanging the drivetrain by the engine with a bridge is by far the easiest way to service the clutch.
No need to drain fluids, disconnect wiring, etc.
Unbolt the exhaust, pull the axles (on the 88 this is more difficult due to the suspension design, we usually hang the calipers and pull the lateral links, trailing arms and sway bar links, leaving the stuts and knuckles as one unit), undo the drivetrain mounts and then drop the cradle out.
The trans can then be hung off a cherry picker and removed. The cherry picker also helps to hold the trans when resplining into the clutch hub.
Good luck with your project!