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| Fabricating Custom Knuckles with plate steel (Page 6/7) |
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zkhennings
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JUL 27, 02:08 PM
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fieroguru
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JUL 27, 07:30 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by zkhennings:
This dude has some good tips for producing custom knuckles.
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He was fun to watch!
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wftb
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JUL 28, 12:06 PM
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I agree I enjoyed that video. Early on in the thread I posted some pics of my first attempt at making an upper rear control arm. I abandoned that design for obvious reasons, and thought I would post a link to my bumpsteer bracket thread showing what I ended up putting in the car:
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/134732.html
As for custom made knuckles, look up the thread in the construction zone by CCfiero350 https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum3/HTML/000094.html I do not think he ever finished the car but there are links to Coppertop's website who also made custom knuckles.[This message has been edited by wftb (edited 07-30-2021).]
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zkhennings
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JUL 28, 01:29 PM
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He has some cool builds. I like his idea to have tabs laser cut into the parts as well as undersizing all the laser cut holes for drilling in post.
Have any of you guys messed around with trying to get more steering angle? Back when I would take the Fiero drifting in the snow on studded tires it was very controllable right until running out of steering angle if the back stepped out a little too much. I would probably implement a shorter steering arm if I fabbed knuckles for the front of the car to get some more angle as well as quicken the steering.
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Will
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JUL 28, 03:12 PM
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Well elsewhere since the last time this thread came up...
| quote | Originally posted by Will:
Making progress on my fabbed hub carriers:
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Patrick
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JUL 28, 03:51 PM
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Not only is this guy a fabrication wizard, but he's got a great sense of humor as well. 
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zkhennings
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JUL 28, 04:51 PM
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I have mostly followed along with your rear knuckle parking brake big bearing journey Will, very creative work. Do you have your multi-link setup planned out yet? Edit to say it looks like you will use the stock lower arm from a pre 88 with a toe link in line with the ball joint's axis. Nice. Do you think it will control unwanted toe change as effectively as a trailing link setup? I have been debating that myself.
"ID-10T Use Only" Lol[This message has been edited by zkhennings (edited 07-28-2021).]
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Will
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JUL 28, 08:19 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by zkhennings:
He has some cool builds. I like his idea to have tabs laser cut into the parts as well as undersizing all the laser cut holes for drilling in post.
Have any of you guys messed around with trying to get more steering angle? Back when I would take the Fiero drifting in the snow on studded tires it was very controllable right until running out of steering angle if the back stepped out a little too much. I would probably implement a shorter steering arm if I fabbed knuckles for the front of the car to get some more angle as well as quicken the steering.
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I've used "self-fixturing" tabs extensively on the engine & diff mounts I made for my dad's AMC Eagle with SBC.
Also, lasers are sufficiently accurate that you don't gain anything by deliberately undersizing and then drilling the holes. In my experience, laser cut holes should actually be oversized slightly in order to end up on-size, but that's dependent on how your particular laser is tuned and the thickness of material it's cutting. Even an on-size laser cut hole is likely to need a quick run-through with a drill if it's intended to be a close fit.
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Will
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JUL 28, 08:25 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by zkhennings:
I have mostly followed along with your rear knuckle parking brake big bearing journey Will, very creative work. Do you have your multi-link setup planned out yet? Edit to say it looks like you will use the stock lower arm from a pre 88 with a toe link in line with the ball joint's axis. Nice. Do you think it will control unwanted toe change as effectively as a trailing link setup? I have been debating that myself.
"ID-10T Use Only" Lol
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I'm going to stick with struts for a bit... Well designed struts can work just fine. I have too many things on my plate, but have ideas for a fabbed cradle that would allow better optimization of the strut geometry.
The toe link will be in plane with the control arm, but relative to the ball joint, it has to match the plan-view angle of the control arm inner pivots. I'll get that angle from some CMM work on the cradle, but have been focused on other things.
One thing I have done is lower the ball joint in order to raise the rear roll center.
Controlling unwanted toe change just requires having reasonably decent geometry and hard pivots. Suspension design is more about not screwing much up than it is about getting everything right.[This message has been edited by Will (edited 08-01-2021).]
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zkhennings
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JUL 29, 03:34 PM
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(Edit to say black is the cradle, pink is the moving parts, knuckle not pictured)
Is this what you mean? Basically the toe link and the control arm are parallel and the same lengths with parallel axis of motion both at the knuckle and the subframe. A rectangle.
Because I think this would work well, it would almost act like the control arm is both the front lateral link and the trailing link, while the toe link is an equal length rear lateral link, keeping the wheel from changing toe even if the control arm bushings do allow for a little movement, I know you are running spherical bushings though.
Subaru Group N bushings may be a good candidate for a custom control arm without going full spherical bearing, they are essentially spherical bearings with a small amount of stiff rubber. They are the bushings Subaru installs in their rally cars, and I have them in the suspension of my WRX and they feel very tight. They are much harsher than the stock bushings, but a lot less harsh than spherical bearings.[This message has been edited by zkhennings (edited 07-29-2021).]
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