 
     |
| still overheating and being weird (Page 7/16) |
|
Yellow-88
|
JUL 14, 11:37 AM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:
yeah new caps for both. front is the junky lever style but is better than the stock one it had (spring gave out) I've tried a new thermostat and no thermostat for awhile now and it's not shutting off with no stat so I think I'm losing capacity somewhere. especially since the fan has to run constantly |
|
After re-reading this thread a few times it's clear that not a lot of actual problem solving has been done. There has been a lot of shotgun in the dark type stuff as well as getting "stuck" on an idea. There is no time line in the thread. No cause and effect data. What changed what when.
One can hurt one's brain doing that. Please don't hurt your brain.
A cooling system has a pressure spec as well as a temperature one. Any tiny leak will lower the pressure. Pressure changes the boiling point.
Coolant that is in contact with the water jacket is hotter than than what the T-Stat sees. Supper hot coolant mixes with the cooler coolant returning from the radiator so the average is what the T-Stat sees. There are actually little areas where coolant would boil if the pressure is to low. To boil, meaning a phase change.
Again, pressure changes boiling point.
Also the front cap needs to open at the set pressure because too much will raise the boiling point too far. When it does open, the boiling point lowers resulting in wide spread boiling. Steam bomb.
New cap? "Front is the junky lever style but is better than the stock one .... " Has the system been pressure tested? How are the matting surfaces where the caps and T-Stat seal? Are they really sealing? Is the front cap opening at the specified pressure? I think it's 15 PSI. Can anyone verify that spec?
Amazingly, coolant capacity lose can happen without you seeing it. You may not see any liquid on the ground because it escaped as a gas when you weren't looking.
Anti freeze should be diluted, not straight. I don't know how that effects boiling point or if it's different than pure water. ( ??? )
Earlier you said that your T-Stat housing temp was 207 Deg F. That may be high because the T-Stat is set at 195. ( ? ) If you have a 200 Deg fan switch ( ? ) that explains the fan running. The stock one is 210 Deg. ( I think I lost my temp gun. Can someone verify that T-Stat housing reading for us?)
Back to basics. T-Stat and pressure caps.
|
|
|
|
cartercarbaficionado
|
JUL 14, 06:34 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by Yellow-88:
After re-reading this thread a few times it's clear that not a lot of actual problem solving has been done. There has been a lot of shotgun in the dark type stuff as well as getting "stuck" on an idea. There is no time line in the thread. No cause and effect data. What changed what when.
One can hurt one's brain doing that. Please don't hurt your brain.
A cooling system has a pressure spec as well as a temperature one. Any tiny leak will lower the pressure. Pressure changes the boiling point.
Coolant that is in contact with the water jacket is hotter than than what the T-Stat sees. Supper hot coolant mixes with the cooler coolant returning from the radiator so the average is what the T-Stat sees. There are actually little areas where coolant would boil if the pressure is to low. To boil, meaning a phase change.
Again, pressure changes boiling point.
Also the front cap needs to open at the set pressure because too much will raise the boiling point too far. When it does open, the boiling point lowers resulting in wide spread boiling. Steam bomb.
New cap? "Front is the junky lever style but is better than the stock one .... " Has the system been pressure tested? How are the matting surfaces where the caps and T-Stat seal? Are they really sealing? Is the front cap opening at the specified pressure? I think it's 15 PSI. Can anyone verify that spec?
Amazingly, coolant capacity lose can happen without you seeing it. You may not see any liquid on the ground because it escaped as a gas when you weren't looking.
Anti freeze should be diluted, not straight. I don't know how that effects boiling point or if it's different than pure water. ( ??? )
Earlier you said that your T-Stat housing temp was 207 Deg F. That may be high because the T-Stat is set at 195. ( ? ) If you have a 200 Deg fan switch ( ? ) that explains the fan running. The stock one is 210 Deg. ( I think I lost my temp gun. Can someone verify that T-Stat housing reading for us?)
Back to basics. T-Stat and pressure caps.
|
|
thats because the work on the cooling system is spread over multiple months and forums and alot of stuff never got documented. and I do understand how a cooling system functions as the rest of my cars won't overheat its litterally just the 88 that does.
as it turns out in the post from earlier it was going into the reservoir at over 230 degrees and boiling off due to the system getting hot enough to weaken the spring In the cap especially as soon as it was able to make pockets of superheated steam.
pressure test is fine so headgaskets seem to be fine and the only place it's losing water is through the terribly fitting fierostore reservoir that had to have the chassis hammered to fit. also finally got the stupid fan to pull air properly through the radiator so I guess the 17th radiator fan relay was finally the good one.
|
|
|
|
cartercarbaficionado
|
JUL 14, 06:36 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by longjonsilver:
i have the three row Champion radiator and a vent for the rad too, and my fan never comes on. Perhaps the thermosyphon is enuf for here in Canada.
|
|
I'm considering a hoodvent/scoop but I want one that won't look dumb sitting on basically the front of the hood. and yeah apparently that champion can cool a 383 stroker so I'm sure it would fix my issues immediately
|
|
|
|
cartercarbaficionado
|
JUL 14, 06:40 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:
If it helps... I've had really good luck shopping on Rock Auto. Specifically because I can pick and choose the parts I want to buy. Most times, the stuff on clearance is actually the better / older parts made either in the United States, or in Taiwan. Sometimes the parts are also top of the line parts, but clearanced because they're in older packaging. Either way, I've ... saved (?) a lot of money that I would have otherwise have had to spend more on just getting whatever the local auto parts store had. I've always had good luck with NAPA... honestly, the only local auto parts store I actually trust.
As for the cyl head... you probably know this way better than I do... but the cyl head on the Iron Duke is VERY prone to cracking. It's like one of the most common failures in these cars. I've cracked one myself, and basically had to junk it. I'm sending out (just cost of shipping) a spare 87-88 Iron Duke cyl head to someone who did the same thing on their 88 4-cyl Fiero.
It's awesome you discovered the culprit.
|
|
surprisingly the only head I ever had crack was on a 305 international v8. and thank gosh the v6 heads don't like to warp or bust gaskets after overheating to 300 degrees once or twice as long as you let it cool at its own pace (I've done that every time because it's usually a battle to find water when it was popping hoses off randomly)
so.im very thankful for that. i am unfortunately not going to be able to drive the car for awhile since the replacement muffler off of my 87 gt exploded extremely violently. I'll post a picture later but safe to say I think the engine is having some tuning related issues
|
|
|
|
Yellow-88
|
JUL 14, 09:51 PM
|
|
So .... the overheating problem is fixed?
|
|
|
|
cartercarbaficionado
|
JUL 14, 11:08 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by Yellow-88:
So .... the overheating problem is fixed? |
|
not sure. can't drive it due to having no exhaust atm but idling in place for 20 minutes to try and cure some jbweld exhaust weld didn't get it to overheat so it might be ok? still needs the airdam and I'm thinking about integrating a cowl induction style scoop onto the hood but only making it functional in the front around the radiator since I don't much care for the look of vents
|
|
|
|
82-T/A [At Work]
|
JUL 15, 08:31 AM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:
... the replacement muffler off of my 87 gt exploded extremely violently. I'll post a picture later |
|
The morbidly-curious side of me would really like to see this. I imagine a muffler with a huge blast hole in the side.
|
|
|
|
Jamesdlane986
|
JUL 15, 10:53 AM
|
|
Maybe your radiator is full of crap?
| quote | Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:
finally got some hot days and it's been 85 degrees and it finally started to overheat again and make some interesting noises so I'm not sure what's going on but I'm gonna try that better fan mod and the low temp fan switch to try and remedy this again. also getting a bumperpad air dam to graft to the aero style front end |
|
|
|
|
|
cartercarbaficionado
|
JUL 15, 07:09 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:
The morbidly-curious side of me would really like to see this. I imagine a muffler with a huge blast hole in the side. |
|
ask and you shall receive
 [This message has been edited by cartercarbaficionado (edited 07-15-2024).]
|
|
|
|
Yellow-88
|
JUL 16, 10:58 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:
ask and you shall receive
|
|
That's serious car guy art. I can see it hanging on wall of the local muffler shop.
|
|
|
