Wiped Cam Lobe? What are my options? (Page 5/7) tnkgnr JUN 05, 08:08 PM Well - put a new camshaft and lifters in; Comp Cams 260H. Using a caliper on the old one, the lobes varied between 38mm and 40mm so it seems there was some wear. Car pulls even better than it did before on acceleration, but I still have the bucking issue when trying to maintain a constant speed Any ideas left out there? greenturnedblue JUN 05, 10:44 PM What kind of shape is the ignition system in? ignition coil, distributor (including icm module, short coil-to-distributor wire and pickup coil and distributor itself, rotor, cap, spark plug wires, plugs etc. tnkgnr JUN 05, 10:57 PM quote Originally posted by greenturnedblue: What kind of shape is the ignition system in? ignition coil, distributor (including icm module, short coil-to-distributor wire and pickup coil and distributor itself, rotor, cap, spark plug wires, plugs etc. Immaculate - new ignition coil that tests good, new distributor (included pickup coil/rotor/cap/ICM), new plug wires, new plugs gapped to .045. Every sensor reads as it should. All motor mounts are fresh. I wonder if my lack of EGR be causing this somehow, considering my bucking issue only occurs during low-load situations. PhatMax JUN 05, 10:59 PM Did it have the problem before the removal of the EGR ? If I remember correctly doesn’t the EGR operate in the problem areas you described… greenturnedblue JUN 05, 11:43 PM OK great -- what about the small coil to dizzy wire? Its right next to the exhaust manifold and is a common point of failure due to the heat. Maybe someone who knows more can chime in but perhaps the connection becomes erratic when it heats up and leads to a sputtering ignition system. You can test by taking it out, and hooking up a multimeter set to amps to each end. twist and bend the wire, if the ohms stay at no resistance the wire is fine but if it fluctuates then you know the cable intermittently has continuity problems. Looks like youve covered anything else so this last check should rule out the entire ignition system you are probably already aware but this article really helped me out when I was troubleshooting a similar problem http://www.fieros.de/en/articles/ignition.html Have you looked at the fuel filter? or clogged cat? greenturnedblue JUN 06, 12:21 AM quote Originally posted by PhatMax: Did it have the problem before the removal of the EGR ? If I remember correctly doesn’t the EGR operate in the problem areas you described… Maybe if the Y pipe block plate is leaking its letting air into the exhaust stream, and confusing the O2 sensor tnkgnr JUN 06, 07:07 PM quote Originally posted by greenturnedblue: OK great -- what about the small coil to dizzy wire? Its right next to the exhaust manifold and is a common point of failure due to the heat. Maybe someone who knows more can chime in but perhaps the connection becomes erratic when it heats up and leads to a sputtering ignition system. You can test by taking it out, and hooking up a multimeter set to amps to each end. twist and bend the wire, if the ohms stay at no resistance the wire is fine but if it fluctuates then you know the cable intermittently has continuity problems. Looks like youve covered anything else so this last check should rule out the entire ignition system Have you looked at the fuel filter? or clogged cat? Yea, that stubby wire came with the new plug wires, but confirmed the very low resistance across it with an ohm meter just now in a variety of different bendy ways. Fuel filter is pretty new - only a few hundred miles on it. But if it was an issue, my problems would extend to points when I need more fuel, but my acceleration is great, it's the low-load situation that haunts this car. Cat should be good (about three years old). I've had a clogged one before and this isn't it. tnkgnr JUN 06, 07:25 PM quote Originally posted by PhatMax: Did it have the problem before the removal of the EGR ? If I remember correctly doesn’t the EGR operate in the problem areas you described… When I got the car it had no EGR and there was no issue. I added the EGR system back to the car (and got rid of my code 32). At some point the solenoid went bad, so just disconnected/plugged the system. I'm not sure if the two are related since it's not clear when the solenoid went bad. greenturnedblue JUN 06, 10:51 PM Last idea I could possibly think of is the idle adjustment screw is out of whack. When the throttle is open it's getting plenty of air so there are no problems. But when the throttle is closed/cracked open, there is enough of a discrepancy between actual and commanded airflow to cause hesitation and jerking. The idle adjustment screw shouldn't be adjusted ever as far as I know but there is a procedure to set it back to factory setting. Should be easy to find with a Google search. Even if it doesn't fix your problem it will at least rule one more thing out fieroguru JUN 07, 05:52 AM Sounds like you have a lean misfire on one cylinder. It will only show up at idle or cruise. It is small enough that the other cylinders are being commanded richer and compensating for the extra oxygen in the exhaust w/o tripping a check engine light. Likely causes: Partially clogged injector. Intake gasket leak letting making a single cylinder lean.