Neil's Aventador build (Page 50/74) RCR DEC 14, 07:35 PM quote Originally posted by Neils88: Bob....you must have realized by now that I don't seem to learn anything... LOL. You and me both. Bob Neils88 DEC 15, 07:02 PM I was able to get the OEM tail lights lit up properly today. I was a little worried about these since the brake lights and turn lights are LEDs, and without being able to open up the housing, I had no idea how they were connected, just had a bundle of black wires coming out of it... Anyway. I have it all figured out now. The reference below is really for anyone else who wants to hook up the OEM Aventador tail lights. I've cut off the connector since I won't easily be able to get the matching piece. I'll just buy some weatherproof automotive connectors and hook everything back up. The number scheme I'm using matches the numbers that are stamped on the OEM connector... First off, here's the OEM tail light with everything off. The first two lights were normal light bulbs, so these were easy to figure out. The red light on the inner corner... (#1 = 12V; #8 = Gnd) Anyone know what this light is for? Reverse light (white)... (#2 = 12V; Other wire = Gnd Note this other wire connects into the bundle of LED wires, not the connector. After cutting the wire, I labeled both sides as #7, since it's connected to #7 internally, which ends up being the ground wire) The rest of the lights are LEDs and need to use an LED driver. The LED driver I'm using uses 12V input, plus a PWM signal to determine the brightness (constant current output). I created the PWM using an Arduino. A few lines of code are all that are needed to set up the PWM signal. I'm only using this for testing, and don't plan on using this in the final set up. Here's the actual LED driver (LE-LL31XV110 Converter). They are quite small and cheap. I think this one cost me $3 on eBay a couple of years ago. Turn signal... (#7 = Gnd; #5 = LED driver output + ) First two brake light chevrons... (#7 = Gnd; #4 = LED driver output + ) Third brake light chevron... (#7 = Gnd; #3 = LED driver output + ) All three brake light chevrons together... (#7 = Gnd; #3 & #4 = LED driver output + ) The next step will be determining the exact driver requirements to set the brake lights either at their low (marker light) setting, or the higher power brake light setting. I'll post the actual current requirements for each brightness setting later once I actually figure them out. Neils88 DEC 17, 11:01 PM I've ordered the watertight automotive connectors that I need for all the lights. I'll also have to find a replacement LED driver since the one I was using doesn't seem to be made anymore, and I will need a few of them. While I'm waiting to get all that, I've switched my focus back to another item that has been holding up the final installation of all the panels. I need to design and install a connection system that connects all the door latch cables to the latch mechanism. This sounds trivial...but of course it's not... Neils88 DEC 23, 04:53 PM I spent a few days designing a connection mechanism to link the various latch and lock components. After getting a working prototype together, I took a long look at it and tossed it away. I really wasn't happy with it. It was bulky and didn't operate smoothly. I went back to the drawing board and redesigned everything. I've put together the first part of it for the driver's side (seen in the pic below). The first part connects the interior lock toggle to the manual key, and to the lock cable on the actual latch (the cable isn't attached yet). I'll repeat this with a similar piece that will connect the interior door handle, exterior handle and the electric door popper solenoid to the release cable of the latch. Neils88 JAN 07, 11:44 PM I didn't get much done over the last few weeks (enjoying some time with my family over the holidays), but finally got back to it today. I have the driver's side door latch system almost completed now. Still two things remain...the final linkage bar to the lock control cable and connecting the exterior manual release handle. Unfortunately the exterior manual release handle has been causing some problems. No matter what I do to connect it, it seems to bind. The connector cable should sit next to the interior handle cable, but for some reason it just doesn't work. I'm running out of options with it. I'm also considering replacing the door poppers. I ordered some 45 lb poppers, but they had sent me 100 lb poppers instead. In reality I only need less than 10 lb poppers since the latch mechanism works really well. The large ones are incredibly loud when they operate, so I'm hoping I can find something that is both quite and reliable. RCR JAN 08, 09:28 AM Good lord, that looks complicated. Well done, Neil. Bob Neils88 JAN 08, 06:42 PM quote Originally posted by RCR: Good lord, that looks complicated. Well done, Neil. Bob Thanks Bob! My plan is always to make things as complicated as possible. It actually looks worse than it is as a result of the flash. That sorta makes all the parts of the lock/latch mechanism blur together, therefore making it tough to figure out what is what. The downside in this case is getting this all bits and pieces to work together when there is no "off-the-shelf" bolt on solution. Neils88 JAN 13, 10:18 PM Almost finished the lock / latch connection system (driver's side only). I added the linkage to the lock cable. Here's a summary of the functionality: 1. Interior door handle. Connected and works well. 2. Interior door lock. Connected and functional, but cable end needs to be attached a little better to the lock pivot linkage. 3. Exterior door handle (electric release switch on door connected to solenoid). Solenoid (also called a "popper") connected and works well...but too noisy. Will replace with a quieter solenoid. 4. Power door locks (unit built into latch, not seen in pic). System is connected and tested, but final wiring not complete yet. 5. Key (emergency use lock control). Connected, but linkage bar is a little too flimsy. Unlock works well, but linkage sometimes flexes a bit too much when using key to lock door. I'll change to a stiffer linkage. 6. Exterior door handle (emergency use latch release). Not connected yet. 4 different attempts all failed. I may have to get a different handle or cable. Progress on this has been slow...but steady. Still needs the one connection and a few tweaks, but I'm happy with the overall result. Neils88 JAN 14, 08:30 PM I replaced the key linkage-rod with a 1/8" steel rod. The original was thinner than 1/8" with a plastic coating that made up the difference; hence was not quite rigid enough when in compression (fine when in tension). The new linkage-rod stays rigid regardless of which was the key is turned...no buckling. It feels nice and solid. Neils88 JAN 22, 08:39 PM It's been a quiet week. I've been staring at the exterior door handle and may know why I can't get it to work with the current configuration. With the help of a friend of mine this weekend, we cleaned the garage substantially (thanks Craig! ) and then investigated the problem. The cable used for the exterior door handle is made with a solid (i.e. single) cable. It looks like a solid cable is prone to binding in the sleeve whenever the cable isn't straight. Multi-stranded cable (aircraft cable) doesn't appear to have this problem. I'm going to replace the solid cable with a multi-stranded cable (keeping the existing sleeve) and hook it back up using the first connection method that I had rigged up. Fingers crossed that this solves the binding issue.