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Soldering Dirty Wires (Page 1/2) |
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Fierology
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JAN 07, 08:08 PM
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I ran into problems when trying to solder corroded connections. I came across this website when terracing what to do, and I thought I would share it with the forum. Looks like a good and simple method of cleaning old wiring connections for repairs.
http://m.instructables.com/...an-wires-in-minutes/
Any thoughts to share? Criticisms?
I also have had a rough time getting solder adhesion without paste flux. But I'm under the impression that paste flux will corrode electrical wires over time. I'm using rosin core solder.
Michael
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theogre
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JAN 07, 09:09 PM
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Any paste/liquid flux must be right type. Acid flux, like some plumbing flux, will cause electric item to fail and is why last step in your link is very important. You can get past and liquid flux that is safe for electric work.
You can get past w/ some solder in it so the it will "self tin" what you heat later.
Mouser Digikey etc have many options.------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)
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Taijiguy
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JAN 07, 09:24 PM
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I generally use your basic rosin flux. Got a big tub of it from Radio Shack for a few bucks. Make sure too that the tip of the iron is clean and tinned. Radio Shack also sells a small tip cleaning compound that helps too. It improves heat transference.
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Paul.S
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JAN 08, 12:11 AM
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Good flux is the key to a good solder joint. When I first tried to solder I thought I had no talent for it. I was using rosin, when I switched to a specialty liquid flux for the electronics industry, I could solder like an artist.
Kester 2331-ZX. I have a gallon of it, enough to last me many lifetimes.
10ml isn't much, but you only need a drop. You could probably get 300 drops or so from this: http://www.all-spec.com/pro...LHg8MCFchr7AodjAYAyA
Start soldering with ½ a drop of solder on the iron. Press the iron on the joint and hold it in one spot. The half a drop of solder will form to the shape of the joint and make good thermal contact. With good flux when the joint heats up capillary attraction will draw the solder where it should go like magic. - Paul[This message has been edited by Paul.S (edited 01-08-2015).]
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theogre
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JAN 08, 12:36 AM
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I forget to add this... Note that some Fluxes while safe for electrical work... Don't get it on you skin and you shouldn't breath in solder and flux fumes. Many Paste and Liquid fluxes can irritate skin, damage eyes, etc. Fumes can irritate eyes, breathing, etc. Read the MSDS for these items. See my Cave, Bad Chemicals
Occasional use of solders and fluxes likely isn't a big problem.
Regular use of solder/flux indoors can cause HASMAT problems. Lead solders are worse but jury is still out on using RoHS lead free solders. When you solder, you generate fumes etc. Is the fumes that can cause issues and contaminate areas.
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olejoedad
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JAN 08, 09:54 AM
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Not a fan of corroded wires. Cut back to good copper and replace if at all possible.
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lateFormula
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JAN 08, 11:56 AM
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olejoedad
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JAN 08, 12:48 PM
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Corroded wire is resistive. Sure, you can clean the bare part, but what about the corrosion under the insulation? Always cut out corroded wire to good copper and replace with good wire.
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jmbishop
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JAN 10, 03:59 AM
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Let's say you had some switches like window switches or interior dimmer that sat around and now the contacts are oxidized and don't work well. If you gave them a vinegar bath, neutralized it and dried it . What would be a good lubricant to protect the freshly cleaned terminals?
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theogre
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JAN 10, 11:12 AM
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Same as everything else electrical work... "Bulb" grease, many silicon greases like dielectric grease, or brake grease.
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