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| Does flipping over the strut top mounting plate change the Fiero's rear height? (Page 5/6) |
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fieroguru
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JAN 29, 09:25 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by pmbrunelle:
When flipping the strut plate, the bottom surface of the bump stop moves up as well.
Does this create the potential for the tire to hit/rub the plastic wheel well liner, or perhaps other issues? 84-87 toe-link hitting the frame rail? My Fiero is covered in snow; can't look now. |
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Tire rubbing is largely dependent diameter and width of tire and offset of wheel. If the wheel/tire combo is close to stock, tires should not nub. Wider/taller tires likely will. This is less of an issue with the 88's as the 88 knuckle is taller (from wheel center), so you reach the end of strut travel with the wheel further from the underside
Tie tie rod link will likely interfere with the frame rail. On page 18 of Will's thread he cycles his 84-87 suspension to full compression w/o any springs or bump stops and the strut hat in stock orientation, the tire rod is about 1/8 from the frame. The flange and rail could be trimmed slightly for additional clearance.
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pmbrunelle
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JAN 29, 09:46 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by fieroguru:
Tie tie rod link will likely interfere with the frame rail. On page 18 of Will's thread he cycles his 84-87 suspension to full compression w/o any springs or bump stops and the strut hat in stock orientation, the tire rod is about 1/8 from the frame. The flange and rail could be trimmed slightly for additional clearance. |
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That's good info, thanks for finding it.
Flipping a KYB strut plate will move the strut rod up by ~1.050".
Probably with the right bumpstop the toe link can be kept far enough away from the frame rail notch.
I suppose that without a spring, if the rear of the car is jacked up via the knuckle (the entire rear end weight squishing one bumpstop) that would represent a worst-case bumpstop squish.[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 01-29-2022).]
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fieroguru
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JAN 30, 09:30 AM
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With the sway bar disconnected (if you have one) and no spring, it is quite easy to cycle to the suspension to full compression. While it is there, you might as well put the trans in neutral and spin the wheels by hand to check for Tripot binding. As you maximize the limits of suspension travel, tripot clearance becomes more important to check. Especially if you like to lower the drivetrain as low as possible in the chassis.
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wilberto
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JAN 30, 12:21 PM
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I did a complete new suspension on my 85 GT, rebodied as a 308. Bushings, rear struts, shocks and Eibach springs. I flipped the strut towers before installing new springs and it lowered my rear suspension about .5" I do have more travel as well, no bottoming out. The springs are what lowered it the most. I also installed 2" wheel spacers in front and 2 3/8" wheel spacers in the rear to give it the proper stance. I wasn't thinking about handling when I did the wheel spacers but...WOW. Unbelievable handling, like a rally car, Very tight and responsive.
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Patrick
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JAN 30, 04:03 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by wilberto:
I flipped the strut towers before installing new springs and it lowered my rear suspension about .5"... The springs are what lowered it the most.
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For clarification... it was just the new springs that lowered your suspension. Flipping over the top mounting plates played no part in lowering the suspension.
| quote | Originally posted by wilberto:
I also installed 2" wheel spacers in front and 2 3/8" wheel spacers in the rear to give it the proper stance.
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It's possible that using spacers of that thickness contributes to lowering the car as well, as the wheels being pushed out by that distance changes suspension geometry, leverage on the springs etc. Maybe fieroguru could comment on this.[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 01-30-2022).]
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wilberto
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FEB 02, 08:43 AM
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If you read my post, I said I flipped the strut towers before installing the springs and it lowered the car by .5". I can't be more clear on that.
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Will
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FEB 02, 09:27 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by fieroguru:
Tire rubbing is largely dependent diameter and width of tire and offset of wheel. If the wheel/tire combo is close to stock, tires should not nub. Wider/taller tires likely will. This is less of an issue with the 88's as the 88 knuckle is taller (from wheel center), so you reach the end of strut travel with the wheel further from the underside
Tie tie rod link will likely interfere with the frame rail. On page 18 of Will's thread he cycles his 84-87 suspension to full compression w/o any springs or bump stops and the strut hat in stock orientation, the tire rod is about 1/8 from the frame. The flange and rail could be trimmed slightly for additional clearance.
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https://www.fiero.nl/forum/.../000121-21.html#p817
Bump stop removed; measurements taken at metal-to-metal contact between the gland nut of the Koni strut and the dished washer underneath the strut top mount.
Tire pictured is 285/30-18 on a C5 Corvette 18x9.5 Conestoga (61mm offset) with a 1" spacer/adapter.
Flipping the top mount and installing a bump stop would result in a bit more wheel travel possible, but the tire would definitely rub the fender on large excursions.
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jjd2296
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FEB 02, 12:18 PM
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Not sure if this was previously mentioned, but why not just install the tie rod end to the bottom of the knuckle rather than on the top to compensate for the additional height as a result of the kyb strut plate being upside-down? [This message has been edited by jjd2296 (edited 02-02-2022).]
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pmbrunelle
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FEB 02, 01:11 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Will:
Flipping the top mount and installing a bump stop would result in a bit more wheel travel possible, but the tire would definitely rub the fender on large excursions.
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Assuming I install the spring with the same preload (1/4") in both cases (standard/flipped), the coilover assembly will provide exactly the same compression/droop travel relative to the resting position.
So the main difference between standard/flipped would be a ~1" difference in ride height.
Standard:
Car CG a bit higher, less risk of rubbing things
Flipped:
Car CG a bit lower, more risk of rubbing things
Next spring/summer I will check which alternative I prefer by cycling the suspension with my tire of choice.
My main focus is to make my Fiero easy to drive / predictable, while not having the highest limits. If I lose a bit of grip because its CG is higher, I won't cry over that.
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Will
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FEB 02, 01:41 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by jjd2296:
Not sure if this was previously mentioned, but why not just install the tie rod end to the bottom of the knuckle rather than on the top to compensate for the additional height as a result of the kyb strut plate being upside-down?
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That would require using a tapered reamer to cut the correct taper into the knuckle and would create large amounts of bump steer.
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