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| The Turbo 3500 F23 swap (Page 65/80) |
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Will
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APR 30, 03:20 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by zkhennings:
And finally I plan to send my torque wrenches back to CDI for cal before I start bolting my motor back together as it has been a few years since they were checked.
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Who's CDI? I've used Team Torque in North Dakota for a couple of mine.
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zkhennings
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APR 30, 08:19 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Will:
Who's CDI? I've used Team Torque in North Dakota for a couple of mine. |
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CDI is the manufacturer of SnapOn torque wrenches, or you can buy the CDI branded ones for less money. They calibrate for I think $44 a wrench unless they need to replace any parts. The price is dependent on the torque range though.
I don’t think I have any local small time calibration places near me, I asked our cal guy at work to quote me the recalibration of my torque wrenches and it was over $100 each so I figured I would ask the manufacturer. CDI may calibrate wrenches that are not CDI or SnapOn but I haven’t looked into it. Here is the link to the calibration site.
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ericjon262
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APR 30, 08:33 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by zkhennings:
Ah that blows. I was really hoping to see this finally get buttoned up. There are .002 oversized OD rod bearings for the LZ9, I would imagine for LX9 too. You could probably get the single rod bored out and run that bearing, but I think you would need to get the crank journal taken down so I don't know if that's worth it. Might be easiest to see if you can replace the single rod.
For what it is worth it is not very much money to have a machine shop verify all the clearances and make sure parts aren't twisted or out of spec. The machine shop I use will even measure my dirtbike cylinders for free and check them for straightness and out of round. Plastigage is another good tool to get a ballpark idea and just do a sanity check. And finally I plan to send my torque wrenches back to CDI for cal before I start bolting my motor back together as it has been a few years since they were checked.
That really sucks though I was very sad to see that this happened.
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it's bummer, but it is what it is, if I had more time, I would fix it right now, but it will have to wait until I move. the worst part is not knowing definitively why it happened. At this point I'm looking for a new short block, it will be faster, and easier to swap in than to rebuild this one. and if I snag a different cam, I won't need valve reliefs either, which is another plus that expedites things. my biggest concern at the moment, is if the increased piston travel due to the failed bearing damaged the head, then my ported heads will either need to be repaired or replaced. that said, I measured for and cut valve reliefs without head gaskets, so there should be ~.035" more clearance than I cut. not sure what piston to deck looked like, I don't remember measuring it, the cap side of the bearing was about 1/2 way into the rod end, so hopefully it was enough to squeak by. I potentially have a line on another short block already, it's already on the other side of the country, so that's a plus right?------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
cognita semper
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Will
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MAY 03, 08:52 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by zkhennings:
CDI is the manufacturer of SnapOn torque wrenches, or you can buy the CDI branded ones for less money. They calibrate for I think $44 a wrench unless they need to replace any parts. The price is dependent on the torque range though.
I don’t think I have any local small time calibration places near me, I asked our cal guy at work to quote me the recalibration of my torque wrenches and it was over $100 each so I figured I would ask the manufacturer. CDI may calibrate wrenches that are not CDI or SnapOn but I haven’t looked into it. Here is the link to the calibration site. |
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Awesome! Thanks!
I discovered that buying old/used/obsolete Snap-On torque "instruments" on eBay and having them calibrated is usually half or less the cost of buying a new instrument from Snap-On.
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ericjon262
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AUG 13, 10:28 PM
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I had a little issue with the garage at the new house...
there was about a 4" drop right at the edge of the garage by the door, the front end of the car bottomed out before the wheels would make it into the garage....
today I piled a bunch of dirt in front of the ledge, and ran over it a few times with this:
it's a beast, been super helpful for getting work done around the new place.
the car is finally back in a "garage".
There currently isn't power in the garage. I am going to start wiring it up, and for now, run it off of a generator until I can get power properly run to it, which will hopefully be soon.
some discussion with Ben at WOT-Tech suggests my camshaft leaves alot to be desired, he seems to think a slightly smaller cam should pick up a considerable amount of low end torque, with minimal/no loss to top end performance. My cam and timing set got here tuesday, and today, I went to the junkyard and picked up a new to me engine.
tomorrow, I plan to get it on an engine stand and start taking off everything I don't need.
of coarse, the ARP ultratorque I ordered came in looking like this too though, so I need to get amazon to send me a new one.
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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
cognita semper[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 08-13-2021).]
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La fiera
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AUG 18, 10:15 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by zkhennings:
And finally I plan to send my torque wrenches back to CDI for cal before I start bolting my motor back together as it has been a few years since they were checked.
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Me personally, I don't use Snap On for anyting that needs presice torquing. The two Snap On wrenches at the left are for wheels, valve covers, oil pans, etc. In other words things that dont need presice torque. Now, for my engines I ONLY use the two at the right. German tools. The high price I paid 10 years ago for these is worth their customer service. Free re calibration if needed and I send them to Germany every 5 years since I dont use them much but only on my engines and some loyal custumers high end cars.
Eric, It's a bummer what happened to your engine. I wish you the best luck on your quest to meet your goals! 
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Will
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AUG 19, 10:09 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by zkhennings:
And finally I plan to send my torque wrenches back to CDI for cal before I start bolting my motor back together as it has been a few years since they were checked.
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| quote | Originally posted by La fiera:
Me personally, I don't use Snap On for anyting that needs presice torquing. The two Snap On wrenches at the left are for wheels, valve covers, oil pans, etc. In other words things that dont need presice torque. Now, for my engines I ONLY use the two at the right. German tools. The high price I paid 10 years ago for these is worth their customer service. Free re calibration if needed and I send them to Germany every 5 years since I dont use them much but only on my engines and some loyal custumers high end cars.
Eric, It's a bummer what happened to your engine. I wish you the best luck on your quest to meet your goals! |
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What brands are they?[This message has been edited by Will (edited 08-19-2021).]
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La fiera
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AUG 19, 01:38 PM
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ericjon262
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AUG 19, 06:39 PM
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snap on is good enough for submarine QA work, so it's good enough for me. ------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
cognita semper
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Will
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AUG 20, 10:04 PM
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You can pick up an old Snap-On for $50-100 on eBay, then send it off to be repaired/calibrated for $80 and save >$200 off retail...
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