right axle 5spd 88 removal procedure? (Page 1/2)
tomsablon AUG 13, 08:58 PM
i need to remove the right axle on my 88 gt to replace the seal (rodney dickman support bearing seal leak) . i don't think i polished the axle shaft further out and that damaged the seal? i have the coilovers from westcoast fiero if that changes the procedure at all?
anyhow , best procedure? thanks tom
pdemondo AUG 13, 09:20 PM
First, remove the axle from the wheel bearing. You will probably need to use a puller.
After that remove the axle bearing assembly from the knuckle.
Remove the knuckle from the supsension links and the strut.
Finally, using a cv puller or a big screwdriver, pry the CV, from the transmision, until it pops out.

You can probably get by without removing the knuckle from the links/strut but it makes pulling the axle a little tighter.
fieroguru AUG 13, 10:18 PM
Jack up the car and remove the rear wheel.
Remove the 30mm axle nut and the axle should pull away slightly from the wheel bearing.
Disconnect the sway bar link.
Remove the long cross bolt to the lateral links and the bolt to the trailing link.
Pull upright away from the car and slide the CV end of the axle out of the wheel bearing.
Use a pry bar to pop the tripod housing out of the transmission and remove the axle.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 08-13-2012).]

josef644 AUG 14, 03:56 PM
A quick 'pop' always works better than a soft pry. I use a very large cressant wrench. Adjusted it out, put it behind the tri-pot & the transmission, and a quick pop. Make sure you have it so it doesn't pop out into dirt or sand.
zkhennings AUG 15, 09:58 AM
I used a 15/16ths wrench (dont think the size matters much but it was a good fit in between tripod and transmission case) and I wedged it with the circular end against the tripod housing and I slapped the other end of the wrench and they both popped out first try. I had spent quite a while trying the standard pry bar and big srewdriver and even a wedge shaped block of wood, but what worked the best was just a regular wrench. I think it did not bend at all and gave me a good surface to hit being flat and wide not to mention it had a high mechanical advantage because the circular end is not parallel to the rest of the wrench.
mcguiver3 AUG 15, 05:42 PM
Don't forget to drain the trany fluid.
It gets a bit messy if you don't
tomsablon AUG 22, 10:28 PM
thanks!
Sourmug APR 18, 05:33 PM
fieroguru

I know this is a bit of an old thread but thanks for the steps listed above, very helpful.

Nolan
gjgpff JUL 25, 03:19 PM
Hear! hear!, everybody in this thread!

Is this procedure any different for the 1988 Fiero with the Iron Duke 2.5L, and the Isuzu (MT2) transmission?
Is it different for the driver's side axle?
Look what I found last night!:

[This message has been edited by gjgpff (edited 07-25-2020).]

fierofool JUL 25, 09:48 PM
It's the same procedure for all manual transmissions, both sides but it's a little different on th 88. To pop the axel out of the transmission on my 87, I Just grabbed the hub once the tie rod and ball joint were separated and gave it a good yank. Then I left the tripot end inserted in the transmission enough that it engaged the output shaft (transmission in gear) and I removed the axel nut, swung the knuckle outward and pulled the axel out of the hub. Careful not to damage the seal in the back of the hub, and repack it with a little grease when reinstalling the axel. If you leave the hub knuckle attached to the strut you don't upset alignment specs.

E-brake cables need to be removed and it's helpful if you remove the fluid line clip that keeps the line attached to the body.

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 07-25-2020).]