The Turbo 3500 F23 swap (Page 4/79)
ericjon262 JUN 12, 02:27 AM
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[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 03-31-2020).]

Joseph Upson JUN 12, 06:29 AM
So happy to see the whole engine being installed. I've done a lot of experimenting along these lines, unless you intend for someone else that lacks the stamina to turn the relatively practical powersteeringless Fiero, I strongly advise you to ditch the addition of power steering. You have enough going on already with a tranny, engine and turbo swap going on at the same time. I've been there and I speak from experience, KEEP IT SIMPLE until the base install is complete and functional.

STOP! with the plumber rendition, get that crap off of that motor now, you're asking for trouble. Even supported I wouldn't trust that pipe on that light duty oil bypass adaptor. If you're afraid of rubber hose in that application, braided steel line will put you at ease, siliconeintakes has everything you need at very reasonable prices. I can't emphasize it enough, that pipe needs to come off.

Otherwise it looks good and should be a lot more fun to drive than what you are prepared for if you turbocharge it. That body style is one of the lightest produced, you might need to put a few bricks in it to keep it on the ground.

Joseph Upson JUN 12, 06:38 AM
I see you intend to use the stock fuel rail, do not use the Mallory bypass adjustable fuel pressure regulator, I read poor reviews about it after purchasing it and am experiencing one of the complaints; inconsistent fuel pressure which I believe is part of the reason I can't completely eliminate idle hunt.

For the oil bypass setup I used a 90 degree flat adaptor with the 3900 block mount adaptor which is a little shorter than the one your motor came with and it cleared the cradle easily.
carbon JUN 12, 08:56 AM
I see where you're going with the front tranny mount now... I need to get started on this, but the lift I am going to be using is being used to make money right now...


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Originally posted by Joseph Upson:

I see you intend to use the stock fuel rail, do not use the Mallory bypass adjustable fuel pressure regulator, I read poor reviews about it after purchasing it and am experiencing one of the complaints; inconsistent fuel pressure which I believe is part of the reason I can't completely eliminate idle hunt.

For the oil bypass setup I used a 90 degree flat adaptor with the 3900 block mount adaptor which is a little shorter than the one your motor came with and it cleared the cradle easily.



What do you suggest for an FPR then? I believe one of the examples I've seen just uses a stock 3400 FPR modified to work remotely... I am doing a similar install, without the turbo, in my 88 utilizing the returnless rail of the 3500...
ericjon262 JUN 12, 11:53 AM
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[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 03-31-2020).]

carbon JUN 12, 12:43 PM

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Originally posted by ericjon262:

Can you enlighten me as to what you mean by "the whole engine"




My guess is all the recent interest in putting iron heads on GenIII blocks...
Joseph Upson JUN 12, 05:33 PM

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Originally posted by carbon:
My guess is all the recent interest in putting iron heads on GenIII blocks...



Exactly! Back when tuning software was scarce along with good documentation it was understandable but not now.

ericjon262 JUN 23, 11:55 PM
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[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 03-31-2020).]

Joseph Upson JUN 24, 09:46 AM

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Originally posted by ericjon262:
anyone want to donate money (or parts) to the turbo 3500 fund?



I'd like to, but by the time I finish laughing you'll be finished with the project. It gets expensive fast and the most costly of all is over ambition, poor planning, then coming up with good plans and not following them and finally getting good advice and not following it, been there and done it.
ericjon262 JUN 24, 06:47 PM
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[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 03-31-2020).]