3.4 L32 V6/60... questions... compared to L44 (Page 7/9)
82-T/A [At Work] MAY 24, 12:05 PM
Woo hoo! It's here...

And I can't believe how light this engine is... the thing probably doesn't weigh more than 300+ pounds. I was able to easily slide it across my garage floor. I can easily lift 200 pounds, so if I was just a little bit stronger, I'd probably be able to lift it up and put it on the workbench. It's astronomically lighter than my Olds 455 big block... which feels exponentially more heavy.
Raydar MAY 25, 10:02 AM

quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:

When you say machined spring pockets... I had my engine rebuilt and they put thick washers under the springs to reinforce the head (for my older engine). I had a totally different performance cam. But when you say "use different springs," what would you recommend? When I get this motor, I would honestly prefer to not have to do any machining at all if possible since it'll have already been rebuilt. All I'll be doing is possibly replacing the valves (lapping them the old fashioned way with the spindle and suction cup, haha), and porting everything. If I can just buy the right springs, rather than having to modify the cyl head seats, that would be more ideal. Thanks!!!

Thank you!



Sorry. Missed this question. Wasn't ignoring you.
I don't remember what springs I used. I think I recorded what the installed height was, and what the compressed height was, and whether the valve lift was more than what would cause the coils to bind. (IIRC, they may also list a height for "coil bind".)

Or I might have just given the cam card to the shop who did the head work (he'd been doing head porting for decades, and that was 20+ years ago) and let him choose the springs. Like I said, he's been doing it forever. He did the refurb, porting, and the valve job.

The timing set? Came either from Jegs or Summit. The one with the variable "index" on the gear is probably the most expensive one for our engine. But it'll say clearly that it can be installed "straight up", advanced, or retarded.

Not as much info as you asked for, but there it is.
Raydar MAY 25, 10:33 AM

quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:

This cam looks awesome. Question before I buy it, I should also pick up the lifters and other components that are recommended with it, right? I shouldn't be re-using any of the stuff that already comes with the engine I just ordered?

It says 10.25:1 required. My guess is that I'm getting at least 9.0:1 since it's a rebuilt, and they typically plane the heads to some degree (even if nominally); however, that's a full 1.25:1 compression difference... it definitely wouldn't be an issue? Also... I read the whole thread about the ZDDT... I assume then I there's probably something else I could / should be using??

Thanks!!!




That cam is like the 272, only more-so. (MOAR is BETTER!! )
I prefer the staggered lift numbers (intake vs exhaust) since the stock cam is set up that way. (I can hear the people snickering from here.)

As already said, it'll have a nice thump at idle, and should pull like hell if the rest of the engine will flow enough air to support it.
I'd try it if I was doing this.

I would be inclined to use the recommended hardware. I might also call Crower and ask if the recommended springs require head work, with that cam. They didn't show the spring specs on the page.

Also... I would be inclined to use GM lifters, even though they are more expensive. I've heard lots of stories about aftermarket "performance" lifters wiping out cam lobes, in just a few hundred miles. I'm not the first to recommend GM lifters.

Follow the installation instructions, and use generous amounts of assembly lube (I have big tub of gray moly lube that came from either Jegs or Summit. Although there may be better options out there, by now.)
I would also use high ZDDP oil - for break-in, and going forward. And NOT necessarily Rotella T, which is what lots of people use. There are better oils out there.

The 272 cam also recommended 10.25 to 1 compression. I ran it on stock 3.4 pistons so... 9:1? It ran fine, and it was very forgiving about how much timing advance I could crank in at the distributor - even on regular gas.
If you want to run 10:1, use the DOHC pistons. Those will pretty much get you there.

Having said all that, it's been a while since I've done this. If anyone has any better suggestions, by all means please share.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 05-25-2023).]

La fiera MAY 25, 01:58 PM


And don't forget to use the correct oil. This one is perfect for the first couple of thousand miles.
zkhennings MAY 25, 02:20 PM

quote
Originally posted by Raydar:


I don't remember what springs I used. I think I recorded what the installed height was, and what the compressed height was, and whether the valve lift was more than what would cause the coils to bind. (IIRC, they may also list a height for "coil bind".)




Is there a reason you cannot use offset keepers to adjust install height? I did this on my LZ9 but they are a LS1 style keeper, not the twin ribbed keepers like in the 2.8. Possible they don't make offset keepers for the 2.8, but if they do you can adjust install height that way instead of machining the seat down.
Rhodesia1977 MAY 25, 03:26 PM
I have a question for all here. I am not mechanically inclined. If I wanted to have a shop install a new crate 2.8 engine in my GT, what do you think a fair price range would be for the whole job? Over 5k$ or less??
Raydar MAY 25, 05:18 PM

quote
Originally posted by zkhennings:
Is there a reason you cannot use offset keepers to adjust install height? I did this on my LZ9 but they are a LS1 style keeper, not the twin ribbed keepers like in the 2.8. Possible they don't make offset keepers for the 2.8, but if they do you can adjust install height that way instead of machining the seat down.



It's a good thought. But I don't know. Didn't even know that such a thing existed. Anyone else?
Raydar MAY 25, 05:24 PM

quote
Originally posted by Rhodesia1977:

I have a question for all here. I am not mechanically inclined. If I wanted to have a shop install a new crate 2.8 engine in my GT, what do you think a fair price range would be for the whole job? Over 5k$ or less??



Including the price of the engine? I think $5K is on the very top edge of "reasonable".
If you are supplying the engine, it should be substantially less.
Others may differ, and that's okay, too.
pmbrunelle MAY 25, 06:58 PM
I have Crower 86107X1-16 +0.050" offset keepers on my Fiero (stock iron-head V6).

See page 165 of the pdf catalog:
https://crower.com/media/pdf/2023pdf/166-180.pdf

The external cone is shifted up by 0.050", relative to the locating lip which engages the groove in the valve stem. This places the spring retainer higher up.

********************************************************************************

You can also get offset spring retainers.

See page 164 of the pdf catalog.

I have the default Crower 86032 spring retainers that were included in the camshaft kit I ordered from them.

Listed immediately below is the 86032D, which is an offset spring retainer, but otherwise the same. The spring seat on this spring retainer is located higher up, relative to the cone.

********************************************************************************

Raising the top of the spring retainer (by either method) brings the risk of interference with the rocker arm, so this should be considered and verified on the engine.

********************************************************************************

Todd, considering that you're asking very basic questions about how to do a stock rebuild on your daughter's 2.5, are you sure that you're that you're ready to be modifying this 3.4?

I think that the experience of doing a stock rebuild will be a good preparation before modifying an engine with a different camshaft / valvetrain.
82-T/A [At Work] APR 11, 04:48 PM

quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:

Todd, considering that you're asking very basic questions about how to do a stock rebuild on your daughter's 2.5, are you sure that you're that you're ready to be modifying this 3.4?

I think that the experience of doing a stock rebuild will be a good preparation before modifying an engine with a different camshaft / valvetrain.




Sorry, just saw this as I was looking for an old post I'd made (for information). Haha... I'm a lot more technical than I appear to be in my comments, which might even seem self deprecating. When I ask questions, I usually ask very basic questions too simply because I don't want to assume the answer... simply because I think it so.