My 4.9 wiring thread (Page 8/16)
Mickey_Moose JUN 25, 02:12 PM
As asked - which harness?? If all your sensors on the 4.9 are plugged in, don't worry about these (don't forget about the plugs on the transaxle).

BTW - the ECM plugs are marked which pin is which (look close and you will see the pin numbers stamped) - your method is a good ideal, but I am too lazy to keep getting up and down to go to the engine bay to move the battery (plus I am getting too old for that).
josef644 JUN 25, 04:53 PM
Sorry , I should have said that it was part of the 91 Deville harness, the one I am using for my swap. I do have 90% of the 93 Deville's harness. They cut it all off at the firewall. 107* outside right now.

Fieroseverywhere I just sent the unresized photos.

Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 06-25-2009).]

Fieroseverywhere JUN 30, 02:16 PM
I just finally got my speedo to work. Thought I'd toss the info out here for those that have problems like I did.

Basically I bought the signal clamp circuit from fieroaddiction, wired it in and... nothing. Speedo would zero out but never moved. SO I decided to make my own circuit. Then I checked the wiring a dozen or so times. Still nothing. Long story short the problem ended up being a bad output on the PCM. Good thing for us there are 2 on the caddy PCM.

So if your speedo doesn't work when you use output B11... switch to B12. Honestly, I'm just glad to know how fast I'm going.

Hey Mickey, Want to add this to the first post with the other speedo info? Could come in handy to some later.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 07-02-2009).]

sanderson JUN 30, 06:29 PM
Also on speedo problems don't overlook the radio fuse - don't ask me how I know
Fieroseverywhere JUL 01, 08:55 PM

quote
Originally posted by sanderson:

Also on speedo problems don't overlook the radio fuse - don't ask me how I know



How do you know?

Sorry, I just had to.
Fieroseverywhere JUL 02, 08:18 PM

quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:


Temp sender (also see NOTE):
Located in the thermostat housing (from a 2 wire unit to a 3 wire):
use these parts numbers for the correct sender:
GM 10096181
AC-Delco 213-815
Borg Warner WT3024
CarQuest TX66
Filko CS-43
GP Sorensen 38-5124
Niehoff DR134TA
Napa/Echlin ECHTS4020

Connector comes off a 92 Cavalier or the 3800SC - but most 80-90's GM tps sensor plug will work.

pin "A" BLK wire on the switch goes to ecm "E11"
pin "B" YEL wire on the switch goes to ecm "E16"
pin "C" GRN wire on the switch goes to C500 gage connection

NOTE: Some 4.9's have a temp switch in the side of the head:
1) if you car does NOT have a temp gage and just an idiot light you can leave the stock 4.9 sensor in the thermostat housing - wire this to the ECM, the one in the head gets wired to the idiot temp light on the dash.
2) if you have a temp gage in your car you change out the sensor to the above info and wire, the head temp switch can be thrown out (or used for an additional light that you have added to the dash).





Just wanted to toss something out there on this...

For most fieros this is the correct way to wire this in. The only problem I found comes for those who have fixed their pegging temp gauge. Here is a link on how to do the fix...
http://www.fierosails.com/tempgage.html

You have to switch the 2 pairs of wires to correct this mis-wiring from the factory. Problem is for us 4.9 guys we have switched out our CTS's for a 3 wire unit. This makes it a little harder to determine which wires to switch. To make matters worse the 3 wire unit does not run a temp light so technically there is one wire missing from the equation.

The two wires that need to be switched in the gauge cluster do not change. While facing you gauges, the left connector on the back pin 11 needs to be switched with the right connector pin 13. This is the same for all fieros that have this problem.

The two wires in the engine bay that need to be switched are located at the C500. C2 (dk grn/wht wire V6, tan wire L4) and D3 (dk grn wire) are the ones in question. In a fiero with a stock CTS you simply switch these wires at the connector.

Option 1:
In a 4.9 fiero you probably won't even have the wire in D3 hooked to anything... unless you are lucky enough to have the caddy head temp sensor on your engine and decided to use it. You probably hooked the CTS wire to C2 to run the gauge. If you, instead, connect pin "C" of your CTS to D3 of the C500 instead and switch the 2 wires at the dash connectors your temp gauge will not peg on startup anymore.

Option 2:
An even easier way to take care of this is to remove and tape up the Dk grn/yellow wire from G1 or G2 (varies based on year) from the ignition switch connector. This will eliminate the bulb test feature. Since most of us are not using a temp light anyway it won't make a difference if we take care of it this way. If you are running the caddy head temp sensor use option 1.

Most of my fieros I don't even bother with this fix. The temp gauge in my 4.9 though, sticks when it pegs and drives me crazy. I just had to fix it. Anyways, thought I'd share.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 07-02-2009).]

Carrluvr AUG 24, 09:10 AM
Does the distributor 12v supply need to be switched or can I hook it to the battery distribution terminal under the c500? Also how has everyone connected the tach lead? What source did you use for the connector?
Fieroseverywhere AUG 24, 02:19 PM

quote
Originally posted by Carrluvr:

Does the distributor 12v supply need to be switched or can I hook it to the battery distribution terminal under the c500? Also how has everyone connected the tach lead? What source did you use for the connector?



For dist power I used the pink wire from the C500 (pin E3).

For tach the white wire from C500 (pin C3). For the tach connector @ the coil I used a second dist power connector and shaved off the tab that keeps it from being used on the tach side. You can also find any GM vehicle with HEI ignition and a Tach and swipe a connector from there.
Mickey_Moose AUG 24, 02:21 PM

quote
Originally posted by Carrluvr:

Does the distributor 12v supply need to be switched or can I hook it to the battery distribution terminal under the c500? Also how has everyone connected the tach lead? What source did you use for the connector?




tach lead = find an HEI distributor in the junk yard that has a tach lead on it and use that one - the BAT lead can be modified to work in the tach position (so I have heard).

[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 08-24-2009).]

Carrluvr AUG 24, 04:46 PM

quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:
tach lead = find an HEI distributor in the junk yard that has a tach lead on it and use that one - the BAT lead can be modified to work in the tach position (so I have heard).





Good info how about the 12 volt lead should that go straight to the battery or should it be switched? The FSM really does elude to either.
I actually found a website that has the tach connector and the 12v connectors and a bunch of other GM stuff. Here is the link. It's fairly inexpensive and less than it would cost me to drive and hunt for one.
http://www.repairconnector....subcatid/0/id/293731

[This message has been edited by Carrluvr (edited 08-24-2009).]