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| My DIY rear Coil-over conversion (84 model)... play by play (Warning many pics) (Page 8/11) |
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Ponnari
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SEP 15, 06:26 PM
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Thanks for the great how-to and the Pic's! I'm getting to do my conversion and this is just what I needed! 
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Monkeyman
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APR 09, 08:12 AM
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I know this is an old thread but I'm going to need it eventually.
If I was planning on building my own coil overs AND upgrading to new struts at the same time, exactly what would I need to acquire (from the bone yard, store, Jegs, etc) so that I could make these before tearing into the car? Ideally, I'd like to be able to remove the wheels, jack up the car, unbolt the old setup and bolt in the new.....period. No disassembly/assembly at the point of installation as 1) I'd probably do it on the rack at the tire shop so I could get an immediate alignment and 2) since I'm not terribly handy with tools, I could take my time building the coil overs at my leisure. (I do much better when I'm not in a hurry and if I was missing a part or a tool, I could get it at my leisure.)
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Internet-man
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OCT 10, 04:25 AM
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OK so I do not understand how DIY coil overs would let me adjust the ride height. I see the ring the spring is perched on but wouldn't adjusting that just make the ride stiffer or softer?
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redraif
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OCT 11, 08:16 PM
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Pete Matos
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OCT 11, 08:24 PM
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This is a VERY nice looking notchie. I like the color scheme and wheel choice, stance. Very well done my friend. Kudos
Pete
------------------
"May the grins begin when you turn the key and hear the engine roar over your shoulder" ......Gall57 (slightly modified LOL)
Pete Matos
A&N Precision Machine
CNC Machining and prototyping
Maryville, Tennessee
A&N Precision Machine on Facebook!
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redraif
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OCT 11, 08:39 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Monkeyman:
I know this is an old thread but I'm going to need it eventually.
If I was planning on building my own coil overs AND upgrading to new struts at the same time, exactly what would I need to acquire (from the bone yard, store, Jegs, etc) so that I could make these before tearing into the car? Ideally, I'd like to be able to remove the wheels, jack up the car, unbolt the old setup and bolt in the new.....period. No disassembly/assembly at the point of installation as 1) I'd probably do it on the rack at the tire shop so I could get an immediate alignment and 2) since I'm not terribly handy with tools, I could take my time building the coil overs at my leisure. (I do much better when I'm not in a hurry and if I was missing a part or a tool, I could get it at my leisure.) |
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Apologies that missed your post. I was not notified or missed the email. I just saw it today...
I would get the new parts I mentioned in the thread. The sleeve, perch, spring and get a new set of struts if you plan to upgrade. Modify the new struts and install the sleeve and perch. As for the fiero parts... procure from a junk yard all the parts I used in the reassembled unit. And reassemble the assembly as I did mine. Then all you have to do is jack up the car and drop your existing assembly from above.
New:
1. Get a new set of struts: you will cut of the spring seat/ perch. I reused my newish KYBs
2. Get your new coil over springs: I used Summit's 300lb/in 10 inch length with 2.5 inch ID part number SUM-102-5300
3. Get your sleeve kit: I went with Coleman Racing sleeves, coleman part Number 420-701 (7in long 2.04ID) FYI : Jegs part number is 193-420-701
Fiero parts boneyard or new your choice: Look back at the beginning of this thread and I detail these parts in single pics... left to right and top to bottom
1. flat Top plate (3 holes)
2. factory spring perch top (three studs sticking up)
3. coil spring retainer plate (three holes with centered spring locator)
4. dust boot rubber bushing (strut dust cover removed)
5. cupped top strut washer (where the strut bolt mounts)
6. strut bolt
7. strut shaft washer (sits on the dust boot top)
Here are all the parts going together to help you see them used....
| quote | Originally posted by redraif:
ok now reordering things...
****THIS IS THE CORRECT WAY TO PUT THE PARTS ON THE STRUT*****
Spring on first as before....
Dust boot... oriented with the dome side up
then washer oriented with the dome side up!
Add the upper spring perch with the 3 studs drapped on the strut bottom. Studs face up! It wont fit on after the top spring retainer plate is on and the hole is not large enough to slip over the bottom ot the strut...
There is a "correct" way to face this piece. longer stud goes to the back of the strut...
now the top spring retainer plate. Flat side up!
Ahhh now that is a usable amount of threads! Victory!
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| quote | Originally posted by redraif:
Now to button things up
Now the smaller washer... cup side up!
the nut...
The allen 6mm and the 7/8 wrench.... worked AWESOME. Piece of cake.
Finally things were looking right!
The whole assembly is now ready to reinstall. Leaving the spring perch down till go time
Notice how everything is lining up in the pic... flat side is to the outside of the... toward the side of the strut that bolts to the spindle.
But for referance...I will add the top most plate. Again... flat side is to the outside of the car... toward the side of the strut that bolts to the spindle.
here is the perch up and the nuts just barely on for the heck of it, so you can see how it all looks together before its on the car.
Time for bed... hopefully more tomorrow... depends on the seawall and dock replacement though!
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Again sorry I missed your post...[This message has been edited by redraif (edited 10-19-2015).]
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redraif
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OCT 11, 08:41 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Pete Matos:
This is a VERY nice looking notchie. I like the color scheme and wheel choice, stance. Very well done my friend. Kudos
Pete
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Thank you Pete!
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Internet-man
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OCT 19, 02:15 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by redraif:
I'm not good at explaining these things, but.... The aftermarket spring itself is what sets the stiffness or softness, which is predetermined by the manufacturer when they choose and coil the wire. Mine are 300lb. This can not be adjusted and remains the same no matter the cars ride height. The spring will only compress so far based on vehicle weight and forces exerted on it.
As for ride height....
Think of a nut and bolt. The strut with threaded sleeve becomes the bolt, the threaded spring perch is effectively the nut. The body of the car rests on this perch or nut with the spring acting like a dampener between the two. Granted the strut works as a motion dampener as well. But that not important to this explanation
Now the spring (dampener between nut/perch and body) is a fixed length and height when not in motion. It is compressed by the weight of the car. Then outside forces will move the body. The spring helps control this movement. But anyway... for simplicity sake... forget what it does in motion, think of it simply stationary and fixed. When stationary, it acts like a fixed spacer between the body and nut/perch.
So in simple terms... You move the nut (perch) up and down on the bolt (sleeved strut), so the fixed spacer (spring) between nut and body does what? It moves up and down with the nut, effectively moving the body up and down with it. This is what adjusts ride height.
That's my dumb a tempt to explain. Lol! Hope it helps....
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Nope. It still seems like that would make the springs stiffer and not affect the ride height. But! I will take your word for it that it does the exact opposite :P
Maybe it will make sense when I build my own. Right after I buy new wheels and tires. Which will happen after I finish rebuilding my AC system. Which I will start on in a couple weeks.
It's going to take a thousand years to finish this car!
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Patrick
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OCT 19, 02:37 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Internet-man:
I do not understand how DIY coil overs would let me adjust the ride height. I see the ring the spring is perched on but wouldn't adjusting that just make the ride stiffer or softer?
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| quote | Originally posted by Internet-man:
It still seems like that would make the springs stiffer and not affect the ride height.
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So if you're holding one of the rear springs over your head, it's stiffer than if you're holding it down by your knees? If you say so. 
The tops of the springs are what the sprung-weight of the car sits on. If the springs are raised, the car is raised. What is it you're thinking is preventing the car from being raised if the springs are moved up by using the adjustment collars? Do you believe the shocks/struts themselves are somehow preventing the car from increasing its ride height when the spring adjustment collars are moved higher?[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-05-2015).]
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mrstan
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MAY 06, 11:24 PM
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are the 88 struts the same as these from the 84 era? I was thinking that I was told the 88s changed somehow.. Have you heard this? If doing a coilover project, will 84-87 struts fit an 88?
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