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| What do I need for replacing a water pump? (Page 5/8) |
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creaky78
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MAY 10, 09:03 AM
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If there is a lot of crud in the hole, give the tap a few turns, back it out, flush and repeat to get all the trash out.
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fierofool
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MAY 10, 10:03 AM
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It will break everything loose and collect in the fluting of the tap. Some will come out when you remove the tap, but if you flush and blow as creaky78 describes, you will be good.
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Cliff Pennock
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MAY 13, 05:13 AM
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For future reference:
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Cliff Pennock
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MAY 13, 07:02 AM
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BTW, I'm still waiting for the torque wrench I ordered last week. Until then, I will not be able to install the waterpump.
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fierosound
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MAY 13, 09:05 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:
BTW, I'm still waiting for the torque wrench I ordered last week. Until then, I will not be able to install the waterpump. |
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Bolt 4 goes into the water jacket of the block. Don't forget sealant in the threads. 
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css9450
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MAY 13, 09:14 AM
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Bolt 8 must be a little camera shy?
But seriously... I remember Bolt 8 because on mine, I couldn't figure how to bust loose the pulley bolts, so I just left it on. Then, when it came to to remove Bolt 8, I found it was hiding there behind the pulley! I eventually got it our with a Hex bit I turned with a 1/4-inch wrench. Fortunately it wasn't super tight (or stripped)!
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Cliff Pennock
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MAY 13, 09:32 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by css9450:
Bolt 8 must be a little camera shy? |
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Bolt 8 apparently was sheared off at some time on my water pump. That's why it is missing. There's still part of it extending out of the timing cover. I'm guessing it's the same bolt as 2, 9 and 11.
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Cliff Pennock
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MAY 13, 09:39 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by fierosound:
Bolt 4 goes into the water jacket of the block. Don't forget sealant in the threads.  |
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Yes, that's the only bolt that needs sealant, right?
I have this stuff for that: https://www.henkel-adhesive...ers/loctite_243.html
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Patrick
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MAY 13, 04:05 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:
I'm still waiting for the torque wrench I ordered last week. Until then, I will not be able to install the waterpump.
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IMO, a torque wrench isn't necessary for a job of this sort. As a matter fact, it might even be detrimental. If it's a "click" type torque wrench, and you're relying on hearing that "click" before you stop tightening, it's very easy to screw up and over-tighten... especially if you're using a ft lb torque wrench when an in lb torque wrench would be more appropriate. You definitely don't want to over-tighten those small bolts that thread into the aluminum timing cover. It would be safe to use a 3/8" drive ratchet on all these bolts, but just go easier on the four smaller bolts. Remember, you're not tightening lug nuts or head bolts!
| quote | Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:
Bolt 8 apparently was sheared off at some time on my water pump. There's still part of it extending out of the timing cover.
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Is there enough protruding to get ahold of it with vice-grips? If so, this would be a good time to soak it with penetrating oil (not WD-40) and try to get it out.
| quote | Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:
#4 is the only bolt that needs sealant, right? I have this stuff for that.
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Personally, I wouldn't use thread "lock" on any of the water pump bolts. I'd use anti-seize on all of them except for the one that goes into the water jacket.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-13-2024).]
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Dennis LaGrua
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MAY 13, 04:27 PM
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To remove a stud is sometimes a tricky process. You must be very careful not to use excessive pressure so that rusty bolt or what remains of it doesn't break off in the timing cover. Soak in PB Blaster for a couple of days, then grab with vice grips as Patrick indicated, and try to unscrew it. If you tap the stud head a few times with a hammer not too hard that can help. If you are dealing with heavily rusted bolt, the key is to not use excessive force. If the stud breaks off you will have another set of problems
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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