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| Getrag transmission problem on low mileage Fiero GT (Page 7/17) |
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hnthomps
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NOV 12, 08:23 PM
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i just removed the transmission on an 87 without dropping the cradle at all or even pivoting it on the rear connectors. The procedure is basically the same as used by the Fiero Factory and I do not see any real reason why it should not work for an 88. I have some pictures if it would be helpful. BTW, the vehicle was on a hoist and that was a lot easier than trying this on jack stands IMHO.
Nelson
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Moar
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NOV 13, 01:17 AM
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Hi Nelson,
you are sure, transmission removal is also possible without pivoting or dropping the cradle? Please send us some pictures or post a link.
The pivoting method definitely also works on ´88 Fieros (see Patrick´s post). Basically I think there is not much difference betw. ´88 and pre-88 cradle mounting points (just w/o these stupid rubber bushings).
I´ll also remove all rear suspension components, because I want to de-rust and repaint these parts anyway.
BTW, I have a similar ramp like this in my garage: http://www.raceramps.com/po...e-pit-stop-ramp.aspx
Unfortunately my garage is too small for a hoist.
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hobbywrench
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NOV 13, 08:12 AM
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I don't recall the cradle removal being that difficult. I did not have a hoist.
Still wondering about the 24 inch pound drag in 1st only measured with a torque wrench . Poking around in the 85 factory manual I saw a value for the other 5 speed. The wording is vague, but "less than 7 inch pounds." It does not indicate if the value is measured in neutral, but is silent about a particular gear. If that is typical then my rebuild is OK, but still wondering why the extra drag in 1 st only? Teeth engagement?
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Moar
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NOV 13, 03:02 PM
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You have measured these values on the input shaft, right? 24 inch-pounds are approx. 3 Nm. 7 inch- pounds are less than 1 Nm - I don´t think that this is a realistic value. Furthermore, this 7 inch- pound reference value is useless unless we don´t know for which gear this specific value applies. It would be interesting to compare drag measurements for all gears (1,2,3,4,5).
BTW, rebuilding a spur gear transmission shouldn´t have any influence on gear meshing / teeth engagement. There are no bevel gears (except diff side and spider gears), therefore backlash cannot be adjusted. So I´m thinking that your "high" drag has something to do with bearing friction torque caused by high axial preloads or whatever. 
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Patrick
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NOV 13, 07:40 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by hnthomps:
i just removed the transmission on an 87 without dropping the cradle at all or even pivoting it on the rear connectors.
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???
Just to clarify one thing, the cradle pivots on the front mounts in order to lower the back of the cradle. Without lowering the cradle at all, I don't see how it's possible for the tranny to come out of there... unless everything is being pulled out the top.
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hobbywrench
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NOV 14, 01:15 PM
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Well, others with the 85 manual could read the 7 inch pound value for the Isuzu shaft rotation and interpret it for me. Since it is not specific to a gear it appears to me a neutral reading. Maybe I over reacted. The synchro action in this rebuild is very good shifting the "stub" by hand. I wonder if some of the interference fit press-on's (gears) might have just a slight "**** " which would relax once hot and run a while. The assembly involves a lot of pushing sharp edged gears onto somewhat softer ( I think) shafts. The Getrag manual warns to collect any metal slivers pared off. You guys really should try a rebuild.
Edit : Looks like the cloud censor did not like my word which is synonymous with the rooster.[This message has been edited by hobbywrench (edited 11-14-2015).]
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Moar
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NOV 24, 02:06 PM
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Can someone tell me if the axle stabilizer bearing # 75125LRB fits both sides? Most suppliers are stating that # 75125LRB is for passenger side only. Is there a reason for this or is this just wrong information?
Edit to add: Where I can get these stabilizer bearing for a reasonable price?[This message has been edited by Moar (edited 11-24-2015).]
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Moar
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NOV 26, 12:18 PM
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fieroguru has sent me a PM today with this interesting kind of stabilizer bearing: http://www.bulkpart.com/2/product/64090.html
Has someone tried these bushing style stabilizer bearings?
I think the seal is more reliable as the seal used for the needle bearing type axle stabilizers (more flexible OEM design). This is one advantage, but what about the bushing itself, is it reliable too?
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Moar
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JAN 01, 05:36 PM
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Gall757
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JAN 01, 09:30 PM
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It looks like the input shaft bearing is good......
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