AC R134 Conversion (Page 7/8)
computer_engineer JUN 08, 01:25 AM
The seal for the switch seemed to fit past the threads on the port. Is this the way it goes???



The new compressor did not come with any instructions for fitting the sealing washers. It also, DID NOT, come with anything that says if the compressor comes pre-filled with oil. Should I assume there is oil in the compressor, and that it is PAG?

Should I look under the plastic cover of the new compressor to see if it takes O-Rings or sealing washers?

Should I open the new compressor or leave it sealed until I am ready to install it?

[This message has been edited by computer_engineer (edited 06-08-2020).]

RWDPLZ JUN 08, 09:42 AM
Yes, that looks fine.

Right before you put the compressor on the car, install the switches, and take the suction/discharge plastic cap/cover off and see if it takes sealing washers (it should if it came with them and really is a 58255). With the ports pointing down towards a cup, spin the clutch over a few times and see if any oil comes out. If the Four Seasons website is accurate, it should contain 3oz of PAG150.

The point of the cap is to keep moisture out, as refrigerant oil absorbs moisture, and prevent corrosion in the compressor. If you get the whole system assembled and draw a vacuum with a vacuum pump down to 29 inHg for a minimum of half an hour, that should boil off any moisture in the system, leaving the total system capacity of 8 oz of oil you add to the compressor and accumulator. If the system doesn't leak, you can just leave it that way until you're ready to add refrigerant.
Kevin87FieroGT JUN 08, 10:48 PM
.

[This message has been edited by Kevin87FieroGT (edited 06-08-2020).]

Kevin87FieroGT JUN 08, 10:54 PM
.

[This message has been edited by Kevin87FieroGT (edited 06-09-2020).]

Larryinkc JUN 09, 08:28 AM
Here's a good explanation of why it is important to use the type of oil that the AC compressor is designed for. My experience using ester oil in a new Delco V5 compressor was not good, the compressor got very noisy after 2 seasons. I flushed the system and installed a new condenser, drier and compressor with the correct PAG oil and all has been good since.

https://www.denso-am.eu/med...e-right-oil-matters/
Kevin87FieroGT JUN 09, 09:47 AM
The reman Four Seasons #57255 I just picked up came with 3oz. PAG 150. The compressor was labeled as such as well. When drained the 3oz was there for sure.

On install I put 4oz. Ester100 in the suction port of the compressor and 4oz. into the drier/ accumulator. This is the same as I did for the previous compressor and accumulator that lasted 10 yrs. when it (a reman HR6 #57255) failed due to a compressor case seal leak. My guess was the compressor case may have been compromised during install while tightening the a/c belt. Oh well, that reman compressor worked great for 10 yrs. till the case seal leaked using Ester100.

I used Ester initially as there may have been residual oil from the OEM R-12 system in the lines and condenser. For a complete rebuild and flushing I would just use the PAG150 (8oz total).
Dennis LaGrua JUN 11, 08:16 AM
If I may make a suggestion, when replacing, always buy a new GM A/C compressor. We've seen quite a few problems with the "rebuilt" kind. Sometimes they work great and other times they fail within a year. I would also advise against using PAG oil in a system that originally used mineral oil. Ester oil was developed especially for retrofits and will not be negatively affected by any remaining mineral oil. Pag oil was designed to be used in new R-134a A/C systems.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 06-11-2020).]

computer_engineer JUN 13, 10:27 PM
Okay,

So the ports on the new compressor are not like the old ones with the O-Rings. The instructions you posted (RWDPLZ) seem to indicate I use the top row with the first column arrangement. I have the sealing washers, but no pilot adapters came with the kit. Do I really need those? The instructions that came with the compressor do not mention the washers at all.



What should I do?
RWDPLZ JUN 13, 11:45 PM
Post a picture of the hose end that mates to the compressor, and measure the diameter of the suction and discharge holes on the compressor.
computer_engineer JUN 14, 09:59 PM

quote
Originally posted by RWDPLZ:

Post a picture of the hose end that mates to the compressor, and measure the diameter of the suction and discharge holes on the compressor.



Will it hurt the system if I crack it open to get the photo you need? I have a new condenser, accumulator, and orifice to put it, but I may not be ready to install everything or flush the system for a week or so. There may be residual R-12 and R-134 left in the system (yeah, I know, a stupid mistake I made years ago), but I am pretty sure the system still has some pressure. Since the car has not moved for several years, while I have been re-assembling it after a clutch job (long story, there were several dozen other things I found that had to be repaired as well), I cannot take it to a service shop to evacuate the system properly. But while the engine is still tilted with the cradle, and access to the compressor is WAY easier, I have made the decision, wise or not, to disassemble the system, flush the parts I can, and replace the parts that you and others have recommended, that will hopefully give me the best chance of having a functioning A/C system, once the car is on all fours again, and running.

My plan is to mount the new compressor (new 4 Seasons), snug the belt (new), replace the condenser, the accumulator, and the orifice tube. Then flush all the lines and the evaporator, replace all the O-rings on every connection, then pour some oil in the accumulator, and the compressor, the seal everything up, and then pull a vacuum. If it holds for and hour or 2, or even longer, then I will consider the system good to go. But then things will have to wait until such time as I can get the car re-assembled, and the engine running. I will then re-charge the A/C with R-134, and get the A/C running. My plan is to have everything done, and the car back on the road this summer.

[This message has been edited by computer_engineer (edited 06-14-2020).]