Unusual clutch issue (Page 8/8)
Patrick AUG 02, 03:10 PM

quote
Originally posted by stevep914:

Installed the new assembly ; had to slightly enlarge the banjo hole to fit the pin on the pedal.



With no bushing, and this being steel on steel, I hope you at least put a bit of grease on there.

Fingers crossed that the new master makes a difference!
stevep914 AUG 02, 05:21 PM
Plastered with grease. Gravity bleeding is painfully slow- still ongoing.
Patrick AUG 02, 06:31 PM

quote
Originally posted by stevep914:

Gravity bleeding is painfully slow- still ongoing.



I gravity bleed at the end of the procedure, and it runs out very fast. Prior to that, I stand by the side of the car where I can reach the slave with my right hand while the my left hand pushes something like a 1x4 against the clutch pedal. Open the bleeder valve, push pedal slowly to floor, close valve, slowly allow pedal to return. Repeat until bubbles stop, then allow to gravity bleed for a few minutes. Obviously make sure the master never goes empty at any time. Works like a charm on both my '84 (swapped in 5-spd Isuzu) and '88 (5-spd Getrag).

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 08-03-2022).]

Patrick AUG 03, 01:10 AM

quote
Originally posted by stevep914:

...still ongoing.



By now you're either driving around with a big silly smile on your face... or you've taken an ax to the car.
stevep914 AUG 03, 01:03 PM
Well I did as you had said; got the wife to work the pedal, while I bled the slave. Early this morning, I gravity bled it, and it came fast as you had said. Bled the bit out of the slave, and test drove it. IT PASSEDTHE 50 MINUTE TEST! So yes, a big smile. The pedal hesitates to come up that last little bit of free play. I believe this is due to how tight the banjo is on the pin- I had to ream out the hole a bit to get it to fit on.it is pretty snug. I believe as it wears in, the hesitancy will go away. It does not affect the shifting or driving in any way. It will take a couple of more outings, before I will completely trust it, but it appears this is an 8 year problem that has now been solved.
Guys, Thankyou so much for all your input, and special kudos to you, Patrick, who stuck by me on this, and donated a lot of your time and expertise. I hope someday, I can be of similar help to someone else. Patrick, if you ever want a beach vacation, you have a free place to stay in Mazatlan! I take 3 months off work in the summer, and use to car to keep me from getting bored. There is always something to do on something this old. Steve
Patrick AUG 03, 08:19 PM

quote
Originally posted by stevep914:

...test drove it. IT PASSED THE 50 MINUTE TEST! So yes, a big smile.





In this now 75 post thread, it was back in post #13 that I first expressed my suspicions of your clutch master cylinder. That was from not only reading what was posted in this thread, but also from reviewing all your other clutch threads dating back eight years! I'm glad this long-standing battle now appears to be over.


quote
Originally posted by stevep914:

Patrick, if you ever want a beach vacation, you have a free place to stay in Mazatlan!



Steve, that's very generous of you, but I might have to help you a few more times to deserve that.
kendell AUG 05, 12:33 AM

quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

I have used the gravity bleed method for a long time. Not having anyone to help, there was no one to depress the pedal. Pumping the pedal can break up the air bubbles, only to come back together later. If the pedal pump method is used, the pedal should only be depressed and held one time for each opening of the bleeder.

If I'm bleeding at home, I jack the left front of the car underneath the front subframe just enough to lift the tire off the ground. If it's underneath the left front control arm, I raise it about 6 inches off the ground. This places the master cylinder higher than the slave cylinder.

I then fill the master cylinder to the top, leaving the cap off the brake fluid and the reservoir for easy refill. Next, I go to the rear and open the bleed valve. As the fluid starts to flow, I use a heavy object and strike the side of the slave repeatedly. This dislodges any air bubbles that may be stuck at the pushrod end and lets them flow upward to the bleeder valve. With the pump method, the bleeder is directly above the fluid inlet and bubbles at the pushrod end will usually stay there.

Keeping watch on the reservoir, I close the bleeder before the reservoir empties, top off the reservoir and repeat. I usually run about 3 reservoirs of fluid through the system, then when the level drops to the FULL mark, I close the bleeder and I have pedal.

When I had the incident I related previously, I ran the left front up onto a curb at the grassy edge of the parking lot. Gravity bled the system and returned the 12 miles home to diagnose the problem. I was lucky that it was an undeveloped outparcel parking lot that wasn't being used. I have bled other person's systems by angling at 45* on their sloped driveway.



We will try the gravity bleed next. The pump method seems not very effective in letting out the air completely. We'll just wait for the tires from 4Wheelonline to arrive tomorrow so we can work on it at once.
stevep914 AUG 05, 04:19 PM
Just a final post on this thread. Second 50 minute test today, and all is well! I actually trust the car now! Thanks again to all; it has been an educational, but rewarding journey. The drive today, without worries reminded me just how much fun this car is to tackle a fast twisty road. Steve
Patrick AUG 06, 02:40 AM

quote
Originally posted by stevep914:

Second 50 minute test today, and all is well! I actually trust the car now!



Excellent!

Steve, I sent you a PM.