88 suspension work (Page 5/6)
hunter29 JUN 14, 06:38 AM

quote
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:

yeah they have you the wrong bolts. wonder why? also any locknut as long as it's above grade 5 is fine. shoot for 8 and you'll be golden.
did your joints require a 4 foot breaker bar to move? mine did after bolting them in to line them up with the knuckle and I don't think they are supposed to be quite that tight



Mine came out ok, I returned all the ball joints and tie ends and bought better. I screwed that up big time.

Say when putting the control arms back the bolt go in dry, no lubricant right ? Top and bottom?
cartercarbaficionado JUN 14, 07:59 AM

quote
Originally posted by hunter29:


Mine came out ok, I returned all the ball joints and tie ends and bought better. I screwed that up big time.

Say when putting the control arms back the bolt go in dry, no lubricant right ? Top and bottom?


correct. the only lube is supposed to be on the outside of the inner sleeve is what my instructions said. I did grease the face of my bushings very very lightly to make the lower slot into the frame easier since my bushings from prothane were ~1.5mm too wide fully bottomed out (so properly installed) so a hammer could actually get them in at that point
now if it's the ball joint pinch bolt style it's dry threads as well as for 99 percent of the suspension
hunter29 JUN 14, 08:30 AM

quote
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:

correct. the only lube is supposed to be on the outside of the inner sleeve is what my instructions said. I did grease the face of my bushings very very lightly to make the lower slot into the frame easier since my bushings from prothane were ~1.5mm too wide fully bottomed out (so properly installed) so a hammer could actually get them in at that point
now if it's the ball joint pinch bolt style it's dry threads as well as for 99 percent of the suspension



Outside of inner sleeve? I installed stock rubber bushings so whatever your talking about doesn't apply to me?
cartercarbaficionado JUN 14, 09:21 AM

quote
Originally posted by hunter29:


Outside of inner sleeve? I installed stock rubber bushings so whatever your talking about doesn't apply to me?


pretty much yeah. just don't get grease on the threads
hunter29 JUN 14, 10:49 AM

quote
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:

pretty much yeah. just don't get grease on the threads



Thanks for your help, I installed the upper control arm, if I try to torque it to 66# it binds and will not move. I used the factory 6mm spacers.

I'm not understanding this, what should move with control arm and what should not ?

[This message has been edited by hunter29 (edited 06-14-2024).]

Yellow-88 JUN 14, 11:04 AM

quote
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:

dm me that parts list. might be interesting to try once I swap 88 stuff into my 87 gt project. or when a formula is cheap nearby since I wanna try a high revving carbed 2.8l with some more neutral handling suspension so I can push it harder and have slightly more chamber gain through a corner since it will be a weekend track car especially since I'm using some honda transmission parts to try prototyping a dog box style synchro so I can slap the gears and shift at much higher rpm. of course thats assuming the stock 5 speed survives me to begin with



Other than the rod ends, it's a material list. This mod requires both welding and machining skills. I got everything from McMaster carr. UHMW polyethylene and bronze oilite for the front control arm bearings. DOM tubing for the lateral links and high durometer neoprene for the isolation mounts. The rod ends are SS and Teflon.

88 cradles into an 87 monocoque can be done but not at all easily. You'll defiantly need welding and fabrication skills.

88 Formulas are getting rare and in my opinion should be "saved" for serious car collectors or those who understand what they are. Yellow started as an 88 base coup for that reason. I personally believe that there is "ethics" involved in this kind of car stuff.
Yellow-88 JUN 14, 11:53 AM

quote
Originally posted by hunter29:


Thanks for your help, I installed the upper control arm, if I try to torque it to 66# it binds and will not move. I used the factory 6mm spacers.

I'm not understanding this, what should move with control arm and what should not ?





The control arm moves by twisting the rubber bushings. Human strength will be hard to move it very far. They are bushings not bearings. The bushing doesn't actually rotate around anything like a bearing around a shaft. it just twists the rubber.
cartercarbaficionado JUN 14, 06:32 PM

quote
Originally posted by Yellow-88:


Other than the rod ends, it's a material list. This mod requires both welding and machining skills. I got everything from McMaster carr. UHMW polyethylene and bronze oilite for the front control arm bearings. DOM tubing for the lateral links and high durometer neoprene for the isolation mounts. The rod ends are SS and Teflon.

88 cradles into an 87 monocoque can be done but not at all easily. You'll defiantly need welding and fabrication skills.

88 Formulas are getting rare and in my opinion should be "saved" for serious car collectors or those who understand what they are. Yellow started as an 88 base coup for that reason. I personally believe that there is "ethics" involved in this kind of car stuff.


there's one for 800 dollars with a clean title nearby I wish I had the cash for. also one in Oregon with a 3800 swap for the same price
hunter29 JUN 14, 09:08 PM

quote
Originally posted by Yellow-88:

The control arm moves by twisting the rubber bushings. Human strength will be hard to move it very far. They are bushings not bearings. The bushing doesn't actually rotate around anything like a bearing around a shaft. it just twists the rubber.



Yes , I understand this now, thanks for the reply.
Yellow-88 JUN 15, 10:08 AM

quote
Originally posted by Yellow-88:

The control arm moves by twisting the rubber bushings. Human strength will be hard to move it very far. They are bushings not bearings. The bushing doesn't actually rotate around anything like a bearing around a shaft. it just twists the rubber.



I forgot to tell you and I hope I'm not to late. Stock rubber bushings need to be tightened with the control arms at or near the normal ride height. The rubber needs to be NOT twisted with the car sitting on all fours. When the control arms move up, the rubber twists one way and when they move down they twist the other way. Their relaxed at normal ride height.