
 |
| 84 fieor-- 94 N* swap (Page 6/24) |
|
IXSLR8
|
DEC 31, 02:41 PM
|
|
I actually prefer the Cometic metal gaskets because they don't deteriorate like the stock GM head gaskets.
When I cleaned up the decks and inserted with Norm's units, both of my OEM N*'s(120K & 60K miles) head gaskets had serious deterioration at the various cylinder coolant spaces. I think the Metal head gaskets are superior and worthy of purchase just on that aspect. Not required by any means but I think you get a longer shelf life with using them.[This message has been edited by IXSLR8 (edited 12-31-2014).]
|
|
|
IXSLR8
|
DEC 31, 02:42 PM
|
|
|
Get a steel clutch pedal from a later Fiero. They don't usually bend like the aluminum ones.
|
|
|
mcfrandon
|
DEC 31, 08:32 PM
|
|
Looks like im just going to go with the the timeserts and felpro headgaskets for now, besides you can rent the timesert tools for $80 which is very cool. Im going to pick and pull portland tomorrow, ill see what they have for clutch pedals. last time i was there they had 3 fieros at one yard hahaaha
|
|
|
IXSLR8
|
JAN 01, 07:49 PM
|
|
|
|
mcfrandon
|
JAN 04, 01:55 PM
|
|
|
hopefully I will be able to get the engine back out today. I will take a look at the headgaskets and see what they look like. From what I saw there it looks like the mls would be a good investment. heck for all i know this block could be in great condition, i really know nothing about it
|
|
|
IXSLR8
|
JAN 04, 09:10 PM
|
|
You can really only guess the condition of your engine if you haven't driven it much, don't know the mileage, haven't done a compression check or had the heads off.
Most of the N*'s under 120K are probably just fine. It seems to be around the 120K mark that the head pulling issue starts to display itself (overheating, loosing coolant). A very high percentage are fixable with redoing the head bolt holes. Chances are that yours is a good engine. Clean up the head bolt holes and give it some good head gaskets and you should have great insurance with regard to longevity and performance. These engines are cheap to acquire...but have expensive parts and are a little unique to work on. But I think its worth it in the long-term.
|
|
|
mcfrandon
|
JAN 05, 01:55 AM
|
|
yeah these engines are super easy to get ahold of around here. I didnt get the engine out today i had some other work to do. on the MLS headgaskets, what is the thickness to go with? so many options.. i wouldn't mind a little higher compression as well with a thinner gasket
|
|
|
Will
|
JAN 05, 08:40 PM
|
|
Go as thin as you want, just keep your piston to head clearance in the .035 to .040 range and it'll run liked a raped ape.
IIRC, stock it's about .060. You don't have to worry about detonation. I run 11.5:1 compression on pump gas.[This message has been edited by Will (edited 01-05-2015).]
|
|
|
mcfrandon
|
JAN 05, 09:31 PM
|
|
|
haha sounds cool. If i decided to seal the lower halfcase i would need to replace the main bearings and oil plate too correct? I feel it would almost be foolish not do seal the halfcase if im sealing the pan and the engine will be out
|
|
|
IXSLR8
|
JAN 05, 11:44 PM
|
|
Yes, do the case half's when you have it out. It will clean up the common oil seeping/leaking if yours is leaking. If your bearings are good, you can continue to use them. Just get a new oil manifold.
Make sure you use a high zinc oil in your block especially for the cams/lifters.
|
|

 |