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| My DIY rear Coil-over conversion (84 model)... play by play (Warning many pics) (Page 7/11) |
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Darth Fiero
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AUG 05, 03:43 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by redraif:
Ryan, Thank you!
And thank you for adding the additional info and sources. It helps to know there are better cost alternatives available. If I can edit my original post with part source info, do you mind if I insert your finds?
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Please feel free to update your original post with the new information.
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Patrick
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AUG 05, 05:02 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Darth Fiero:
I also bought some Energy Suspension 9.6118R upper spring pads (install between the spring and the upper strut plate) for $10.81 for the pair from Amazon.com as well.
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I've got Fiero Store lowering springs mounted on all four corners on my '88 Formula, but I don't feel the rear has dropped enough, and IMO none of the springs are quite stiff enough for autocross.
I have a question regarding the upper strut plate. Is it advisable with this modification to fabricate something to help keep the top of the springs centered within the upper strut plates? Or is the "nub" of the retainer plate (as shown below) sufficient when positioned within the top of the springs?
| quote | Originally posted by redraif:
now the top spring retainer plate. Flat side up!

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Darth Fiero
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AUG 05, 06:03 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
I've got Fiero Store lowering springs mounted on all four corners on my '88 Formula, but I don't feel the rear has dropped enough, and IMO none of the springs are quite stiff enough for autocross.
I have a question regarding the upper strut plate. Is it advisable with this modification to fabricate something to help keep the top of the springs centered within the upper strut plates? Or is the "nub" of the retainer plate (as shown below) sufficient when positioned within the top of the springs?
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The Energy Suspension 9.6118R poly spring pads will keep the coil over spring centered on and from rubbing on the metal parts of the upper strut mounting plate.[This message has been edited by Darth Fiero (edited 08-05-2014).]
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Patrick
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AUG 05, 06:22 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Darth Fiero:
The Energy Suspension 9.6118R poly spring pads will keep the coil over spring centered on and from rubbing on the metal parts of the upper strut mounting plate.
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Will that only occur if the "nub" of the top plate is facing downwards? In other words, do those pads rely on the "nub" being in the middle of them to help keep the springs centered?
As you're no doubt aware, the "nub" is often pointed upwards so as to return the strut to a more normalized position after the suspension has been lowered... as was discussed HERE. So I'm wondering if the top plates are installed in this manner, will the spring pads you recommended still keep the springs centered? It appears to me that it wouldn't still work if installed this way, so that's why I'm double-checking and asking all these questions.  [This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 08-05-2014).]
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Darth Fiero
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AUG 05, 07:09 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
Will that only occur if the "nub" of the top plate is facing downwards? In other words, do those pads rely on the "nub" being in the middle of them to help keep the springs centered?
As you're no doubt aware, the "nub" is often pointed upwards so as to return the strut to a more normalized position after the suspension has been lowered... as was discussed HERE. So I'm wondering if the top plates are installed in this manner, will the spring pads you recommended still keep the springs centered? It appears to me that it wouldn't still work if installed this way, so that's why I'm double-checking and asking all these questions. 
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The upper strut mounting plate "nub" is supposed to be installed facing down, not up. The poly spring pads center on that nub, and those pads center the spring.
That having been said, I suppose you could either glue the poly pad to the upside down strut mount to keep it centered OR you could search thru Energy Suspension's catalog and see if they make a spring pad that will center the coil-over spring off the strut rod itself (they have many different design and style spring pads they sell).[This message has been edited by Darth Fiero (edited 08-05-2014).]
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Patrick
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AUG 05, 07:36 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Darth Fiero:
The upper strut mounting plate "nub" is supposed to be installed facing down, not up.
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Oh... I know! However, there's a slight possibility that there is some benefit from flipping that plate over in regards to the strut's performance with a lowered suspension.
| quote | Originally posted by Darth Fiero:
The poly spring pads center on that nub, and those pads center the spring.
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Okay, that's what I suspected. Thanks for the clarification.
| quote | Originally posted by Darth Fiero:
That having been said, I suppose you could... search thru Energy Suspension's catalog and see if they make a spring pad that will center the coil-over spring off the strut rod itself (they have many different design and style spring pads they sell).
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Thanks Darth, I'll take a look. 
EDIT: I had a look at This page, but it appears there's nothing with a small enough center hole. Oh well, at least I know what's available.[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 08-05-2014).]
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Charlie1963
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AUG 08, 08:37 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Darth Fiero:
Nice write-up. I also wanted to share my recent DIY (on-the-cheap) coil-over mod with this thread.
The Coleman sleeve and adjuster kits mentioned in the OP aren't $101 for the pair anymore (they are now $137.98 for the pair) and they aren't always in stock at Jeg's. Instead, I found some Allstar ALL64143 sleeve kits from Amazon.com for $38.99 each (77.98 for the pair) which will fit over the KYB struts if you modify the sleeves themselves a bit (there are some raised portions inside the sleeve that need to be sanded down a bit - this can be done with a dremel and sandpaper roll).
I bought the 10" tall 325lb Summit springs for my Fiero ($83.94 for the pair).
I also bought some Energy Suspension 9.6118R upper spring pads (install between the spring and the upper strut plate) for $10.81 for the pair from Amazon.com as well.
You'll need to remove the stock jounce bumper (bump stop limiter) from your stock Fiero strut boots if you want to reuse them since the Fiero strut boots won't fit inside the 2.5" ID coil-over springs. If you want strut boots, the only thing I've found that will fit are the Bilstein "Service-7" blue strut boots sold here: http://www.maximummotorspor...over-strut-P975.aspx, but I don't think the OE Fiero jounce bumpers will fit inside these strut boots (but you can get some aftermarket ones if you want them).
My Fiero has a 3800 Series 2 Turbocharged V6 and 4T60-E automatic trans. The 325 lb rate springs seem to be a very good match for it offering much improved handling without hardly any loss of ride quality over a stock Fiero GT spring. I will admit the stock Fiero GT rear springs I was using seemed overloaded with the increased weight of my powertrain, which was producing an instability issue during hard cornering and evasive maneuvers at highway speeds.
-ryan
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Ryan, I purchased the Allstar ALL64143 sleeve kits and am working on putting them on my KYB struts. I've installed the sleeve, adjuster and spring but am wondering if I've got the other pieces in the correct order.
Is the order correct in the picture? Thanks

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Darth Fiero
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AUG 08, 10:24 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Charlie1963:
Ryan, I purchased the Allstar ALL64143 sleeve kits and am working on putting them on my KYB struts. I've installed the sleeve, adjuster and spring but am wondering if I've got the other pieces in the correct order.
Is the order correct in the picture? Thanks
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Everything looks like it is in the correct order in the picture you posted. However, I did not use the upper spring mount (cone shaped black item in your picture that mounts on the strut above the spring and jounce bumper) that came with the Allstar kit in my conversion. If you use the upper spring mount provided in the kit, you may experience increased ride height (especially if using 10" or taller springs) and you won't be able to use the Energy Suspension coil spring isolator pads.
You can also remove the factory upper spring perch that you have shown in your picture. All you need is the upper strut mounting plate. While the upper spring mounting plate does have mounting holes in it, you can tap in some 5/16" diameter carriage bolts so you won't have to worry about holding the heads of standard bolts with a wrench when you tighten down the strut plate to strut tower mounting nuts. You'll need 2x 1" long and 1x 1 1/2" long carriage bolts for each strut mounting plate. The longer bolt installs closest to the engine while the two shorter bolts install closest to the outer body panel. Make sure you get new nuts and washers as the factory nuts are metric and won't work with SAE threads.[This message has been edited by Darth Fiero (edited 08-08-2014).]
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Charlie1963
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AUG 09, 06:49 AM
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[/QUOTE]
Everything looks like it is in the correct order in the picture you posted. However, I did not use the upper spring mount (cone shaped black item in your picture that mounts on the strut above the spring and jounce bumper) that came with the Allstar kit in my conversion. If you use the upper spring mount provided in the kit, you may experience increased ride height (especially if using 10" or taller springs) and you won't be able to use the Energy Suspension coil spring isolator pads.
You can also remove the factory upper spring perch that you have shown in your picture. All you need is the upper strut mounting plate. While the upper spring mounting plate does have mounting holes in it, you can tap in some 5/16" diameter carriage bolts so you won't have to worry about holding the heads of standard bolts with a wrench when you tighten down the strut plate to strut tower mounting nuts. You'll need 2x 1" long and 1x 1 1/2" long carriage bolts for each strut mounting plate. The longer bolt installs closest to the engine while the two shorter bolts install closest to the outer body panel. Make sure you get new nuts and washers as the factory nuts are metric and won't work with SAE threads.
[/QUOTE]
Thank you!
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redraif
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SEP 15, 02:44 PM
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Went through and did a few cleans ups (grammer and spelling). Figure I would give it a bump. Maybe soon CarDomain will have a fix and I can get the rest of my writeups posted!
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