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| 88GT Road Race car build with a 3.4TDC (Page 7/18) |
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ericjon262
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JUL 12, 03:20 AM
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Good to see you back! I'm surprised to see it doesn't have an L67! ------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
cognita semper
https://joj2020.com/ <--- She isn't a sexual predator.
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sspeedstreet
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JUL 14, 10:26 PM
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PM'd you about the '88 steering rack.
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darkhorizon
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AUG 03, 10:49 PM
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Been to the track twice with it since last update, so I am going to recap some stuff.
Trans is still running like a top. The fluid is a little murky so I'm beginning to think that the PhantomSlip diff is still in there grinding away... It also leaks out an axle seal so I am just being lazy and filling it every few times I drive it.
Motor still runs like crap when it gets warm. Tip in throttle is super bad under 4000rpms. My alternator died halfway through my last race weekend, and while it died it produced the same symptoms that it has had every time I've driven it, so I am thinking that the alternator has been bad the entire time I've had it.
Front steering issues turned out to be loose upper control arm butterfly bolts. Fixed that and put it on an alignment rack last thursday where i noticed I can only get 3 degrees of caster in the front right and 6 degrees of caster is the least I can get in the front left? Strange but it doesnt bother me that much. Making sure those top bolts are TIGHT is a big deal, I might need to put some grippy washers in there if it ever slips again.
Rear sway bar was causing me to be a little tail happy. Removing it resulted in much much better handling overall. It also allowed me to run more camber in the rear as the sway bar mount brackets were hitting the car causing my alignment to change on me randomly in the rear as well.
Fiddling around with the idea of retarding the exhaust cams as soon as I get the motor running better as a little extra power would be really nice... but I am picking up the F23 trans for the upcomming LS swap onto my spare cradle tomorrow so I'm not sure I'll ever devote the time required to the cam fiddling. I'm also fairly intimidated to do the cam timing, but I still have my old cracked block motor to practice on before I do so.
Brakes are still incredible. Had the car at Mid Ohio this last weekend and at Gingerman raceway in michigan a month ago. Mid ohio gave me a chance to push over 130mph in 5th gear, and I still had no issues pushing the brake zone as deep as I would in any car.[This message has been edited by darkhorizon (edited 08-03-2020).]
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Will
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AUG 04, 10:02 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by darkhorizon:
Front steering issues turned out to be loose upper control arm butterfly bolts. Fixed that and put it on an alignment rack last thursday where i noticed I can only get 3 degrees of caster in the front right and 6 degrees of caster is the least I can get in the front left? Strange but it doesnt bother me that much. Making sure those top bolts are TIGHT is a big deal, I might need to put some grippy washers in there if it ever slips again.
Rear sway bar was causing me to be a little tail happy. Removing it resulted in much much better handling overall. It also allowed me to run more camber in the rear as the sway bar mount brackets were hitting the car causing my alignment to change on me randomly in the rear as well.
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It may have gone for a front shunt. Inspect your front suspension & crossmember for this: http://realfierotech.com/vi...php?p=158366#p158366
Also, fully adjustable upper control arms aren't too hard to build.
Are you interested in spherical bearings for your front lower control arm pivots?
Did the car have the factory '88 sway bar end link brackets?
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darkhorizon
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AUG 04, 03:23 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Will:
It may have gone for a front shunt. Inspect your front suspension & crossmember for this: http://realfierotech.com/vi...php?p=158366#p158366
Also, fully adjustable upper control arms aren't too hard to build.
Are you interested in spherical bearings for your front lower control arm pivots?
Did the car have the factory '88 sway bar end link brackets? |
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I am always interested spherical bushings. They are better for racing in every situation. There is a bunch of front right damage, so i'll bend on it to straighten things out a bit.
It used to have a factory 88 sway bar in the rear, all factory stuff, hurt my ability to push the struts in for camber too so removing it is great.
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Will
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AUG 05, 03:52 PM
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darkhorizon
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AUG 13, 02:09 PM
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Under the honda bridge at Mid Ohio
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Rickady88GT
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AUG 13, 02:25 PM
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darkhorizon
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AUG 17, 10:49 AM
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Had the local alternator shop rebuild my dead alternator last week with a 1 wire alternator. He said that I was running the regulator at 12v but I should have been running it at 4v? I was pretty confused but he was really sure the 1 wire regulator was what I needed so $100+ later I am good to go. He did say that the leaking valve cover breather I had was the primary cause of killing it....
Sold the 9 second car this weekend with most of the go fast bits on it... so thats a thing that happened. I also had to put the old "regular tie rod end" rack from the road race car back into the drag car before I sold it. The Baer bump steer tie rods are pretty cool, and cost a staggering $250 so I should be using them. I still have some high speed stability issues to find too, but honestly I'm starting to blame the wheel bearings, so a email is being sent to Rodney today to see if he will sell me some bearings for the front that will hold up for the 88.
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Will
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AUG 17, 04:36 PM
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I'm working on '88 front knuckles that accept Corvette wheel bearings.
Also, what Baer tie rod ends are you referring to?
Where do we look for 9 sec Fiero action now?
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